Red Line vs. Amsoil vs. Mobil 1

Dargo · Jan 21, 2005

Well, what do you think the outcome will be? I used Red Line 10W-30 oil in my 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 5.3 liter V8 285hp, Amsoil SAE 5W-30 in my 2001 Town Car Cartier with a 4.6 liter V8 240hp, and Mobil 1 in my 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 4X4 with a 5.9 liter Cummins diesel 392hp (modified - last hp on dyno in 2004).

Initial observations were that the Amsoil and Mobil 1 seemed normal, but the Red Line was a pain in the rear to wipe up when spilled! It seemed to really cling to everything. Be careful when pulling your funnel out and dripping Red Line on your engine. I keep my engines very clean, and I had to actually use a detergent solution to get it off of my engine. Dry rags and paper towels would not seem to get it off. Does this mean anything? I don't know.

I intend to do an oil analysis on each vehicle as soon as they reach 5000 miles with the oil. Previously, each vehicle received an oil and filter change at almost precisely 3000 miles with regular dino oil and the factory filter. On the Dodge, I stayed with the Cummins Fleet Guard oil filter, the Lincoln got the Motorcraft filter, and the Chevrolet got the AC Delco oil filter. I stayed with the same filter on each. Other than the Cummins being modified, the other engines are completely stock and have had all manufacturer recommended maintenance performed at the suggested intervals. None of the engines have had any sort of failure or have had to be repaired.

I'm not sure what lab I'll use, and am open to suggestions. I plan to use the same lab for each to try to get a standard type of result and the exact same tests. As far as the oil goes, I used the Mobil 1 in the Cummins because it takes 12 quarts and the Mobil 1 was the least expensive. The Red Line was by far the most expensive at just at $8 per quart. The Amsoil came in at about $1 a quart more than the Mobil 1.

Each vehicle gets a mix of highway and in town driving. However, the Lincoln in general will have more highway miles on it, and the Suburban will generally have the most in town miles put on it. I guess that about covers it. Anyone have any other suggestions to monitor or note to make the comparison fair?

getut · Jan 21, 2005

The idea itself seems good, but I don't think you'll be proving anything. Differences in the engines themselves will be problematic. When using 3 different vehicles, you may very well see Redline show up badly if tested on an engine with air filter leaks, or slight blow by, etc. You could get a little closer to the truth by running each oil in each vehicle over 3 consecutive oil changes, but you still won't gain much unless the conditions were exactly the same for the entire oil change for each oil. Even then the last oil tested would be at an un-verifiable starting point because the engine has more mileage on it than the first oil tested.

Unfortunately the only true comparible test is out of reach of the ordinary user. In this case probably 9 new vehicles (or at least all broken in on the same oil with the exact same mileage). 1 of each type with each type of oil so that an average can be drawn up and then controlled driving conditions. Each set of 3 identical vehicles but with different oil would have to be exposed to the same conditions at the same time.

That is the only way that any differences that you encounter, could be 100% attributed to oil differences, and not to engine or environmental differences.

gsxr1100 · Jan 21, 2005

( Well, what do you think the outcome will be? I used Red Line 10W-30 oil in my 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 5.3 liter V8 285hp, Amsoil SAE 5W-30 in my 2001 Town Car Cartier with a 4.6 liter V8 240hp, and Mobil 1 in my 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 4X4 with a 5.9 liter Cummins diesel 392hp (modified - last hp on dyno in 2004). (

So were are comparing gas oils to diesel now? I also expect the diesel (chipped) to have some higher #’s.

( Initial observations were that the Amsoil and Mobil 1 seemed normal, but the Red Line was a pain in the rear to wipe up when spilled! It seemed to really cling to everything. Be careful when pulling your funnel out and dripping Red Line on your engine. I keep my engines very clean, and I had to actually use a detergent solution to get it off of my engine. Dry rags and paper towels would not seem to get it off. Does this mean anything? I don't know. )

It means you engine looks nice and pretty!

