Removing Mower Blades

   / Removing Mower Blades #21  
Try McMaster-Carr for the socket - they list a 3/4" drive 1-11/16 for $17.66 #5552A79
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #22  
I just paid that much for a single 5/8" drill bit. I would pay it for a good socket of such large size.
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #23  
On my Howse, I think the stumpjumper is on a tapered, splined shaft. I don't know how the center nut could work loose if the cotter pin is still in place and intact, unless the splines have worn somehow or something. Anyway, the center nut on mine was loose too, so I took it off and cleaned and greased the splines and threads before I put it back good and tight, with a new cotter key, hasn't come loose since.............
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #24  
Hot dog! I just found a 1-11/16" by 3/4" drive socket at McLendons which is a local chain of hardware stores. It is labeled as Pro-Grade and then in fine print is Allied International. It was 10$ and then another 6$ for the 3/4 to half inch adapter. I don't have anything with 3/4" drive to spin it.

Once I heal up a bit more, I'll drop the blades and the stump jumper and do an inspect and repair job on these driven parts.
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #25  
Highbeam,
If possible, try to get a 24" long 3/4" drive breaker bar for that big socket. You'll need a lot of leverage to spin that nut. However, I guess 1/2" drive will do? I recall reading where the torque exceeds 500 ft/lbs in some cases? Correct me if I'm wrong...
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #26  
Well I plan to first try and hit it with my craftsman 24" long 1/2" drive breaker bar (lifetime guarantee that I've needed once) just in case it works, I can also bring a cheater pipe. Then I will try and use my impact gun which is also 1/2". If I can't get it of with an impact gun then I will be searching for more manly equipment. The hog is pretty new and has lived a tough life so it hasn't been able to sit around and corrode.

I'll give it a try soon.
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #27  
The 24" breaker bar spun them right off. The access hole was a bit off center which made the socket bind as it went round and round but I got the nuts off. But then.... uh oh, the bolts are not loose. The blades are free swinging but the bolts were tight. I ran the nuts back onto the bolts most of the way and then used my 1/2" drive extension and a big ol' honkin clevis as a hammer to drive the bolts down. They eventually popped down.

The blades don't look bent. Worn but not bent badly.

I decided to drop the stump jumper too. I cut off the big galvanized nail/cotter pin with the dykes and then blocked the slip clutch and spun the big nut off with an adjustable wrench. I again banged on the stumpjumper from above through the blade nut access hole until the stump jumper popped off of its tapered and splined shaft.

Ah hah! The 3/4" thick or so bar that the blades bolt to that is welded to the stumpjumper is in the shape of a smile. It looks like this stump jumper wasn't very good at jumping stumps.

I'll have to heat this bugger up and make the smile turn into a flat bar. That'll be tough since I will have a hard time clamping it down before heating and beating.

I wonder if I should reinforce the stump jumper. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #28  
The 24" breaker bar spun them right off. The access hole was a bit off center which made the socket bind as it went round and round but I got the nuts off. But then.... uh oh, the bolts are not loose. The blades are free swinging but the bolts were tight. I ran the nuts back onto the bolts most of the way and then used my 1/2" drive extension and a big ol' honkin clevis as a hammer to drive the bolts down. They eventually popped down.

The blades don't look bent. Worn but not bent badly.

I decided to drop the stump jumper too. I cut off the big galvanized nail/cotter pin with the dykes and then blocked the slip clutch and spun the big nut off with an adjustable wrench. I again banged on the stumpjumper from above through the blade nut access hole until the stump jumper popped off of its tapered and splined shaft.

Ah hah! The 3/4" thick or so bar that the blades bolt to that is welded to the stumpjumper is in the shape of a smile. It looks like this stump jumper wasn't very good at jumping stumps.

I'll have to heat this bugger up and make the smile turn into a flat bar. That'll be tough since I will have a hard time clamping it down before heating and beating.

I wonder if I should reinforce the stump jumper. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #29  
Hi Rick, I've been removing blades on my mowers and bush hogs for years. First time I did it.....I want say another word on that subject. Anyway its easy for me now, its not the pulling, I lock my blades with a 2x4 and done. Lock your blades!!!
 
   / Removing Mower Blades #30  
Hi Rick, I've been removing blades on my mowers and bush hogs for years. First time I did it.....I want say another word on that subject. Anyway its easy for me now, its not the pulling, I lock my blades with a 2x4 and done. Lock your blades!!!
 

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