Remote lever sticking

jinman · Jan 3, 2004

On my Class III Boomer, I have a single remote that I use for my hydraulic toplink. Within the last few months, the remote valve has started sticking when I move the handle to the forward (retract) position only. The handle is not rubbing on anything and it seems the actuator pin is sticking inside the valve body. When I move the handle rearward, it always returns to neutral postion. Several times I've tried to move the postion control and nothing happens to the lift arms. I then notice the remote handle is stuck and the pressure bypass valve is lifting (I wish my hearing was better.). On centering the remote valve, the 3PH lift arms work normally.

Does anyone else with remotes have a "sticky" problem like mine? I've lubed the actuator pin and it seems to help for a short time before returning to its bad habit of sticking. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

tc35dforme · Jan 3, 2004

Does anyone else with remotes have a "sticky" problem like mine? Nope...not yet.

Sounds like something internal like dirt or a burr on the valve inerds.

Mark_in_NH · Jan 3, 2004

Jim,
I have one remote on my tractor for angling my snow plow.
It is presently working fine. Of course my tractor only has 70 ??? something hours on it and the remote valve hasn't had much use.

Spencer · Jan 3, 2004

jinman, I have the exact same problem on my tc33d. It scared the heck out of me the first time it happened this summer. A quick call to the service department at my dealership made me feel a little bit better about it. I have my tractor in for warranty work right now. This is one of the issues that I told them about. I will keep you posted when I get my tractor back.
Spence

techinNY · Jan 3, 2004

I thought you had all your problems over, oh it's mechanical!
Try taking the two bolts out that hold the cap on over the return spring, it sounds like you have some condensation inside there that has things sticking. Clean it up the best you can with the cap off with some kind of cleaner. Then fill the cap with a penetrating oil and reinstall the cap. Work the lever a few times and repeat the procedure until it works like it is supposed to. Been there done that on customer's tractors.

jinman · Jan 4, 2004

( fill the cap with a penetrating oil and reinstall the cap )

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I was building a long terrace yesterday and using my boxblade a lot with the hydraulic toplink. The remote handle would stick in the forward postion almost anytime I didn't return the control handle to neutral by hand. If it's just that return spring, that sounds like a pretty simple fix.

Spencer · Jan 4, 2004

Jinman, please take some pictures of this procedure and post them here if you can.

Thanks, Spence

jinman · Jan 4, 2004

( take some pictures of this procedure and post them )

Spence, it may be awhile before I get to do the actual lubrication of my remote valve and I'm sure my tractor is different from yours, even if only slightly. I'm attaching a detailed illustration from the parts catalog which shows the pieces of the remote valve that need lubricating. Actually, this illustration is probably better than any picture I could take. When I take something apart, sometimes pieces fall out and I have to figure out how they all go back together. This illustration can save me a lot of grief if that happens.

Anyhow... Part No. 15 in this illustration is pointed toward the rear of the tractor, so removing the screws (#16) should be easy without removing the rear tire. If you find there are two repair kits for this assembly. One is for the seals (4,8,9) and the other is for the spring and retainers (11-15). I'm guessing that your TC33D is very similar, maybe even the same parts. I just went out to my tractor and shot a photo of the valve and I'll attach it in a subsequent post. On my tractor, getting to the lower bolt/screw is probably the hardest part.

jinman · Jan 4, 2004

Attachment - Photo of single remote valve on Class III Boomer.

Spencer · Jan 4, 2004

Jinman, thanks for taking the time to post this information. Looking at the two attachments that you posted I think my class II is mechanically different from yours. Hopefully the advice that TechinNY gave will solve both of out problems though.