Recommended brand of logsplitter?

[dstig1]

Lots of folks on Arboristsite.com swear by the Speecos/TSC Huskees (made by Speeco). For your needs, you will probably get the best bang for your buck there, and if you have problmes, everyone seems very happy with the customer service. I got a Supersplit as I have more money than brains, and I like the faster cycle. My friend and I have some 30-40 cords to go through from our land clearing exercise, so the faster time is helpful, but the cost is roughly 2x the smallest Speecos. But the Supersplits are pretty darn awesome.

 

[LD1]

I would go down to each store and pretend to put logs on each and pull the lever to see which feels more natural to you.

I would love to see a video of that:laughing:

The OP will probabally end up on one of those TV shows that show craze things people do caught on the surveillance cameras



And yes the TSC splitters use a Haldex/Barns 2-stage as well, or at least they used to. So when comparing the lowes/troybuilt to the TSC huskee, they are basically the same motor (if you get the right huskee) and the same pump. Cylinder, and valves, who knows but I'd call it a wash. The determining factor between the two for be would be how well it looks built which is subject to opinion, how egronomic it is, and the price.

For me, I like the motor on the same side as me. I dont have to walk around the splitter (and the wood pile at the end) to start/stop the engine.

 

[crazyal]

I would love to see a video of that:laughing:

The OP will probabally end up on one of those TV shows that show craze things people do caught on the surveillance cameras

For me, I like the motor on the same side as me. I dont have to walk around the splitter (and the wood pile at the end) to start/stop the engine.

I never said I would do it in front of other people, lol.

Not having the motor on the same side I don't know if I would like it or not. Since I only start and stop the motor rarely and I can easily reach the switch by leaning over the cylinder I'm not sure how much that would matter much to me. But I think you just added one more test to be done while shopping.

 

[Erik Graham]

Greetings;

I've been using a SplitFire splitter for about 3 years now. I ended up buying a used and abused one from a local rental company so I'm not sure how old it is but I imagine it has been punished like no other. I really like two things about this splitter. One, it splits on the return stroke as well. The splitter head is much like a double headed axe and is operated by a double acting cylinder. Secondly, the splitter head is much narrower than the traditional large wedges found on many splitters. I'm not sure how many tons it is rated at but I have split many 24"-30" oak pieces with mine with no problem. Mine is powered with a Honda 5 hp GX series engine. In my view, the narrower wedge is also much safer, especially when splitting dry wood. The narrower wedge is pushed through the wood and does not have the sort of "ballistic" crack that wider wedges produce. Here's a link to their website. Not cheap, but well built and well thought out.

Manufacturers of high quality, custom engineered wood splitters, log splitters and wood chippers. | Split-Fire Sales Inc. Quality Built. High Performance. | Split-Fire - Your Best Choice

Cheers, Erik

 

[Don87]

I would tell you to look at one like I have, but I don't think it's made any more.
It's an MTD, 20 ton, that I purchased from Quality Farm and Fleet about 13 years ago.
I split about 10 cords per year, and my neighbor splits about the same amount with it.
I used to be a logger, and would load up my pickup with the knuckle boom loader. Boss said I couldn't split wood that size:laughing:
Never had a piece it wouldn't split.

 

[tommaple]

If I was in the market I would have to go with the dual split style.
Powerhorse Dual Split Log Splitter 20-Ton, 3000 PSI, Model# 11571 | Log Splitters | Northern Tool + Equipment
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Another factor to consider with the dual-split machine is that you don't have as much power on the return stroke as you do on the push stroke. With a double-acting cylinder, on the return or pull stroke the effective piston diameter is reduced by the area of the piston rod. For example, if you have a 4" cylinder with a 1 1/2" diameter rod, operating at 2500 psi you will have 15.7 tons of force. However, on the return stroke you will only have 13.5 tons of force. If you are splitting some really tough wood, such as elm, you might have to reverse the ram anyway before splitting the next piece. This would let you use the ram on the push stroke so you're getting the full power of the hydraulics.

 

[crazyal]

Does anyone have the Northern tool brand splitter? There's none around me so buying one wasn't an option but it looks like they have a cable that idles the motor down when the ram retracts all the way. Not sure if it's more of a gimick or if it really works well and takes the abuse a splitter would see.

Normally when splitting I rarely let the ram return all the way before I get another log on it. But there are some times when I need to push a couple of pieces closer that it would be nice to have the splitter idle down.

 

[Deadman]

I have a Swisher brand splitter, and it seems really nice. I've split 100 face cord with it, and it works great. Has a 5.5 HP Honda engine, and 28 tons.
I split twisted Elm with it today, and it never once stalled.

 

[EddieWalker]

I looked at the 28 ton unit at TSC today with the Honda engine. It was $1,500 and seemed like a good splitter. Then I went to Lowes and looked at their 27 ton unit with what looks like the same Honda engine. Controls are the same, design is very similar. The Lowes machine has a metal coil wraped around the hoses that I felt was a nice extra. The splitter also seemed to be further out from the machine. Both of them wobbled around when shaking them, so I guess that's normal.

The Lowes machine is on sale for $1,300

Eddie