Removing lift arm.

[BufordBoone]

I'm installing Top and Tilt on my L5740. The instructions recommend moving the easily adjustable lift arm from the right side to the left, then installing the hydraulic cylinder as the right lift arm.

Sounds great.

The lift arms on the L5740 are held on by a pin that goes thru what appears to be a piece of cast metal and there are two nuts on that screw on to retain it.

I'm having trouble removing the pins. I suspect they have somewhat corroded to the bracket as I've not removed them in a long time.

I managed to get the left one out using an adjustable wrench to work it back and forth and tapping on the nuts. It was difficult and took a while.

The right one is being more problematic. The location of my rear remotes is also hindering getting an adjustable wrench on it. I know it is simply corroded and may take time to remove.

Any recommendations? Would heat help? I can put a propane torch on it it that should help.

I've put penetrating oil on it, am hoping that it will break free tomorrow morning.

I figured asking here in the meantime might get me a solution I'd not thought of by morning.

Thanks, in advance!

 

[gimmodog]

spray penetrating oil on it every 5 minutes, keep it soaked good. I hope you are using a good penetrating oil, Aero-Kroil is the best you can get

 

[fried1765]

I'm installing Top and Tilt on my L5740. The instructions recommend moving the easily adjustable lift arm from the right side to the left, then installing the hydraulic cylinder as the right lift arm.

Sounds great.

The lift arms on the L5740 are held on by a pin that goes thru what appears to be a piece of cast metal and there are two nuts on that screw on to retain it.

I'm having trouble removing the pins. I suspect they have somewhat corroded to the bracket as I've not removed them in a long time.

I managed to get the left one out using an adjustable wrench to work it back and forth and tapping on the nuts. It was difficult and took a while.

The right one is being more problematic. The location of my rear remotes is also hindering getting an adjustable wrench on it. I know it is simply corroded and may take time to remove.

Any recommendations? Would heat help? I can put a propane torch on it it that should help.

I've put penetrating oil on it, am hoping that it will break free tomorrow morning.

I figured asking here in the meantime might get me a solution I'd not thought of by morning.

Thanks, in advance!

Use "Kroil" spray penetrant.
Multiple applications, over several days.
Tap after each application.
Be patient!

 

[BufordBoone]

I'll get some Kroil I've been using PB Blaster.

Thanks, all.

 

[oosik]

A torn off chunk of shop rag - wrapped tightly around the offending nut - soaked in penetrating oil. A lot easier than spraying the nut every five minutes.

 

[newbury]

Use "Kroil" spray penetrant.
Multiple applications, over several days.
Tap after each application.
Be patient!

A torn off chunk of shop rag - wrapped tightly around the offending nut - soaked in penetrating oil. A lot easier than spraying the nut every five minutes.

Both.
Keep it soaking and if you can leave a wrench or vice-grips hanging on it do so. Then tap (or lightly whack) it in both directions (both loosening and tightening). Kroil will creep in slowly.

Warmth is your friend, the 40° temps we've been getting are not good, but better than freezing.

 

[oosik]

I've often found, when doing a project such as this. There will always be one nut, fastener or lynch pin that is a bugger and can hold things up for quite a while. I think Murphy has a play in this game.

 

[BufordBoone]

I think Murphy has a play in this game.

Is Murphy ever NOT around? Ha.

I am actually having fun learning new things. Assuming I get the pin out without damaging anything, this will be chalked up to another learning experience.

Here is a "Hindsight" moment:

To install the backhoe, it is necessary to remove the 3-pt hitch. First time I removed both the lift arms and the draw arms. In looking at it I thought "There doesn't seem to be any reason to remove the lift arms. They will just hang and can be zip tied so as to not flop about. What a time saver!

That was about 5 years ago. Had I been removing them each time I put the backhoe on, I'll bet they wouldn't be stuck now.

What a "timesaver" that is turning out to be.

Learning is fun!

Does anyone think I should put any heat (propane torch is all I've got) on the joint?

 

[Redlands Okie]

For feature reference anti seize thread compound is a handy item to have in the shop.

Patience and keep soaking it and tapping as your doing.

 

[Zebrafive]

I would let the penetrating oil do it's work and skip the heat.

 

[newbury]

I've often found, when doing a project such as this. There will always be one nut, fastener or lynch pin that is a bugger and can hold things up for quite a while. I think Murphy has a play in this game.

If there wasn't something to hang up the project we would have nothing to write about.

<snip>

Does anyone think I should put any heat (propane torch is all I've got) on the joint?

Keep it above freezing It looks like Tuscaloosa isn't going down to frost/freeze conditions anytime soon.

Another good reason to put your location in your profile, like you did.

 

[Leejohn]

I am missing something here!!!! Why are you removing the lower lift arm just to put a cyl. where the right tilt adjuster is??

 

[BufordBoone]

I am missing something here!!!! Why are you removing the lower lift arm just to put a cyl. where the right tilt adjuster is??

I'm installing a hydraulic cylinder for the "Tilt" portion of "Top and Tilt.

The instructions recommend you move the right tilt adjuster to the left side. It is then replaced with the Hydraulic tilt adjuster. This gives maximum adjust-ability.

Perhaps I'm not correctly identifying parts. For refence:

I'm calling the vertical component the "Lift Arm" (one of them has a "tilt adjuster")
I'm calling the horizontal component the "Draw or Draft Arm"

The Lift arms are connected to the draft arms and are what controls the height of the draft arms.

 

[BufordBoone]

I am missing something here!!!! Why are you removing the lower lift arm just to put a cyl. where the right tilt adjuster is??

I'm installing a hydraulic cylinder for the "Tilt" portion of "Top and Tilt.

The instructions recommend you move the right tilt adjuster to the left side. It is then replaced with the Hydraulic tilt adjuster. This gives maximum adjust-ability.

Perhaps I'm not correctly identifying parts. For refence:

I'm calling the vertical component the "Lift Arm" (one of them has a "tilt adjuster")
I'm calling the horizontal component the "Draw or Draft Arm"

The Lift arms are connected to the draft arms and are what controls the height of the draft arms.

 

[Leejohn]

The reason I ask was that I think my 4240 tilt adjuster has pins top and bottom to hold it on with no bolt just a ring. Well double check mine.

 

[BufordBoone]

Got it. Thanks for the advice.

It took patience, penetrating oil, a large adjustable wrench and a bunch of light tapping.

Once it was out, I cleaned the pin and it is amazing how easily it goes in and out and spins around.

I'll be purchasing some Never Seize this week.

 

[Leejohn]

Boy was I wrong sorry about that. They are double nuted and I can see now why you were having trouble. Glad you got it out.

 

[newbury]

Got it. Thanks for the advice.

It took patience, penetrating oil, a large adjustable wrench and a bunch of light tapping.

Once it was out, I cleaned the pin and it is amazing how easily it goes in and out and spins around.

I'll be purchasing some Never Seize this week.

YEAH!!:cool2::cool2::cool2:

Was concerned we had another 100 post thread starting!!

Thanks for posting the conclusion.