Removing old grease around tractor zerk areas

[Jchonline]

I just use those red shop rags. I clean the zerk off right after I grease. That way it doesnt get caked up.

 

[Fuddy1952]

Once clean you could snap a rubber cap over Zerk.

 

[tjandrews]

Don't want tp compromise the paint or infuse water where it should not be....

My 70-year-old Case SC wears its "compromised paint," what there is left of it, with pride. I figure the guys who came back from WW2 and built that tractor built it to be used, not be some kind of show piece. It's been through the mill and back again, and keeps coming back for more.

 

[piper184]

The grease every 10 hours guideline is just a guide. It usually means hours of loader use, not tractor use. Also it does not consider what you are doing with the loader. Moving snow is a whole lot different than working in mud and sand on the edge of the creek. After a while you will get enough experience that you will be able to tell when the joints need grease. I quite often give my bucket pins a squirt or two between greasing the main arms because they are getting much more use with a higher degree of rotation and they are "closer to the action".

If dried on grease is so built up that you can't get the gun on the zerk then you need to clean/scrape until it will work and you can force grease into the joint. As mentioned above, pressure on the joint can block the flow so try moving it first. If it still won't go you need to investigate and make sure the grease is going where it needs. I have seen too many lazy operators just give two pumps and move on, even if the grease just landed on top of the nipple. The shop usually got to clean up the damage the eventually results.

I always carry a rag in my hand as I grease and wipe each zerk clean and keep the gun coupler clean too. That way I can watch and make sure the grease gets inside where it belongs. Excess gets left in place to be wiped away next time around. The "squirt out" is kind of a dust cap that keeps dirt away from the joint. That is my theory and I am sticking to it.

If I can't get grease into a zerk and moving joint doesn't solve it then I pull the zerk and inspect for damage and dried grease. Zerks fail and get replaced when needed. If the old grease is dried and making a plug, I screwed up and missed it the last time around. Usually a solvent is needed to get it loosened up again. WD-40 works in most cases. Also you can buy a tool that will allow you to fill it with a light oil or solvent and hit it with a hammer to drive the solvent into the joint. I have seen these work although since I bought one several years ago, I have never had it out of the package. Cheap insurance, but a good greasing regimen is better.

If you are curious, you could pull a connecting pin or two on your loader (one at a time ) and see how they look. The you will know if you are "doing it right".

 

[tstex]

Great post Piper / thx

 

[showcattle]

I had a guy doing some dozer work . He left his dozer sitting in the pasture for a couple of days. My cows licked clean every grease joint on it.

 

[Ohmanlee]

I pour an inch or two of diesel fuel in a small plastic pail and dip a rag into the diesel when I clean the old grease and caked-on dirt from around the zerks and pivot points on my FEL. Not my favorite chore, but I do clean all the crud that builds up 3-4 times each year.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Chlorinated brake cleaner.

 

[Bill Guenthner]

Hello to all,

Saw a post if you need to grease a tractor/FEL every 10 hrs w low usage. I didn't want to hijack that thread so here we go.

I am for sure guilty of not greasing every 10 hrs, esp w a FEL. I did just reload my grease gun yesterday and hit every zerk. Two questions:

• What is the best way of removing the caked-on grease, sometimes in very tight and hard to get places?
• If a zerk gives you resistance, but finally gives way to extra pressure from g-gun, is the zerk bad or area really clogged?

Just guessing, would spraying some kind of solvent work, then hit w power washer [w lower fan/psi setting]? Don't want tp compromise the paint or infuse water where it should not be....

Thank you very much,
tstex

I leave it alone. Grease is never bad to have on and around moving parts that are put under a load. It’s keeping water and dirt away from the fitting when I’m out in the field. I wipe it off with a shop rag before re-greasing but that’s it. Have you ever seen a rusty zerk? Not on anything I have. Never had one clog either. Did have one fall out once that wasn’t tightened at the factory. I think when they’re clogged, most times it’s because old grease has solidified. That’s hard to clean out. It’s also a good idea to lube all the fittings on attachments before storing in the off season, especially if they sit outside.

 

[Raul-02]

And NO I don't clean up hospital sterile

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