Remotes for Remotes

[ronjhall]

<font color="blue"> that's a lot of extraneous plumbing for what could be done with electric splitters like we use on ag. tractors. </font>
5030
I'm a little confused here. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
How would the electric splitters clean up the plumbing if there are no remotes at the rear or front of tractor to start with.
Maybe your are referring to Randalls project.
I have thought about using a electrical splitter if I ever wanted run more than 3 cylinders on my tractor. But have not got to that point yet.

 

[rswyan]

Ron,

I was too - I wasn't sure whether Daryl was replying to my postings or your post initially - but I'm fairly sure he was replying to mine and was talking about the points where I used multiple hydraulic fittings chained together. For example to tie my remote valves into the loader return line I used a JIC run tee, a female JIC to NPT adapter, then a 45 swivel into that and then another 45 swivel on the first 45.

Would have been nicer to use a single steel line, but I didn't.

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'd suggest getting a sheet of T3 aluminum, say 28 gage and forming a cover for the hoses and the termination. Either that, or run them in conduit, which you can bend. )</font>

I think I would be inclined to go with the aluminum - should be easy to form and there's an aluminum wholesaler within 5 minutes of my house. Conduit sounds like it would be a PITA.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Especially the hoses right next to your shoulder. A blind side rupture could blind you. A pinhole leak can be almost invisible, but could penetrate your eye with no problem. You don't want to loose them. )</font>

No - I definitely don't. Realistically, to guard against hydraulic injection, I should only need to shield the hoses on the side facing the operator correct ? You have any idea on what the pressure decrease over distance is for a pinhole rupture ? I know that to check for hydraulic leaks you're supposed to use a piece of say cardboard and not stick a hand right up next to a hose ..... but at some distance the pressure has to fall off dramatically.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Besides, you need to be around to challange my posts. )</font>

Nothing like a little stimulating conversation, eh ? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[5030]

Actually, the pressure don't fall off at all. Perhaps I should say the your maximim pressure is with no flow. Once you have flow, the pressure drops. Understand, hydraulic oil has no compressability, so if you have say 19oo psi at the valve block, you have 1900 psi in the hoses at static ( not being used) pressure. Hope you used 2 wire hoses.

I probably should have clarified EMT istead of conduit, but an aluminum sheild would be more practical.

Stimulating conversation, well, little tractors don't stimulate me, I can't farm with them. What really stimulates me are motorcycles, mainly Triumph motorcycles. One thing though, little tractors or big, the principles are the same and the safety issues are the same too.

 

[5030]

Ron:

Thats the problem with not frequenting this site too much. I might have gotten confused a little. Probably my advanced age.....though not quite as advanced as you.

In so much as cylinders, well if you add 2 more, you will have more than the engine has.

How's things over at Wellington. Haven't been there in a long time.

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Actually, the pressure don't fall off at all. Perhaps I should say the your maximim pressure is with no flow. Once you have flow, the pressure drops. Understand, hydraulic oil has no compressability, so if you have say 19oo psi at the valve block, you have 1900 psi in the hoses at static ( not being used) pressure. )</font>

Right.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hope you used 2 wire hoses. )</font>

Of course /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Two wire, rated for 4000 psi.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I probably should have clarified EMT istead of conduit, but an aluminum sheild would be more practical. )</font>

I got it that you were referring to EMT - yeah, I think I'll just go with aluminum sheet.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Stimulating conversation, well, little tractors don't stimulate me, I can't farm with them. What really stimulates me are motorcycles, mainly Triumph motorcycles. One thing though, little tractors or big, the principles are the same and the safety issues are the same too. )</font>

Well thanks for the help at any rate, even if it wasn't stimulating conversation /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I'm afraid I'm not much of a motorcycle afficianado anymore, although I did own several when i was younger. The Trumpet's are certainly elegant machines .....

 

[5030]

Actually, the utmost stimulating conversation I have is with my wife "what is for dinner". And, "did you turn the electric blanket on?" /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MadReferee]

Back to the original post.

The latest Surplus Center catalog (#278 2005) has listed the remote control for the prince valves on page 21. The setup is not cheap. Here are the prices:

joystick lever $89.95
control cables $32.95, $35.95, $38.95
valve connection kit for each SV spool $10.95

Total cost for a joystick w/ 2 spool connection would be $177.75 using the shorter (and least expensive) of the cables.

Rock on.

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Rock on. )</font>

Yowouch !!!!

Yeah, think I'll pass - a little too rich for my blood /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It's probably nice for someone who needs the smallest footprint they can get for the controls and has an out of the way location they can mount the valve, but the for those on a budget (like me) it definitely ain't cost effective.

Thanks for the info Paul.

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( joystick lever $89.95 )</font>

They also have a single spool control lever for $27.95

Cheaper than the joystick, but still pricey.