Recommendations, please - Half inch hammer drill

[paulwestski]

My favorite is the Bosch bulldog line. they're pretty much a dedicated hammer drill. Cost about $250.00. They use the SDS shank bit. Have three functions, Hammer drill, Chisel only function, Drill no hammer. You can buy a jacobs chuck for them that plugs in the SDS chuck and use them in drill/no hammer mode for drilling steel and wood. I prefer to use a standard 1/2" drill for those tasks. My 1/2" non hammer drill is a Milwaulkee pistol grip it'll twist your wrist off.

 

[Egon]

Iv'e had a little experience with 5/8 SDS hammer drills, namely Metabo, Makita and Ryobi. All had the standard drill chuck included. No complaints on any of them.

The Makita has drilled quite a few holes in granite rock.

 

[JB4310]

Last 2 jobs were 5/8" holes in reinforced concrete, with crushed stone as a filler. 16 On 2 projects, went through a few bits and did a lot of sharpening,
but could not load the drill enough to slow it down.

The ability of the drill to not load down has little to do with efficient hammer drilling.
The problem is if the hammer function is not powerful enough, it doesn't cut the concrete but burns and blunts the bit. Sounds like what you experienced.

I did a job in a high school football stadium where we had to refasten the loose bleacher uprights to the reinforced precast concrete tiers.
Hundreds of 1/4 x 3" wedge anchors.

For a job like that you need a dedicated industrial grade hammer drill like the Hilti I mentioned, got probably 200 holes out of one bit, but more importantly, your arm didn't feel like it was falling off after a day of drilling holes in concrete. No struggling with it, little effort and very comfortable to use.

I can't comment on the other brands but I know the Milwaukee would of failed miserably put to a task like that. and Milwaukee use to be the contractor standard.

JB.

 

[Egon]

The way one handles the drill has an affect on the way it all works.

You just have to hold the drill. Not force it.

Just like a Jackhammer or Wacker Packer. Try to manhandle them and it's a fast way to "Weary Time". Loosely hold and guide them and it turns into an easy job

 

[DanD78]

I have a Porter-Cable that has served me well but not used all the time. My Hilti TE52 is my go to choice for larger holes. For tap con size up my Dewalt 18V works great.

Dan

 

[Bird]

I have a Craftsman 1/2" Corded Hammer Drill that I bought 4 years ago. Maybe it hasn't been used enough yet to know how well it'll hold up over the years, but it's sure been good so far. Actually I didn't intend to buy a hammer drill; just wanted a regular half-inch drill that I found on their website, but the store didn't have one in stock so they asked me if I'd want the hammer drill at the other drill's price ($10 less than shown) and I took it.

 

[2manyrocks]

If you are going to use it as a hammer drill and drill concrete and masonary, get the SDS chuck. I have a Bosch. Good drill. I had to chip out some concrete from a footer in order to install a perimeter drain a few weeks ago. I put a chisel bit in it, set it on hammer only, and it chipped it pretty quickly. I'd never used the hammer only function, but that's what you need with a flat chisel bit so it doesn't rotate.

 

[crazyal]

I have a hilti sds (not sure which model) and it'll drill 1" holes in stone all day long without a hiccup. I've own some others and had good luck with Bosch as well. I've had a few of the plain old 1/2" chuck hammer drills and while they work they don't drill any where near as well as a good sds or spline hammer drill. Maybe I'm wrong but it seams like they turn slower and hit harder. Also I rarely burn up bits with the sds where as with the standard chuck style hammer I've gone through lots of bits.

 

[crash325]

Impressive.

My drill apparently burned out drilling into the slab foundation of an old boiler room. Probably not the right tool for the job.

I occasionally need to drill into masonry or brick but rarely anything harder. I just like to have it and not need than need it and not have it. . . big part of my buying a tractor and finding this board.

Sticking to my original post. For your needs a good multi use drill will be what you want. Decent models range from $70 to $100. Most any of those will walk through cement blocks and brick.

Granted not near as good on reinforced concrete or stone as the "Chuck Less". But way less in cost and a lot more versatile.

 

[Bill Barrett]

The ability of the drill to not load down has little to do with efficient hammer drilling.
The problem is if the hammer function is not powerful enough, it doesn't cut the concrete but burns and blunts the bit. Sounds like what you experienced.

I did a job in a high school football stadium where we had to refasten the loose bleacher uprights to the reinforced precast concrete tiers.
Hundreds of 1/4 x 3" wedge anchors.

For a job like that you need a dedicated industrial grade hammer drill like the Hilti I mentioned, got probably 200 holes out of one bit, but more importantly, your arm didn't feel like it was falling off after a day of drilling holes in concrete. No struggling with it, little effort and very comfortable to use.

I can't comment on the other brands but I know the Milwaukee would of failed miserably put to a task like that. and Milwaukee use to be the contractor standard.

JB.

Pluse 100!
Hilti Online - 1/2 Inch Drills

I have over 12,000 dollars of Hilti tools.
They are the best. And really cheap in the long haul.
I have a couple small drill hammer units, and one big core drill.
Core drill and all that goes with it is where the money is.