Refreshing my Curtis Cab

[dnw64]

I recently bought a tractor that had a soft-sided Curtis Cab installed.

Most of the adhesive backed velcro (hook side) on the cab frame is missing or falling off. I have two questions related to such:

• What is the best way to remove the 10+ year old adhesive? I tried Goo-Gone and it's virtually ineffective.
• What is the best replacement material? I see all kinds of Velcro products but can't figure out what is most applicable.

TIA

 

[TimberHole]

When the adhesive is that old I'm not 100% sure but I use lighter fluid to remove adhesive. If the adhesive is stubborn try soaking a cloth and putting over the adhesive to keep it wet longer.

Not sure on the best velcro product.

 

[dnw64]

I will try the lighter fluid - thanks.

I ended up buying Marine Grade Velcro hook from McMaster. Cost me $80 for what I needed, Hope it lasts at least as long as the original! But I know the key will be getting a good surface to put it on.

 

[aczlan]

We have a Curtis cab on a BX2660. Once the original Velcro came off, we couldn't get any other Velcro to stick (on the back).
What I did, was rivet on a snap every foot or so across the cab frame (on top of the velcro), then put matching snaps on the back covers.
That way the velcro stays put and keeps the wind out of the cab while the snaps provide the mechanical attachment.

Aaron Z

 

[bigtiller]

I have removed many damaged decals off of metal (part of my job) and the glue residue is the hard part. The first thing I did was to spray it with WD-40 and let it soak for 20 to 30 minutes and most of the residue would wipe away. For the remaining stubborn residue I would use acetone. Use it quickly in small areas. If the acetone sets too long it will begin to soften the paint.

Also, it says right on the can "for removing label adhesives".

 

[TheMan419]

Acetone is your friend. It will eat through the paint if you leave it on too long. Also VERY flammable.

 

[dnw64]

Still working on this...

My best success so far has been a combination of scraping with a razor blade and acetone. The thing is, the previous owner(s) must have used a combination of different adhesives once the original adhesive started to fail. I think the original is the stuff that is hard and scrapes off pretty easily. Then there are at least two "gummy" kinds, one of which I'm pretty sure is a silicon based product.

I ordered a rubber decal/adhesive removal wheel that goes in a drill. Will see how that works.

At this point, if I were starting over I would go a different route. I've come up with two that could be used in at least some of the areas.

1. Snaps, as suggested by Aaron I think is a good idea. Not sure why that wasn't implemented further by the factory, as they are used at the top of the back panel, as well as the engine surround.

2. Use Velcro that is made with a rigid back, and screw or rivet it on.

BTW, does anyone have issues with "shrinkage"? Most noticeable on the small side panels behind the doors. Even with the top just barely catching, the bottom doesn't quite reach, and certainly not enough to catch any Velcro that might be applied to the horizontal surface. There are little notches in the corners of the bottom that suggest it would be bent outwards with the Velcro in between the uprights. It really should be 1 to 1-1/2" longer than it is right now. Not really much that can be done about it unless I add a piece to the frame or body.

I'm probably being a lot more picky about the fit/finish of the cab, especially since I'm adding the heater.

 

[bigtiller]

Still working on this...

My best success so far has been a combination of scraping with a razor blade and acetone. The thing is, the previous owner(s) must have used a combination of different adhesives once the original adhesive started to fail. I think the original is the stuff that is hard and scrapes off pretty easily. Then there are at least two "gummy" kinds, one of which I'm pretty sure is a silicon based product.

I ordered a rubber decal/adhesive removal wheel that goes in a drill. Will see how that works.

At this point, if I were starting over I would go a different route. I've come up with two that could be used in at least some of the areas.

1. Snaps, as suggested by Aaron I think is a good idea. Not sure why that wasn't implemented further by the factory, as they are used at the top of the back panel, as well as the engine surround.

2. Use Velcro that is made with a rigid back, and screw or rivet it on.

BTW, does anyone have issues with "shrinkage"? Most noticeable on the small side panels behind the doors. Even with the top just barely catching, the bottom doesn't quite reach, and certainly not enough to catch any Velcro that might be applied to the horizontal surface. There are little notches in the corners of the bottom that suggest it would be bent outwards with the Velcro in between the uprights. It really should be 1 to 1-1/2" longer than it is right now. Not really much that can be done about it unless I add a piece to the frame or body.

I'm probably being a lot more picky about the fit/finish of the cab, especially since I'm adding the heater.

That might be the way to go. Form a piece of 26 ~ gauge sheet metal into a 3/4 by 1&1/2" angle, cut and mold it to shape, double-stick tape it to the tractor and Velcro the bottom panels to it. I wouldn't get too bothered if the area around the floor wasn't sealed up tight. I put most of my efforts for gap closing under the seat. When the wind is at my back, it gets cold fast if I don't have all the holes plugged where the levers are.

 

[Homeline]

(Elmer Fudd voice)......Be wery, wery careful with acetone, lacquer thinner, and other potent solvents. Left on too long it ccould soften or discolor paint, vinyl, plastic, etc.

Some more tips...
Try softening adhesive with hairdryer. Then gently/lightly scrape of the bulk of residue with old credit card, room key card or similar. Or, mentioned above, use less caustic liquid like WD-40 or paint thinner soaked in a rag. Let it set for a bit, then scrape!

 

[dnw64]

(Elmer Fudd voice)......Be wery, wery careful with acetone, lacquer thinner, and other potent solvents....use less caustic liquid like WD-40 or paint thinner soaked in a

"Potent solvents" are not working. Not likely that "less caustic liquids" are going to be successful. I mean, I don't see the point of even trying. To me, it sounds like saying "The 50 HP tractor can't handle the 8' snowblower, so maybe you should try a 25 HP one".