Rennovating a garden

[Foozle]

I have 150' x 30' garden I've been planting for over 20 years. Over time it has become less and less productive. I think I have a couple issues. One is nutrient depletion and the other is a rock hard subsoil. I'm planning on correcting the nutrient issue with compost, manure, etc. As to the subsoil issue, it seems my garden dries up very quickly and I suspect the water just runs off since it can't penetrate the subsoil. Also, the plant roots likely can't penetrate the subsoil either. I've been reading about double digging a garden to loosen the subsoil and I'm wondering if I can use my tractor to assist with this, since most videos I see use a hand approach, which would take forever for me.

I was thinking about scraping all the top soil off the garden and piling along the out edges of the garden with my tractor. My question is what would be best way to break up the subsoil before replacing the top layer? The easiest way would be to use my pto tiller, but not sure that is healthy for the subsoil. I don't have a subsoiler attachment, but I suppose I could buy/rent one. I know people use broadforks manually, but I'm not sure I could even get one to penetrate the subsoil given it is like concrete. Either way I was going to put some compost down before tilling/breaking up the subsoil, then replace the top soil. May need to use a wheel barrow for that approach as I don't think I want to drive my tractor over the garden at this point or ever again in future - I think years of tilling with my heavy tractor has caused the subsoil hardpan issue to begin with.

Any ideas are welcome!

Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

I recommend an All Purpose Plow and a soil test.

I'm planning on correcting the nutrient issue with compost, manure, etc.

If your soil pH is too high or too low, compost and manure will be limited in adding nutrients your plants can absorb.
You may be low in a trace nutrient, still important. Where I live in Florida, supplemental Boron is usually required for optimum plant growth.

Dirt Dog - All Purpose Plow / Field Cultivator REVIEW + PICTURES

Dirt Dog All Purpose Plow / Field Cultivator Dirt Dog Model APP 66-5 Total Width 66", Working Width 62", Five Tines, Weight 284 Pounds, Paid $835.00 (2010) Field Cultivator: A Three Point Hitch mounted, secondary tillage implement, used to perform operations such as soil aeration...

www.tractorbynet.com

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A Kubota L5740 can draw a seven-shank, 66" wide APP to 14" depth through DAMP soil. $1,400 delivered.

An APP will break up your hardpan.

https://www.(Temporarily blocked du...-66in-bar-p/fc-field-cultivator-cain-7-66.htm

 

[jeff9366]

I think years of rototilling the garden with my heavy tractor has caused the subsoil hardpan issue. I don't think I want to drive my tractor over the garden ever again.

It is more likely your roto-tiller, alone, has created the hardpan.

A roto-tiller used once or twice annually, followed by 14" soil aeration with an All Purpose Plow every fourth year is a good garden routine.

You have been working the same ground 20+ years!

 

[2manyrocks]

Removing the topsoil only creates more work. Adding compost would help to loosen the soil and provide plant nutrition. For me, the easiest method is to plow the soil, then add the compost, and then mix the soil and compost together with a cultivator.

 

[jaxs]

At near 60 hp your tractor will pull a single shank sub-soiler full depth. "Fracturing" hard pan makes a remarkable difference in moisture and air penetration. Rather than working at it so hard first year,I'd have a soil analisis,apply reccomended neutrants and compost,till them in then rip hard pan with sub-soiler. Let it rest over winter or plant cover crop and plow it under next spring. Alternatly,throw up beds tall as possible and let them lie over winter. Again,you can plant cover crop on beds. Next spring well in advance of time to plant,put compost in middles then bust beds into middles. 1 or 2 rain-dry cycles will pulverise beds in prep for knocking top off and planting.

 

[RSKY]

At near 60 hp your tractor will pull a single shank sub-soiler full depth. "Fracturing" hard pan makes a remarkable difference in moisture and air penetration. Rather than working at it so hard first year,I'd have a soil analisis,apply reccomended neutrants and compost,till them in then rip hard pan with sub-soiler. Let it rest over winter or plant cover crop and plow it under next spring. Alternatly,throw up beds tall as possible and let them lie over winter. Again,you can plant cover crop on beds. Next spring well in advance of time to plant,put compost in middles then bust beds into middles. 1 or 2 rain-dry cycles will pulverise beds in prep for knocking top off and planting.

Good suggestions. My first thought was soil samples, second thought was to run a subsoiler breaking the hardpan, third was a breaking plow turning the soil over as deep as possible. Suggest running subsoiler in the fall then a cover crop of clover or whatever recommended in your area, then turn it under in the spring. Adding suggested nutrients from the soil sample and tilling it in before planting.

 

[Yander]

Good advice above...
1. soil test before doing anything, to get a baseline.
2. Add organic matter (i.e. leaves, manure, grass clippings. Till them in in the fall and they have the winter to break down and become worm food.
3. When soil test comes back you may choose to amend those nutrients or see if the organic matter has provided enough nutrients to make a difference. Chances are and depending on what you are growing, it will make a difference.

If you add organic matter and you are concerned that the breakdown may deplete the soil while it is breaking down, plant peas or beans in those areas the first year, or add nitrogen like urea (45% Nitrogen) on top the surface to aid in the replenishing of the nitrogen, especially for corn and other high nitrogen feeders. Don't add wood chips, mulch or any organic matter that would take more than six months to break down. They will steal the nitrogen from the soil during their breakdown. A worm cannot help you break down a wood chip, in six months, but it can help you break down a blade of grass and a leaf. This is why folks have worm farms. I put the organic matter in my garden to bring the worms, they bring the worm castings.

I have never subsoiled my garden, not that I shouldn't, I know farmers do it so it must be good. Most veggies don't go below a foot deep. So in lieu of subsoiling, get some organic matter on that soil and work it in this fall.

I lot of how you need to amend depends on what you are putting in the garden too.

What do you normally grow?

 

[jyoutz]

I recommend an All Purpose Plow and a soil test.

I'm planning on correcting the nutrient issue with compost, manure, etc.

If your soil pH is too high or too low, compost and manure will be limited in adding nutrients your plants can absorb.
You may be low in a trace nutrient, still important. Where I live in Florida, supplemental Boron is usually required for optimum plant growth.

Dirt Dog - All Purpose Plow / Field Cultivator REVIEW + PICTURES

Dirt Dog All Purpose Plow / Field Cultivator Dirt Dog Model APP 66-5 Total Width 66", Working Width 62", Five Tines, Weight 284 Pounds, Paid $835.00 (2010) Field Cultivator: A Three Point Hitch mounted, secondary tillage implement, used to perform operations such as soil aeration...

www.tractorbynet.com

Attachments

• 
  DSC00359.jpg

  1.1 MB · Views: 225
• 
  DSC00362.jpg

  1.1 MB · Views: 250

A Kubota L5740 can draw a seven-shank, 66" wide APP to 14" depth through DAMP soil. $1,400 delivered.

An APP will break up your hardpan.

https://www.(Temporarily blocked du...-66in-bar-p/fc-field-cultivator-cain-7-66.htm

I second this option. A have a Fred Cain cultivator that is basically the same as the dirt dog (shown in EA video). This will break up the subsoil to about 17” deep.

 

[jeff9366]

I believe the Fred Cain APP, Bush Hog (brand) APP and Dirt Dog APP all emanate from the same plant. The only differences are the decals.

 

[jyoutz]

I know the Fred Cain manufacturer is located in Danford, KY.