remote valve operation

[SugarPeaFarm]

I have a 2015 Mahindra 4530 4WD with one set of rear remotes. The Mahindra manual is confusing in terminology (to me) on how the control valve operates. Here is what it says, and hopefully someone can translate for me. I want to run a hydraulic top link from this set of remotes.

Spool Action .........................................................
Position 0 : Spring Centered (No. detent in neutral)
Position 1 : Detent with kick off.
Position 2 : Detent with kick off.
Position 4 : Detent

I am assuming return to center with all flow diverted from work ports with check valves holding pressure to the ports.
Are positions 1 and 2 in opposite directions, and where is position 4? Their explanation of operation talks about two separate pilot stages, the secondary one adjustable up to 250 psi under the primary. Do those correlate to the detents with kick outs on positions 1 and 2? And is position 4 designed to hold the flow wide open for use with a splitter, for example?

From the description, this valve block appears to be a stackable system. If the included valve is not ideal for a top link application, the Mahindra add-a-valve kit is wildly expensive at $1500 or so. The manual says you can add up to eight spools, but there is only a plus one kit available. Someone must make them, I would hope. Right now I don't need another remote if this one will work, but if I have to add a set, I would rather plan ahead and add at least a couple more.

 

[C4Ranch]

You should be able to push the lever forward and back and it will spring to center. This will work for a top link.

Then if you put into detent kick off in either direction it will hold until it maxes the piston the return to center.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Your valve will work fine for a top link. You need to find a different dealer to get your next valve from. That or they want $1500 installed, but that is way high for just the valve. Should be more in the $1100-$1200 area which is very high, but if you want OEM, that's what it will cost.

 

[k0ua]

I have a 2015 Mahindra 4530 4WD with one set of rear remotes. The Mahindra manual is confusing in terminology (to me) on how the control valve operates. Here is what it says, and hopefully someone can translate for me. I want to run a hydraulic top link from this set of remotes.

Spool Action .........................................................
Position 0 : Spring Centered (No. detent in neutral)
Position 1 : Detent with kick off.
Position 2 : Detent with kick off.
Position 4 : Detent

I am assuming return to center with all flow diverted from work ports with check valves holding pressure to the ports.
Are positions 1 and 2 in opposite directions, and where is position 4? Their explanation of operation talks about two separate pilot stages, the secondary one adjustable up to 250 psi under the primary. Do those correlate to the detents with kick outs on positions 1 and 2? And is position 4 designed to hold the flow wide open for use with a splitter, for example?

From the description, this valve block appears to be a stackable system. If the included valve is not ideal for a top link application, the Mahindra add-a-valve kit is wildly expensive at $1500 or so. The manual says you can add up to eight spools, but there is only a plus one kit available. Someone must make them, I would hope. Right now I don't need another remote if this one will work, but if I have to add a set, I would rather plan ahead and add at least a couple more.

Take this for what it is worth, as I have 0 Mahindra valve experience, BUT here is what I think. I think you explained it pretty well. Position 0 would be centered neutral. Position 1 is push the valve one direction or the other until it detents, but it will kick out if the piston reaches the end of its stroke and starts to deadhead. Position 2 is the other direction and it does the same thing, the only difference is which QD the fluid flow come out of and the expelled fluid comes back into. Now position 4 is probably where you push position 2 further past the first detent into a second detent that does NOT kick out no mater what. The main relief valve should open but the control valve in question will not kick out. This is what I think, not what I know.

Now all of that said, I would add up to 3 more valves and associated QD's by adding These electric over hydraulic valves behind you existing control valve.

Dont forget to get the electrical connectors and the stacking kit if you add two valve or three valves

Of course you will need a switch, depending on how many valves you want to add. Build your valve stack, then procure the proper hydraulic hoses. with QD's on one end and stick the other end into the left side of your stacked valves. The right side of the last valve is the straight ports no valve powered passthru position.. This is the default. Now if you power a valve, the face ports of that valve will have the fluid flow path. Put your QD's on the face of each valve. So if you add 3 of these valves you would have 4 sets of output ports. One input that just plugs into your existing OEM valve. That is the extent of the plumbing, two QD's on two hoses.

The electrical is just adding fused 12 volts thru either a SPDT Center off (if just adding 2 valves) or a Rotary with 3 poles if adding 3 valves. If you just add 1 valve you will just need a SPST.

One valve yields two remotes, 2 valves yields 3 remotes, and 3 valves yields 4 remote sets

What do you think of that?

 

[SugarPeaFarm]

Your valve will work fine for a top link. You need to find a different dealer to get your next valve from. That or they want $1500 installed, but that is way high for just the valve. Should be more in the $1100-$1200 area which is very high, but if you want OEM, that's what it will cost.

Thanks, Brian, I agree, the price is very high. It isn't a dealer markup though, some sell the kit for much less than MSRP and it's still high. I think MSRP was $1563. It's a complete, consumer installable, upgrade from one spool to two spools, and includes a new outlet plate that enables multiple spool sections to be added, supposedly up to eight total. Since I don't need more remotes right now, I will use the existing ones. If/when I need more, I may add a whole new valve stack and leave the OEM one as is. The add-a-valve kit when you already have a two-spool stack is over $900, too rich for me.

James, thanks for the idea on adding electric switching valve additions. I will need to evaluate how they work in practice before I try that. I had multiple remotes on my old tractor and am used to multiple levers. One lever and a rotary switch sounds like it might overload my tiny brain. I'm still fascinated with how much faster loader work is with a manual shuttle. I must admit that functioning synchros are hard to beat as well. Too many flashing lights and magic switch trickery and I might end up testing the ROPS. :thumbdown:

I appreciate the feedback greatly. This site is a great resource.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

These grips work well to control the electric diverters. I too prefer separate levers for each rear remote set, but there are circumstances where the electric diverter units work out best.

 

[SugarPeaFarm]

These grips work well to control the electric diverters. I too prefer separate levers for each rear remote set, but there are circumstances where the electric diverter units work out best.

Nice looking setup. Very tidy. Is the grip control the one with the buttons on top? I am assuming that the lever arm was the existing one for the original remotes? Do you cycle through the new remotes with the buttons and use the grip handle to control the selected set of remotes? Is there any visual indication as to which set is selected?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Nice looking setup. Very tidy. Is the grip control the one with the buttons on top? I am assuming that the lever arm was the existing one for the original remotes? Do you cycle through the new remotes with the buttons and use the grip handle to control the selected set of remotes? Is there any visual indication as to which set is selected?

There can be lights to indicate what valve is selected,($$$) but typically all switches are momentary switches, so the chosen valve is only operational while you have your finger or thumb on the switch. No pressure on any of the switches and you are back to the default circuit which would be the original set now located at the far right. So for operation, you choose what hydraulic needs to be operated, choose that circuit(one of the thumb buttons or the trigger) and then operate the lever just as you would if it was connected to the default circuit. Pretty simple, clean and easy. :thumbsup:

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Position 4 must be float ?

 

[SugarPeaFarm]

I don't think the valve has float, but I won't know for sure until I get a top link hooked up to it. I have a Prince top link on the way, so I should know by next week, if all goes as planned.