( I intend to do an oil analysis on each vehicle as soon as they reach 5000 miles with the oil. Previously, each vehicle received an oil and filter change at almost precisely 3000 miles with regular dino oil and the factory filter. On the Dodge, I stayed with the Cummins Fleet Guard oil filter, the Lincoln got the Motorcraft filter, and the Chevrolet got the AC Delco oil filter. I stayed with the same filter on each. Other than the Cummins being modified, the other engines are completely stock and have had all manufacturer recommended maintenance performed at the suggested intervals. None of the engines have had any sort of failure or have had to be repaired.

I'm not sure what lab I'll use, and am open to suggestions. I plan to use the same lab for each to try to get a standard type of result and the exact same tests. As far as the oil goes, I used the Mobil 1 in the Cummins because it takes 12 quarts and the Mobil 1 was the least expensive. The Red Line was by far the most expensive at just at $8 per quart. The Amsoil came in at about $1 a quart more than the Mobil 1.

Each vehicle gets a mix of highway and in town driving. However, the Lincoln in general will have more highway miles on it, and the Suburban will generally have the most in town miles put on it. I guess that about covers it. Anyone have any other suggestions to monitor or note to make the comparison fair? )

I would post un-used oil tests from each. Next how can you compare a gas to a diesel oil when diesel oils will/should have a more robust additive package. I think the test out be good FYI but so far I have not seen oil tests from the same auto’s do the same.

To close the problem most will have with the test, if even the Redline wins when compared to same type oils and engines; is that if you can’t get the oil at any Part store/Walmart in America, most will not care. Or the "price will be too high" or "I never needed it for over 40 years so why now". Just wait and see.

getut · Jan 21, 2005

Oh and Dargo, don't get me wrong. I think a GENERAL hypothesis can be found from what you are doing and it may aid your own peace of mind. But the naysayers will only take it as gospel if it is done right with no "well this COULD have caused differences" as a fallback excuse.

I think there are far too many uncontrolled circumstances in your test to convince anyone.

JerryG · Jan 21, 2005

Brent,
I for one look forward to what the tests show. Let use know what you find out.

gsxr1100 · Jan 21, 2005

If you do some homework online, these comparisons are done. I respect what Dargo is doing 100% but if most TBN's will "buy" it, is a different story.

Dargo · Jan 21, 2005

( I think there are far too many uncontrolled circumstances in your test to convince anyone. )

No doubt. However, it is well argued about the results even if you buy identical vehicles and do the same tests. Even if they are driven the same mileage in the same conditions, even with the same driver, you will get variables. The "test" is to convince me. Not to be rude, but take from it what you want. I have 9 vehicles currently (and will end up with more with my 5 kids just starting to hit driving age), 3 tractors, 3 utility vehicles, 1 motorcycle, a fork truck, diesel generator, log splitter, a power washer, and a half a dozen lawn mowers, gas powered trimmers, and chain saws etc.. (no wonder my barn is full!) To just change the oil in my personal "fleet" is relatively expensive for me. Picking a quality oil is important to me. I may split what I use with an oil that has a different addative package for my diesel engines, but otherwise stay the same and go for a bulk discount.

Any labs give a better bang for your buck? The only lab I've ever used in the past was Blackstone.

gsxr1100 · Jan 21, 2005

I think Blackstone is high. Last time I checked they charge more for each result you want.

I use OAI but I think most diesel shops and Cat will oil test.

getut · Jan 21, 2005

Dargo, I wasn't trying to cut your test in any way. I think it is great and am definintely interested myself. But I am the choir! I already use high quality oils. I am already a believer in the pros of using these, but was simply saying that YOU are the only one that will take much away from your testing. There are too many variables to sway the NON believers is my point. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

As for the variables you mention. That is why I said same conditions in groups of three. To minimize the differences. The 3 vehicles are to form an average, because there are even manufacturing anomalies in sequential serial numbered vehicles that can slightly influence tests.

Dargo · Jan 21, 2005

getut, no offense taken at all. As a matter of fact, I plan to sometime PM you to ask about powered paragliding. I have a fair amount of acreage and, at one time, wanted to buy an ultralight. My wife flat said NO. Now, flying in a powered parachute topically seems to be a lot safer to me. I have a friend who is really big into that, and he has one that has a 3 wheeled two seat setup rather than simply the harness. It sounds really cool!