removing bush hog blades

[djradz]

gerard, 900+ seems too high to me too. On my dad's KK deck, with the blades blocked from turning, we use all we can deliver with the 3/4" "China-Made" set. Never had one come loose yet. If your still concerned, use some lightweigh (usually blure-colored) locktite on the threads before assembly. I think you'll be fine.

 

[gerard]

I agree 900 seems too high - probably why the stripped them when installing. I put them on last night and just used the 3/4 inch socket with as much as I could put on with a 24 inch socket. They have pretty substantial spring steel split lock nuts that I can't seem them coming off. I'll check them periodically. Kind of a pain to put back on yourself though, need someone to hold the blade and stump jumper in place while you put the nut on the other side.

 

[djradz]

We ususally wedge a 3 foot or so length of 2x4 between the other blade or blade bolt and against one of the hog's side channel to hold the whole assembly from rotating. I can't imagine holding the stump jumper and still trying to turn the 3/4" drive, but hey, if you did it, more power to you.

 

[gerard]

My problem was putting in the bolt while holding the blade and stumpjumper in place and trying to get the threads started from the access hole on the other side. My neighbor helped hold things until I got the threads started. Once that was done I didn't have to brace anything. Turning the nut with the socket forces the socket side against the deck (through the access hole ) so the whole blade assembly doesn't rotate. It was just getting the nut started that was hard as gravity kept pulling the blade/nut/stumpjumper out of the bolt hole with a crash!!

 

[djradz]

Now I understand! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif We've made it a 2-person job as well except once when I used a floor jack to hold the whole shabang up.