Remote control electrical outlet recommendation?

[Industrial Toys]

I was never a fan of wireless stuff for my security business. If I ever needed reliable long range wireless equipment, I would use Innovonics. You could rig up something with this stuff that is guaranteed to work. Of course it is more money than most of the JUNK on the market.

 

[mercdv]

I would recommend doing some research into Z-Wave devices. This might not be a good solution for you because of the complexity. Simple might be better for your application because of time constraints and distance. I use a Z-Wave network to control tons of things around our place. They make products that are usable outdoors and the way the devices work is the signal hops from device to device and not directly to your WiFi router. You can extend the Z-Wave network range by setting up devices in steps out to where you are trying to get. There is a learning curve with Z-Wave if you want to start doing advanced things but setting up a few simple outlets and switches is not that difficult. I have automated routines that run everyday at certain times to turn things on and off. If you want to get into turning on/off devices based on events other than the standard list of events offered by your hub software, you can connect your system to IFTTT and setup custom events. I can control everything on the Z-Wave network from my cell phone from anywhere in the world. I even have it setup to alert me when certain doors are opened and even to turn on the bedroom lights if anyone enters the garage while we are asleep.

I just wanted to throw this out there in case you or anyone else is interested into looking at other solutions.

 

[MossRoad]

Have you ever heard of X10 products? They run over the house wiring. Not wireless. Only requirement is the buildings are on the same electric feed.

- Is the garage electric fed from the house or the house fed from the garage?

If yes, you can you can use an X10 heavy duty 20amp appliance module for $34.99.
Pam4 Heavy Duty 2-Amp Appliance Module - Modules - X1 PRO

Or an X10 heavy duty 20amp appliance receptacle for $29.99.
XPR2-W White Heavy Duty Appliance Receptacle - Modules - X1 PRO

You'll need a way to turn it off and on, so you can do it manually. Here's a controller for $32.99.
PMC1 Mini Controller - Controllers - X1 PRO

Or put a timer on it. You can still do it manually from the timer. $59.99
XPMT4 LCD 64-Event Mini Timer - Controllers - X1 PRO

I've used these things for well over 25 years. I've used that exact heavy duty 20amp outlet on my swimming pool pump for 10-15 years, plus numerous lights and things on different modules.

The beauty of these things is they are simple, plug in, and work over the wiring.

If you want to get fancy, you can add wireless interfaces for remote controls, computer interfaces for advanced programming, etc.... but for simple plug-and-play of 110V devices, they work.

The company was great, then some sleaseball bought it and turned it into a wireless camera voyeur type creeper guy hangout, then went bankrupt. Someone else has purchased the company, and it appears to be people that are returning it to what it's good at; simple control and automation.

If, for some reason, the signal won't go through, there's a passive coupler you can put next to the breaker box that bridges both legs in the box so the signal goes through, but I'd try it without the coupler first.

Anyhow, it's a very good solution that works without wireless anything.

You could put an LED light fixture in tandem with the block heater/slide pump in a location where you could see if from the house, to act as an indicator light as well, to let you know the signal got to the module to turn the block heater on, and also to let you know when it's off.

Worth a look.

 

[Industrial Toys]

X-10 has been turning a dozen or so lights on at dusk for thirty years via a sundowner. Also controls my X-mas lights. It's failing is that it was a one way system. They actually developed a two way system with feedback but it did not meet with market approval on account of the increased cost.

Funny, whenever I or friends tried to control block heaters, we were almost always greeted by a stone cold block!

X-10 is a DEAD issue, on account of electronic power supplies and lighting are way too noisy for that (Line Carrier) technology to work reliably.

As for block heaters. If I don't know if a machine needs to be plugged in, I use my homemade little timer motor driving a microswitch. Simple, no electronics and saves power. With the SPDT microswitch, I have two settings 20 min on, ten min off or the other way around. It keeps equipment just nice and warm, not HOT which isn't required.

 

[Greenland South]

Hey Dave, Mine has worked at minus 30c.

 

[Quebecguy]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a remote controlled outlet that works reliably and in colder temperatures?

Can't you just leave your block heater plugged into an outlet in your garage and then turn the power off and on in the garage circuit by use of the circuit breaker in your main electrical panel in your house?

 

[PILOON]

I have used an Intermatic HBRC for many years with no problems, can handle 15 amps and comes with 2 receivers, one 4 outside usage and the other 4 dry inside.
Hand held unit is about car remote start unit.
Price is in the +/- $25.00 range.
Many folks use these to activate Xmas decorations as well.
My tractor loves it.

Previously I used a Heath device that was equally good. (downside was the hand held unit was quite large)

The nice thing is you activate as you fill the coffee pot and when dressed and coffied up the tractor is ready to go!

 

[PILOON]

Years ago I used a remote switch made by Heath Company. Had a range of 50 or so feet, can稚 remember how much wattage it could handle. Remote looked like a wall switch and used a 9 volt battery for power.

13 amps resistive
960 watts incandescent
960 florescent
1/3 hp motor.

Have same unit, worked OK but remote was bulky but reliable.

Still have it but did upgrade for a more compact remote unit.
Recall that I paid about $25.00 Cdn 4 it.

 

[John_Mc]

Can't you just leave your block heater plugged into an outlet in your garage and then turn the power off and on in the garage circuit by use of the circuit breaker in your main electrical panel in your house?

Yeah, I could, except my pond aerator is on the same circuit, which is generally on constantly. Also, by the time I go down to the basement and get to the circuit breaker, I could just about get to the garage and back (though admittedly, I don't have to go outside to get to the basement.)

 

[KB7722]

I use something like this for Christmas lights. It's rated for 15amps. That's good enough for a blockheater.

Robot Check