Removing exhaust header type, studs

[higgy]

We are pulling for you Richard!

Those bolts and studs are a pain for sure.

Good luck!

 

[GerardC]

Question? Is it possible that they may be a left hand thread? G

 

[mrcaptainbob]

Well, glad that SOMETHING went right! (well, sorta). I've always questioned those stud removers. If the head wasn't strong enough to overcome those threads being rusted.....can't imagine using any other appliance to get it out. I agree with that heat-till-red-and-touch-candle-to-it. Only I use PB. That gets down there even better. Most likely, cherry red, PB and ice cold vicegrips. Yikes! What a recipe!

 

[MicroPilot]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...Only I use PB.... )</font>


What is PB? Peanut Butter? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Actually I kinda know what it is, something along the lines of Kroil, etc. a penetrating oil, but don't know specifically what PB stands for or who makes it.

 

[BubbaJr]

PB Blaster is a "Powerful penetrating catalyst" made by B'laster / B.C.C.I. from Cleveland Ohio, 1-800-858-6605. There are all kinds of claims on the can for what it can accomplish. I've used it several times, and most of the time it will work, but not always. It's worth it to have a can around though. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[SPIKER]

yep: PB is some good $hit manard!" /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ye had it around hewre for years and years, out west I never saw any, unless you mail ordered form Summit racing.

when getting out rusted in studs, hard one. Heat the stud untill cherry, cool like said above, (never tried the candle but was told BEE'S wax worked great.) actually specifically HEATING the HOLE makes it tighter on the STUD (metal expands in all dirrections, which includes tighter onto the stud!) found this out when working for US AF metals guy in the machine shop was a room mate for a bit. he re-did my boat motor free well I paid all parts from dealer but he installed all new helicoils where needed..

I painted his car so I guess it was a wash /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Alum is worse than steel (reason I have a ford OAD trans with 95K on it with factory filter, stupid exposed above the hole bolts, 10 mm and rusted corroded into alum case....)

I was going to take it down and repair it but no shop floor good enough to get under it...

heating the STUD cherry does 2 things

breaks bond (somewhat) between 2 parts.

2. expands the metal stud forcing the surrounding hole appart a bit, then cool stud (gets strenght back into stud and shrinks it to let gap in parts appear.)

3. best thing for installing header bolts is "Philliups Milk of Magnisia" yep stomach stuff. it is ONLY anti sieze AF uses on the Jet Engine after burners control feathers, (those are the parts that actually are squeezing the flame tigher into smaller diamiter!) yes they are bolted on and actually can have 20+ feet of blue flame squirting past them on one side and sub zero air temp on the other side (at altitude can be very sub zero temp /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif ) I have it on my cougars exaust manifolds, had them in and out about 4 or 5 times, never had a stuck bolt since using it! years between removals too...

anyhow somethign to help when re-assembeling them.

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[om21braz]

Good Luck getting the studs out ! Look on the bright side - getting broken studs out requires far less cussing than getting out broken taps.

 

[micromike]

Just another tip...When I've had studs that were rusted/corrodedte etc. and too short to get a vice grip on I've welded a nut to the stud and the a wrench on the nut backs it right out. You may want to try this if you aren't getting a good grip on the nut.

Hey, let us know what worked for you!

Mike

 

[beenthere]

om21
You sure have that right, and I don't want to go there again /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Junkman]

Richard and others.....

All of the replies are correct and I only gave one of the ways to remove a stud. What you have to realize is that there are many different ways to do the job, depending on the material you are working on and the tools that you have. As I said in the original post, stud removers are not much use most of the time. I have used Von's method and I have also tried the wax trick once or twice. The materials that you are working with are the thing that makes the difference and you must learn what works best for each application. The welding of the nut on the stud is an old one, and the reason that it works so well most of the time is that it heats the stud, expanding it. Then when the stud cools, it actually will shrink a little bit. GM used to have studs listed in the parts book in .003" increments up to .006. That was all that it took to get a tighter fit when a stud hole was partially stripped out. After that, it was time for a Heli Coil. The important thing is that you got it off. When reassembling it, get the copper colored anti seize. This is the high temperature stuff. Also, consider using brass nuts and double nut them if possible. Stainless steel studs also if you can find them. Just don't use stainless steel to stainless steel. It will gall under pressure and you will never get it off. This will probably start a whole new debate. I speak from experience and my experiences might be different from others.