Raspy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2006
- Messages
- 1,636
- Location
- Smith Valley, Nevada
- Tractor
- NH TC29DA, F250 Tremor, Jeep Rubicon
Libertine gave a very good description as to the process. It's very important to back in straight to the backhoe and to make sure the three point hitch arms are released so they can move side to side. Then position them inside the backhoe rail as you back in.
When removing the hoe, the rear disconnect will just remain disconnected and the front will re-connect to another line that is waiting. I also, put the front bucket down and the lever in the "float" position. Shut the engine off.
If you strech out the hoe bucket and arm it will give you the most stable storage on blocks. The stabalizers are your friend as you re-install it. As said, just back up close, connect the lines and use the hoe itself to position it for insertion into the bracket. On and off the tractor for a few movements and on it goes. But come in straight and on center from left to right. Tilt and height don't matter with the hydraulics connected.
Even with everything right, it still seems like a hassle sometimes. And I always manage to get oil on me.
When removing the hoe, the rear disconnect will just remain disconnected and the front will re-connect to another line that is waiting. I also, put the front bucket down and the lever in the "float" position. Shut the engine off.
If you strech out the hoe bucket and arm it will give you the most stable storage on blocks. The stabalizers are your friend as you re-install it. As said, just back up close, connect the lines and use the hoe itself to position it for insertion into the bracket. On and off the tractor for a few movements and on it goes. But come in straight and on center from left to right. Tilt and height don't matter with the hydraulics connected.
Even with everything right, it still seems like a hassle sometimes. And I always manage to get oil on me.