Remotes, what type, how much $ and why?

   / Remotes, what type, how much $ and why? #1  

MtnViewRanch

Elite Member, Advertiser
Joined
Mar 19, 2005
Messages
10,482
Location
4000\' mountains of Southern California
Tractor
Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,
For those of you that have hydraulic remotes.

What are the uses that you intend to use them for? (Top & Tilt) Grapple :confused3:

What type did you get, factory, aftermarket, with float, with detents, electric? :confused2:

How much did the valve cost? :eek:

If you had to buy more than just the valve, what did the other parts that were needed cost?
 
   / Remotes, what type, how much $ and why? #2  
I just got through installing the factory 2nd remote kit on my Kioti DK45S. I plan to use for hyd. top link, lift cylinder on my 6' Pull behind mower, and possibly side tilt also. Factory parts, 1 is detented, one is not.
 
   / Remotes, what type, how much $ and why? #3  
since you asked...
after a month's delay I will soon be starting my remote hydraulic projects...

on the front...

adding a single spool w/PB (Prince 'Wolverine' series, $75) to the loader circuit...this will control a loader bucket grapple

(fabricated myself) using a new tie rod cylinder ($85) and a set of hoses (5 New Kubota Loader hoses) I got on e-bay for $50...
I also bought QD's from 'discount hydraulics' via e-bay for cheap....this new remote can also be used for a hydraulic mower deck lift

or whatever near the front of the tractor...

on the rear...

I'm adding 3 new circuits...had to buy an OEM PB outlet from Kubota ($96...same part cost $68 10 years ago...see thread by 'Bird on adding T&T)...

I bought a second Prince single spool(same as above) and a double spool Cross valve (used $45, e-bay)..I've also bought some miscellaneous hose of various lengths that were too cheap to pass up...I have a box (approximately $100 worth of various fittings connectors and adaptors...mostly ORB and or JIC...including 8' of 3/8 thick wall seamless steel tubing and various flareless fittings. The Cross 2 spool valve will control the Top & Tilt cylinders...the third spool will operate whatever...

One of the things I am in the market for is a large capacity ram that can be used to lift cars etc to put on jack stands etc...
Most of the rams I've seen are single action so I'm not sure if that requires a different valve or not???
 
   / Remotes, what type, how much $ and why? #4  
Brian,
On my 110tlb I opted for the full hydraulics packages which amounts to three front functions, a triple diverter valve and triple rear outlets. On the backhoe I also opted for the 7 function model which includes couplers on the boom for a thumb, hammer or planetary auger.

On my 4520 without a loader I replaced the steel lines going to the middle of the tractor with four 3/8" hoses routed to the rear hitch I reused the couplers to operate the top and tilt functions. I also added the third function valve and outlets for a total of three rear outlets.

With this arrangement I can use topntilt (from Deere) on either tractor and still have the third outlet for other uses such as the hydraulic scarifier or a wheeled disc. I use the joystick's forward and backward (boom) outlets to control the top link cylinder and the joysticks left and right (bucket) outlets to control the tilt cylinder as that seems to be more intuitive. This works the same on both tractors.

I would like to have a fourth valve for a rear blade. Doesn't seem to be an option:( Since both of these are cab tractors adding a valve bank externally poses a problem. I may add a diverter kit to the 4520 which would allow me to get two more circuits to the rear in the future. If I had really thought about it I would have ordered it with the tractor last year.:eek:

If it was important enough to me I could go use the Power Beyond circuit and set it up with electric controlled multispooled valves but that may have to wait until I get a larger tractor. I prefer Comercial Shearing brand pumps, motors and valves. I have had good luck with them and they seem to hold up under continuous daily use.
 
   / Remotes, what type, how much $ and why? #5  
Got my JD 4520 from the factory with the 3rd rear SCV, it has a float position on it.

For $230, added a top link with check valves (CCM), ran it on the 3rd SCV. TnT sounded like a good idea, jenkinsph (aka Steve) was seriously in favor of them so I wanted the TnT on the joystick. Got the sidelink with check valve for $310 (CCM). While the tractor was getting a few repairs done, I paid dealer about $500 to re-route the hydraulic lines to the rear, used the QCs from the front and put them on the back (don't have a loader on the 4520). So for a little over $1K got TnT on the joystick, see enclosed pix.

No good way to route the sidelink to the QCs, have the hoses cleaned up a bit from when I took that pix. If I ever want to add a loader, I'm out the $500 to move the lines (still have the steel lines that came with the tractor). It would cost about $1800 to have the dealer install the diverter, so adding a loader with skid steer quick hitch and grappler and diverter is probably a $10K event, which I would only do if my B21 TLB died.

