Relieving stress from top link tractor mount - 3 Pt backhoe

[DennisfromCincy]

In a "Hydraulics" thread another member brought up the possibility of damaging the tractor top link mount because of stresses of a 3-point backhoe on a compact tractor. I do not dispute that possibility.

I do rest most of the backhoe weight on the drawbar of my EX2900 which relieves some stress on the lift arms. I fabricate, so I am pondering removing some/near all of the stress on the top link. Solution needs to be substantial enough, quick attach, looks like oe, and simple as possible.

I ponder adding an additional adjustable top link since I have 2 sets of unused pin mounts on the backhoe top link. A straight pull out of the way of the lift arms in the max up position mounted to the ROPS is a possibility. The ROPS is attached with 3 sae equiv Grade 8 - 5/8" bolts on each side into a 1" plate attached to the rear housing for the drawbar. The ROPS itself is substantial rectangular tubing.

I ponder 2" - 1/4" wall square tubing across with a welded wraparound top link mount of 5/16 or 3/8 top link mount. ROPS would only be drilled/threaded and bolted. It cannot interfere with either seat or adjustment.

Some of you guys may already have something.


-----Please DO NOT discuss/agree/dispute whether it is needed or not. ----- thanks

 

[ptsg]

We don't get any of those subframe mounted BH here in Portugal or even the rest of Europe. Pretty much all are 3pt BH.

However, those do get a couple more links added to spread the forces between different points on the tractor, instead of concentrating everything on the top link.

People over here also tend to run either slightly undersized implements or perfectly sized rather than go straight for the oversized implement route. Which also prevents a lot of breakdowns. Not saying this is the case here by any means.

Here are some ideas:

And an example of what happens with too big of a BH, using just the top link:

 

[DennisfromCincy]

The ROPS was used for the additional mounts in pic 1. Helpful pics. cool

 

[LouNY]

Either to the rops which will have the safety police screaming or up further forward to the axles or loader sub frame.

 

[jfsawatzky]

Either to the rops which will have the safety police screaming or up further forward to the axles or loader sub frame.

This is a good point… the kubota sub frame distributes the load to the loader mounts on the front of the tractor transferring the stress around to multiple points and not only on the back end of the tractor. It’s not only the weight of the backhoe on the 3 pt. to consider it’s the dynamic load too that needs to be dispersed.
Building a strong 4 pt mount is probably better than using the top link alone but I think that the kubota subframe provides more protection so for me is a better option to avoid risk

 

[DennisfromCincy]

I do not have a subframe with my Yanmar. Here is my progress, awaiting paint to dry. I have 2 - 1/2 inch threaded holes to complete before mounting it.

 

[DennisfromCincy]

Completed. With the new top link, I took all the weight off the lower tractor top link mount then I put some back on maybe a third. The new crossbar is offset to allow full rear adjustment of the seat and sitting flexing back.

 

[DennisfromCincy]

I relieved all weight from the tractor oe top link. I bolted the crossbar
which is bolted both sides to the lift arms 1/2 inch bolts to the drawbar 5/8 inch bolt. The BH weight is on the drawbar and the lift arms. Jacks and hoe will lift the rear of the tractor off the ground. To remove BH, hoses, 4 pins and 3 bolts.

 

[DennisfromCincy]

Just keeping all on the same thread. I added 2 stabilizers and removed the oe top link all together - vacant.

That piece of oak kept the half inch drill with 3/4" bit from breaking my arms anything on my arms. Next time all mounts would be on the added ROPS arm. There would be 3 sets of stirrup mounts instead of one. I would make each end support longer and have 2 --- 1/2" inch bolts on each side instead of one.

I will update if I break anything.