Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road

   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #61  
I'm starting to think that just plain metric is easier.

Starting to think? The SAE system is absolute utter stupidity. I get mad almost every day trying to calculate something stupid. Unfortunately since I can’t buy metric supplies I’m pretty much stuck with it. Today’s math problem laying off a concrete form 28x31. The diagonal measurement of that is 41.77. So unless you’re playing the other stupid game of using 2 tape measures you’ll probably realize your tape measure doesn’t measure in point feet. 3/4 of a foot is a pretty easy conversion but it doesn’t always work that way. Or if you’re calculating concrete yardage you’ll probably quickly come to the realization you’ve got different units. The most accurate way to deal with it is convert everything to inches, multiply, divide by 1728, divide again by 27. All nice even numbers to work with.. If that’s not bad enough go sort a good set of drill bits with inches split into hundreds or higher.
 
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   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #62  
I worked with 10ths and 100ths of a foot long enough the conversions to inches became automatic to me but I understand the problem. Building contractors seem to gravitate to inches where road contractors used 10ths and 100ths.
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #63  
I have leaned a level rod against a tripod to work by myself but that is a bad setup. I did a lot of construction staking I知 my work as a surveyor and never used a laser level but we didn稚 stake a lot of flat building pads. For about the last 15 years we used a digital level, it read a rod that looked like a giant bar code. The gun had a display that gave the rod reading and it did the math for you and displayed the elevation.

A couple of tips. If you are using a transit or an auto level, keep your shots under 250 if you want good results. If you want less accuracy keep it less than 500? Beyond that you can稚 see the rod very well.

Yes most good levels will do stadia and are pretty accurate to the nearest foot.

Levels need to be checked. They can get way out of whack, including the laser levels. Learn how to do a two peg test.

Also we ALWAYS worked in tenths and hundredths of a foot. Learn how to work in that method. The only thing we did in inches were things like pipe size and tree diameters.

Very good post!!!!

Never have saw or used a digital level. I'll hafta Google that one. :)

Also never knew a Level needed checked. I've borrowed my friend's Laser Level several times. Never ran a peg test. Another thing for me to Google.

Working in tenths and hundredths slows me down a bit doing the mental conversion...... :)
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #64  
Well, I started out wondering how I might determine a route to the top of the hilltop proposed home site - i.e., contemplate a new road up, or use the much longer existing road which would take more to maintain and had a number of curves that might not satisfy County Fire. All that explained in the OP. I have selected a grading guy but he is tied up now and in any event wants to wait until we have had some rain before starting (and that is fine as we have a long way to go before we get through the other steps). I really just wanted to have more information re what was possible, feasible, etc. And as I have time, I thought it would be a bit of fun to figure this out.

Anyway, what I eventually learned was that I could determine the elevations at the proposed starting point of the new driveway/road, and at the hilltop proposed home site using info on the Internet. And we also measured what seemed to be the most logical way up - with a 300 foot measuring tape reel - the distance from the starting point to the hilltop. Then with the help of Dodgeman and others - providing the math and formula - I could determine that the grade for the proposed road could be made to meet the requirements of County Fire. ( I put the elevation numbers and distance in an earlier post).

The only thing that has changed since then is that I have moved the proposed starting point out about 15 feet further out, and I have marked the proposed route, and have used my tractor to grade a path to the top - about 12+ feet wide. I have also determined that there will be one spot near the beginning where the slope may exceed - slightly - the 12% limit, with the rest easily coming in under 12% - though that could change. With a chainsaw and the tractor I have taken out the smaller trees and bushes etc. to clear the way. There will be 3-4 more trees to move but I will leave those for the bulldozer when the grading contractor gets here - too big for my tractor. It was nice to see the 'way up' sort of cleared out - it all started to make sense once I could see all that take shape. So, I am satisfied now with the feasibility of the more direct route, and happy that I have a lot more info than I had before posting. Hey, and I had a lot of fun doing it as once I had the requisite info re feasibility of the short way up I was able to get a lot of seat time on the tractor.

As always, grateful for the help I find here.

Forgot to mention: the way up seems as if it will be uniformly gradual - but I will be checking on that when I get back to it and will then try to utilize some of the other suggestions here - i.e., to check the grade at any spot where it may seem to be a bit steeper.

glad to hear you can maintain a steady grade. i have 1 spot the fire chief thought a truck may high center. added some dirt and he passed inspection. Its good to have a working relation with the fire department...
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #65  
They make folding rulers with 10ths and 100ths on one side and inches on the other. You can just flip flop the ruler for conversions to inches and back.

A high quality optical level costs maybe $1000 or a little less, a digital level is probably more like $2500.
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #66  
Okay; here is the solution.

[video]http://www.mohaveinstrument.com/NewFiles/Ni212.html[/video]
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #67  
Egons link is to a Zeiss level and I used one of those off and on for years. In my opinion one of the best ever made. The wear on the front is from the sun shade being taken off and on.
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #68  
For checking the angles one of these would provide sufficient accuracy. If more is required just step up to it’s bigger brother.

[video]http://www.dehilster.info/geodetic_instruments/1962_wild_heerbrugg_t2_theodolite.php[/video]
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #69  
I have to admit I only read a few pages of this thread but fwiw I'll throw in our experience.

We built in a heavily wooded lot, 6 acres, that has a significant elevation drop from the street before it rose to where we wanted the house.

We started out by getting a topo map online from some gov agency (usgs?). We were able to draw in a workable 500' driveway and at the same time determine where n how much fill to bring in.

We just presented the plan to the excavator and he took care of it.
 
   / Recommendations to shoot / determine a grade on proposed road #70  
That is the best approach.
 

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