Rotary Cutter Removing blades on brush cutter
- Thread starter PitbullMidwest
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Farmwithjunk
Super Member
I go about it in one of 2 ways.
1st, and most commonly, I leave the mower attached to the tractor, raise the mower (with the 3-point hitch) and put jackstands under the skid rails. I still don't "get under" the mower any farther than just my arms. I have all Bush Hog mowers. (6 different ones currently) They have access openings on the top of the deck to reach the nut/bolt. I use an impact wrench to remove the nut, a punch to drive the bolt out, and then reach under the mower to replace the blade/bolt, re-installing the nut from above.
2nd method is essentially the same, except I hang the rear of the mower off one of my trailers with the front still attached to the tractor.
I sharpen blades in place, using much the same procedure(s).
1st, and most commonly, I leave the mower attached to the tractor, raise the mower (with the 3-point hitch) and put jackstands under the skid rails. I still don't "get under" the mower any farther than just my arms. I have all Bush Hog mowers. (6 different ones currently) They have access openings on the top of the deck to reach the nut/bolt. I use an impact wrench to remove the nut, a punch to drive the bolt out, and then reach under the mower to replace the blade/bolt, re-installing the nut from above.
2nd method is essentially the same, except I hang the rear of the mower off one of my trailers with the front still attached to the tractor.
I sharpen blades in place, using much the same procedure(s).
Rockin' G Ranch
Silver Member
ore540 said:
Do you really have to be sure the blades are not turning before removing them???
ore540
Bronze Member
Rockin' G Ranch said:Do you really have to be sure the blades are not turning before removing them???
I'll bet that when I was young and quick I could have gotten a socket on a spinning blade. But no more, I have to wait for them to stop. Such a waste of time
madpogue
Silver Member
And the irony is, time is the one thing we have so much less of, than when we were younger....ore540 said:Such a waste of time
Whatever you do, I'd recommend you hit the threads with some PB Blaster penetrating oil before starting. Just looking at the size of those lugs/nuts, and given the conditions under which something like a mower lives, they're not gonna come easy.
Anybody know the typical torque setting, when it comes time to reinstall? Yeah, it's gonna vary with the mower, size, etc., but ball park?
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,885
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
On mine, I remove the tail wheel by taking out a couple bolts. Then I can insert a big socket into a hole in the top to get to the nuts on the bolts holding the swing blades. I remove them with a 6' pipe wrench over my socket handle initially, then just use a ratchet handle.
To put them back, I use a couple quick-connect clamps to hold the stump jumper and bolt in place. I use the 6' pipe wrench to "torque" the nuts, just need to judge when I've applied about 80# of push or when the nuts just won't move any more.
I just raise the back of the unit with a floor jack and insert a couple jack stands underneath the back of the unit. There's plenty of room on mine doing this.
Don't see what flipping it over would accomplish other than letter oil come out of the gear box breather and make a mess.
Ralph
To put them back, I use a couple quick-connect clamps to hold the stump jumper and bolt in place. I use the 6' pipe wrench to "torque" the nuts, just need to judge when I've applied about 80# of push or when the nuts just won't move any more.
I just raise the back of the unit with a floor jack and insert a couple jack stands underneath the back of the unit. There's plenty of room on mine doing this.
Don't see what flipping it over would accomplish other than letter oil come out of the gear box breather and make a mess.
Ralph
wedge40
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2007
- Messages
- 2,196
My Bush Hog says the torque is 650 ft/lbs. Remember we're talking a 1 11/16 nut and bolt.madpogue said:
Why they couldn't have gone with 1 3/4 nut and bolt is beyond me.
Wedge
Highbeam
Super Member
Don't forget to retorque those nuts after running the mower for a few hours. I find that they always need to be tightened once after the installation. It is bad news to have a blade come off while mowing.
Also, no need to remove the blades unless you are replacing them. Just sharpen while on the mower and for this activity there is some benefit to flipping the mower on its side. Though I don't do it, I simply reach under the mower with the 4.5" grinder with the mower hanging over the edge of the trailer.
Also, no need to remove the blades unless you are replacing them. Just sharpen while on the mower and for this activity there is some benefit to flipping the mower on its side. Though I don't do it, I simply reach under the mower with the 4.5" grinder with the mower hanging over the edge of the trailer.
OP
PitbullMidwest
Platinum Member
Thanks everyone for all the responses. I'm a bit embarrassed to admit that I had never noticed or paid any attention to the inspection cover on top of the cutter. I pulled it off this weekend and low and behold, there was the nut that attaches the blades to the stump jumper.
The cutter is about 25 years old and has had a rough life. The blades are in bad shape so I'll probably go ahead and replace them. Again thanks for all the replies.
The cutter is about 25 years old and has had a rough life. The blades are in bad shape so I'll probably go ahead and replace them. Again thanks for all the replies.
Rara Avis
Veteran Member
Highbeam said:
So to overcome the bad luck...over which shoulder do you throw the loose blade?...
