Removing speakers on MT342HC

[Bigfootconcepts]

Any hints? After reading severals posts re the quality of the speakers on my new MT342HC I fully agree. They have to go. However, I am having trouble getting the old speakers out. I assumed I could just remove the 4 screws on each factory speaker and they would fall out. But they don't. After unscrewing them about 1/4" they just rotate. I'm assuming the nut inside the headliner is just rotating on the bolt shaft. How do I get these screws out without removing the whole roof. That seems excessive.

 

[KCTractors]

Any hints? After reading severals posts re the quality of the speakers on my new MT342HC I fully agree. They have to go. However, I am having trouble getting the old speakers out. I assumed I could just remove the 4 screws on each factory speaker and they would fall out. But they don't. After unscrewing them about 1/4" they just rotate. I'm assuming the nut inside the headliner is just rotating on the bolt shaft. How do I get these screws out without removing the whole roof. That seems excessive.

I took a screw driver between the surface and the speaker and pried gently while unscrewing the screw. There is a nut on the other side that will just spin if you don't give it a little pressure. They must install the speakers at the factory with the cab roof off. To install the new speakers, I used sell-taping screw's.

 

[George2615]

The roof is hinged at the rear. one nut on each side and two nuts in front and the roof lifts up. There is a rod inside the roof to support it when lifted.

 

[Avenger]

You need to prop the roof up, as George said above. You gain access to everything above the headliner from up there. If you're going bigger speakers (recommended), you'll need to trim some plastic using a Dremel or something. Its easier to do that from above. You will need a ladder.

 

[Bigfootconcepts]

The roof is hinged at the rear. one nut on each side and two nuts in front and the roof lifts up. There is a rod inside the roof to support it when lifted.

Thanks George, I didn't know it was that easy. Do you happen to know the ceiling height I would need to hinge the roof up? My shop is only 10' 6". Does the roof hinge up at 90 degrees (highest clearance needed) or does it slant when supported by the internal support rod? Any photos?

 

[George2615]

Sorry, no photos but when I raised my roof I only lifted it high enough for the support rod to hold it. Was less than a 45 degree angle which still gave plenty of room to access anything in there. I think the front of the roof was up maybe 2' so pretty sure 10'6" will be high enough. If I recall I had to remove the front cab lights. I made a new bracket across the front of the cab to mount them to.

 

[Bigfootconcepts]

I lifted my LS MT342HC roof today and it was quite easy. Thanks to George and Avenger for suggesting this.

Attached is a photo of it raised. A few things to note: (1) the bolts you remove are those under the edge of the roof not on top (2) the front work lights will have to be removed and (3) don't cut the zip ties holding the support bar inside the roof. They have release tabs on them so they can be re-used (see 2nd photo).

 

[5030]

On my old Kubota's, I remove the roof regularly to clean the AC evaporator and the heater core too.

What I'd do instead of using sheet metal screws to secure the new speakers, I'd use Riv Nuts in the headliner and corresponding machine screws to secure them. HF sells a nice Riv Nut setter (Doyle) and it comes with an assortment of Riv Nuts as well. It's like 30 bucks.

 

[5030]

Not a fan of sheet metal, self tapping screws at all. Riv-Nuts are a much better option and Riv-Nuts can be used over hundreds of times because they are internally threaded and take threaded fasteners. Kind of a no brainer for me.... and they look much more 'professional'.

 

[jlsmith1000]

Kind of an old thread, but since I just did this and others might read this looking for information (which is how I found this thread) I'll go ahead and mention how I did this. Just me, kids are all grown, so how to hold a nut while trying to put the screw in from the bottom? Took a dot of super glue while the speakers were out of the hole, put it on the bottom of the nut, set the nut on the inside of the hole (from inside the cab) where it goes, hand threaded one of the screws to make sure the nut was in the right place, then threaded it back out. Within a couple seconds the super glue was holding the nut in place on the other side and after putting the speakers/covers in the hole I could easily hand start the screws without having anybody outside or running sheet metal or anything other than the screws that came with.