jjp8182
Platinum Member
So I'm might be the odd one out here as my thoughts would trend more toward the 3pt finishing mower since it looks like many of those trees were planted in straight lines which would make maneuvering a tractor with 3pt finish mower easier. In fact, in some ways the pictures are making me think of a larger version of what my own yard looks like.
I've had traditional/tractor-style riding mowers as well as zero-turns, but I actually bought my tractor primarily because at the rate I was having to repair/replace retail riding mowers buying a compact tractor (with a finishing mower) was actually the cheaper long-term option. While I know some people have gotten riding mowers to last for years, for me they weren't lasting me much more than 3 years of mowing roughly 1.2 acres 1-2 times a week for 9 months each year (with more than a dozen trees in the yard to mow around, and two edges of the property being adjacent to paved roads). I'm also pretty sure the summer heat here in Alabama didn't help given of those mowers used air-cooled engines.
That being the case it became a simple matter of economics and I could either pay $2k-$3k every 2-3 years and only be able to mow part of my property or I could pay $35K-ish to be able to fully maintain my entire property for (hopefully) the next few decades. Plus have the loader with a grapple to deal with fallen/trimmed branches/limbs was also a huge benefit.
So while I recognize and appreciate that zero-turn mowers can get closer to trees (and other obstacles) they still can't cut the grass that is growing right next to a structure (or tree) just due to the mowing deck sidewalls. Which for me meant a zero-turn mower could reduce the amount of trimming needed, but it wouldn't eliminate the need for additional trimming.
Just my opinion, but it might be worth looking at what you could get for the Yanmar YM2100D and then compare what it'd cost to buy a dedicated mower (in addition to keeping the Yanmar) vs. buying a 4WD compact tractor (with a FEL) and a 3pt finish mower. Personally I'd look for one in the 30hp-45hp range with a hydrostatic transmission for easier speed & direction changes. R4 tires shouldn't cause much damage (they generally don't on my lawn unless it's wet enough I shouldn't even be walking on it). However, if you're not going use it for digging or other dirt work turf tires might also be something to consider.
I've had traditional/tractor-style riding mowers as well as zero-turns, but I actually bought my tractor primarily because at the rate I was having to repair/replace retail riding mowers buying a compact tractor (with a finishing mower) was actually the cheaper long-term option. While I know some people have gotten riding mowers to last for years, for me they weren't lasting me much more than 3 years of mowing roughly 1.2 acres 1-2 times a week for 9 months each year (with more than a dozen trees in the yard to mow around, and two edges of the property being adjacent to paved roads). I'm also pretty sure the summer heat here in Alabama didn't help given of those mowers used air-cooled engines.
That being the case it became a simple matter of economics and I could either pay $2k-$3k every 2-3 years and only be able to mow part of my property or I could pay $35K-ish to be able to fully maintain my entire property for (hopefully) the next few decades. Plus have the loader with a grapple to deal with fallen/trimmed branches/limbs was also a huge benefit.
So while I recognize and appreciate that zero-turn mowers can get closer to trees (and other obstacles) they still can't cut the grass that is growing right next to a structure (or tree) just due to the mowing deck sidewalls. Which for me meant a zero-turn mower could reduce the amount of trimming needed, but it wouldn't eliminate the need for additional trimming.
Just my opinion, but it might be worth looking at what you could get for the Yanmar YM2100D and then compare what it'd cost to buy a dedicated mower (in addition to keeping the Yanmar) vs. buying a 4WD compact tractor (with a FEL) and a 3pt finish mower. Personally I'd look for one in the 30hp-45hp range with a hydrostatic transmission for easier speed & direction changes. R4 tires shouldn't cause much damage (they generally don't on my lawn unless it's wet enough I shouldn't even be walking on it). However, if you're not going use it for digging or other dirt work turf tires might also be something to consider.