When I get on to some grading projects, I'll see if the check valves on the toplink are a problem. The joystick has a float position, but with the check valves of course it doesn't do anything for me. Just have to play with it and see, should only be an issue with the land plane. Worst case, buy a non check valve top link. It will take some seat time to figure out if I want to add some sort of restricting orifice to all this. Top link is OK, side link is very touchy. But it's pretty amazing what you can learn to do, so again more seat time needed. Side link sensitivity might also be not enough load on it, so it may behave very differently when there's a box blade or land plane on there. I really got to get out and do some grading...

The usual "if I'd known them what I know now", but that's how it goes. Anyone buying a 4x20 and who plans to use it for landscaping type ground work, should get the diverter, factory TnT, and iMatch. Got lots of good help from Steve and others on the path to the TnT. BTW, also have a iMatch on the 3PH now :thumbsup:

I think that's all the stuff you were asking about...

Pete
 

Attachments

  • small_tnt1.jpg
    small_tnt1.jpg
    375.9 KB · Views: 168
  • small_tnt2.jpg
    small_tnt2.jpg
    454.7 KB · Views: 192
Last edited:
   / Remotes, what type, how much $ and why? #6  
I have factory rear remotes on my Kioti DK 35. (no float, no detents).
I use the remotes for Top and Tilt.
The first set of factory remotes came included with the tractor, the second set I added myself for around $200.
 
   / Remotes, what type, how much $ and why? #7  
I have the Kubota TNT and triple rear remotes and I have the center remote as float detent.

I use the float detent when I am using the rear scraper or BB to keep the wash boarding to a minimum.

I don't remember what the added cost for TNT and the remotes were when I bought the machine but it must have been expensive for me to have blocked it out of my mind.:D

I use one of the rear remotes to operate the grapple till I figure out how I will do it permanently.
 
   / Remotes, what type, how much $ and why?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
My Mahindra 7520 comes from the factory with two rear remotes. They both have float and are detented in all active positions. I added an OEM factory 3rd rear remote to the std 2 that the tractor comes with. It cost $500 and it too has float and is detented in all active positions. Before I got the tractor from the dealer, I had them install the electric over hydraulic front remote for my grapple with the button control in the loader joystick handle. That cost was $900, so that would have been a few hundred dollars less if I had done that myself. Each of those costs included whatever lines, hoses and QDs that were needed to have a complete circuit ready to use. My use for these remotes is for my grapple, "TnT" and for angling my rear blade and rake.

My Mahindra 3215 has an option of one OEM rear remote. It comes with a float position and is detented only in the float position. I paid $500 for this OEM valve as well. I also added two aftermarket valves for my "TnT", one of those valves has float position. I do not remember the cost, as I was doing several hydraulic projects at the same time. With fittings and what not, I'm sure that it was less than $500 though. The OEM valve will be used for angling my landscape rake and smaller rear blade whenever I am able to get one.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0144.JPG
    IMG_0144.JPG
    127.2 KB · Views: 172
  • IMG_0145.JPG
    IMG_0145.JPG
    121.4 KB · Views: 171
  • P4260028.JPG
    P4260028.JPG
    121.4 KB · Views: 174
   / Remotes, what type, how much $ and why? #9  
Kubota L4310 HST had one rear hyd. cicuit added for a Salsco 627 XT 6" chipper.

The loader has a Fasse circuit added to operate a 60" wide WR Long RBG2-60grapple using a button that is now attached to the joy-stick that opens/closes the grapple. Works pretty slick. But it uses fluid from the (curl?) circuit so that can't be used concurrently.

While visiting a Kubota dealer (picking up filters and kinda kickin tires) the new M-series can be optioned with a similar joy-stick button - but they claim you can curl & close grapple at the same time.

If you're shopping new; I'd get 1 for grapple and 2 on rear.
 
   / Remotes, what type, how much $ and why? #10  
The loader has a Fasse circuit added to operate a 60" wide WR Long RBG2-60grapple using a button that is now attached to the joy-stick that opens/closes the grapple. Works pretty slick. But it uses fluid from the (curl?) circuit so that can't be used concurrently.

You basically have a push button diverter valve that changes the work port flow from the curl function to the grapple. They work well, but are a little limiting when wanting to curl and squeeze. Another option available from W.R. Long that is only a little more expensive is a rocker button, also joystick mounted, that operates an actual thrid spool. As long as you have adequate hydraulic flow, that allows you to technically be able to lift, curl and squeeze at the same time. We recommend this over the diverter valve style, but both work well.
 
 
Top