Removing Mower Blades

   / Removing Mower Blades #11  
I thought for sure my big honkin sockets would be big enough but I looked and they aren't. I can't get my adjustable wrench on it to measure but my eyeball gives me 1-5/8". What is the size of a brush hog blade nut? I am thinking 1.5" sounds familiar.
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #12  
Highbeam,

When I first did mine, I had to call LandPride and ask a tech for the size of the nut. Mine is a 1 11/16's inch. All there stuff in in Standard sizes.

I had to pay $40 for that socket and I got lucky on Ebay and found a Proter Cable impact wrench that will do 500 foot pounds for $80.

I just tighten it as tight as the impact will get them and figure that's close enough.

It's allot of money for the socket. I've used the impact quite a bit, but that socket has only been used a few times.

Eddie
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #13  
Joe, like Eddie, I had to buy a high priced socket that I used for nothing else. And I had to do it twice! I bought the one to fit my 4' Bush Hog, then later when I got the 5' Howse, it was a different size so I had to buy another one. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #14  
Oh cripes, I'll have to call the manufacturer. I can buy a set of HF 3/4" impact sockets for not much more. But I will need to know the size. I bent something, either a blade or the stumpjumper so that one blade tip swings a good 1.5" higher than the other. I'm hoping it is the blade so I can heat and pound.
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #15  
So after searching it seems 1-11/16" is the most universal nut size out there for the 4-6' decks and from howse to woods.
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #16  
My dealer sells a "kit" which is a 3/4" drive 24"long breakover bar with a big socket. You'll need to put an extension pipe over the breakover bar. I would use another 3 foot of extension to more easily loosen/tighten the nut. Eddie's right, they need around 500 ft/lbs.
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #17  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I bent something, either a blade or the stumpjumper so that one blade tip swings a good 1.5" higher than the other. I'm hoping it is the blade so I can heat and pound. )</font>

Highbeam,

If you heat and bend your blade, you might have strength problems with it. But even more of an issue is wether or not you'll through them out of ballance. I bent one also and found it to be easier to just put new ones on.

The first time it's a pain, but I've done it twice now and it was real easy the second time around.

If it was the stump jumper, I'm clueless on that one. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Eddie
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #18  
I've found that my cheap impact wrench impacts much better if I oil it right before the job. Even your new "pro" one would like that. You didn't mention it, so I thought I'd toss it out for everyone. Glad to hear you got it done.

- Just Gary
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #19  
I'm having trouble sourcing the 1-11/16 socket. Not at NAPA and not included in the sets of big sockets. I guess I'll try a Sears next.

I did discover that the stumpjumper retainer nut had loosened. The big ol' nut with a cotter needed to be tightened a good 1/4 turn which leveled out the blades somewhat. Is there a woodruff key or something similar on the drive spindle to keep the stumpjumper keyed to that shaft? I am gimped up right now so did not want to take the nut off and see what caused it to loosen.

I have had pretty good luck heating things up with a weed burner or rosebud and beating them with the sledge to get them straight. I then let them cool slowly t otry and prevent them from becoming brittle. If it is bent and the repair makes them break then so be it.
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #20  
I doubt you'll find anything large at Sears. I didn't, but maybe you have a better store than I do. LOL

Mine is a Proto and I definiately paid for the name on it!!!

I'd call around first, it's not an easy size to find. Only one place in my town had them.

Eddie
 

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