I am new to the tractor world and am in the process of purchasing a new tractor. I am going to completely redo my lawn this spring and was wondering what would be the best implement or implements for the job? I would rather not spend more than $2000 for the implements needed. What suggestions can you offer?
Renovating Lawn. What is best implement?
- Thread starter hilden31
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daBear
Gold Member
Need a bit more info. Are you re doing a half acre or 5 acres? What is there now? Are there ruts and washes to be smoothed out? Are you starting completely over with a different type of grass?
The answers can vary widely by what you have going on. You could get a tiller for $1500 or so and be happy, or several other options.
The answers can vary widely by what you have going on. You could get a tiller for $1500 or so and be happy, or several other options.
It is about an acre and is level ground. There are no ruts, but there are some low spots that I would like to eliminate. There is grass right now, but it never grew very well. The contractor used a conservation mix and it was very spotty so I will be changing the type of grass seed.
Someone I spoke with the other day said that a pulverizer would work well, but from what I have read on other posts it would only be good for a brand new lawn. All input is greatly appreciated.
Someone I spoke with the other day said that a pulverizer would work well, but from what I have read on other posts it would only be good for a brand new lawn. All input is greatly appreciated.
jrlandscaping
New member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 14
You have a few options...if you had a pic I could lead you in the better direction.
1) Rent an overseeder from your local rental yard. Landpride offers a 48" unit that mounts on your 3 pt and is powered with your PTO. There are vertical blades in the front that slice the ground, then seed drops in behind, and finally a cultipacker in the back that rolls the seed firmly in place. With this unit you would just go over what you have now. Two passed perpendicular to each other. Typical rental charge is $200. This would not fill in your low areas. But you could bring in some topsoil and spread with your loader?
2) Again rent or purchase a rototiller and landscape rake (with gage wheels). If you have a lot of rocks though, this option may not be the best. The rototiller will take a beating.
3) Go the old farm way, buy a moldboard plow, disc, and some type of harrow drag. You can use these items every year for your garden as well!
4) Lastly and probably the best tool by far is the harley rake. New these are $6,000. Again you should be able to rent one for about $250 a day. Awesome tool, 3 in 1, replaces the rototiller, box blade and landscape rake. Go over a couple times for your rough pass, then angle it and take a light skim pass, you will have a perfectly smooth seedbed. It will windrow any and all junk (rocks, stones, sticks, etc.) off to one side for disposal.
1) Rent an overseeder from your local rental yard. Landpride offers a 48" unit that mounts on your 3 pt and is powered with your PTO. There are vertical blades in the front that slice the ground, then seed drops in behind, and finally a cultipacker in the back that rolls the seed firmly in place. With this unit you would just go over what you have now. Two passed perpendicular to each other. Typical rental charge is $200. This would not fill in your low areas. But you could bring in some topsoil and spread with your loader?
2) Again rent or purchase a rototiller and landscape rake (with gage wheels). If you have a lot of rocks though, this option may not be the best. The rototiller will take a beating.
3) Go the old farm way, buy a moldboard plow, disc, and some type of harrow drag. You can use these items every year for your garden as well!
4) Lastly and probably the best tool by far is the harley rake. New these are $6,000. Again you should be able to rent one for about $250 a day. Awesome tool, 3 in 1, replaces the rototiller, box blade and landscape rake. Go over a couple times for your rough pass, then angle it and take a light skim pass, you will have a perfectly smooth seedbed. It will windrow any and all junk (rocks, stones, sticks, etc.) off to one side for disposal.
Attachments
First thing I would do is get a soil sample to see whats really going on. Then based upon the results you can plan your attack for added any amendments to the soil.
There are many attachments that will do the job obviously some better than others. First thing, Harley Rake = $$$$. If you can rent one great otherwise not worth the money for one time use unless you know you can get rid of it without trouble. If you already plan on totally starting over, I would recommned the tiller route, that way you can use the implement for garden, etc.. later on. Just don't till too deep becuase it will cause the ground to be lumpy later. Till in the amendments, lime, fert, whatever then drag it smooth with a piece of chainlink fence and you should be ready to plant. Some use seeder that will place the seeds and then cover with the perfect amount of soil however I have had great luck just using a push spreader then lightly dragging over the seed or use a roller to get go seed to soil contact. Main thing, keep it moist but don't have alot of runoff. Pray that rain dosen't wash it out.
There are many attachments that will do the job obviously some better than others. First thing, Harley Rake = $$$$. If you can rent one great otherwise not worth the money for one time use unless you know you can get rid of it without trouble. If you already plan on totally starting over, I would recommned the tiller route, that way you can use the implement for garden, etc.. later on. Just don't till too deep becuase it will cause the ground to be lumpy later. Till in the amendments, lime, fert, whatever then drag it smooth with a piece of chainlink fence and you should be ready to plant. Some use seeder that will place the seeds and then cover with the perfect amount of soil however I have had great luck just using a push spreader then lightly dragging over the seed or use a roller to get go seed to soil contact. Main thing, keep it moist but don't have alot of runoff. Pray that rain dosen't wash it out.
Thanks for the great information. I will look into the overseeder that you suggested and fill in the low spots. Any idea how much the landpride model would cost to purchase that was recommended?
One other question...what would a pulverizer be best used for?
One other question...what would a pulverizer be best used for?
jrlandscaping
New member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 14
The landpride overseeder runs about $7,000 new. Better to rent one. The pulverizer..you can google it to see what it looks like. That would work as well. New about $1200. Just depends on how much grass or weeds are there now. If you can post a pic I think we all could suggest the best route, but it sounds like you are looking for an excuse to tell the wife that you need to buy some tools. Can't blame ya!
dqdave1
Veteran Member
Rent a harley rake; after you play with it you will be amazed at what you can do with it.
jeffinsgf
Veteran Member
Guys, guys, guys....the man said he wants to renovate, not rip out and replace. Every recommendation given so far is for equipment that would be required to create a new lawn from scratch, not work with what is already there. Not only that, but investing in that kind of equipment isn't a wise investment, unless you're going into the business.
Here's my advice, Hilden, and it's not only what I suggest, it is what I have done personally. You need a core aerator. Few things will revitalize your lawn like core aeration. It is an implement that you will use at least a couple times a year from now until you give up. The next thing you need is a topdressing spreader. Broadcast spreaders won't do (you may need one of them, too, at a later date). A topdressing spreader (or topdresser) will spread a uniform layer of any material on your yard. I topdress with compost a couple times a year and sand at least once. There are lots of different styles in a wide variety of price ranges, but those two items can be had within your stated budget.
Aerating and topdressing will eliminate the compaction in your yard, prepare the site for overseeding (easily done by hand) and eventually smooth out the humps and bumps and dips. They are long term processes that you need to repeat a couple times a year, every year, so owning the implement makes good sense.
Here's my advice, Hilden, and it's not only what I suggest, it is what I have done personally. You need a core aerator. Few things will revitalize your lawn like core aeration. It is an implement that you will use at least a couple times a year from now until you give up. The next thing you need is a topdressing spreader. Broadcast spreaders won't do (you may need one of them, too, at a later date). A topdressing spreader (or topdresser) will spread a uniform layer of any material on your yard. I topdress with compost a couple times a year and sand at least once. There are lots of different styles in a wide variety of price ranges, but those two items can be had within your stated budget.
Aerating and topdressing will eliminate the compaction in your yard, prepare the site for overseeding (easily done by hand) and eventually smooth out the humps and bumps and dips. They are long term processes that you need to repeat a couple times a year, every year, so owning the implement makes good sense.
Blagadan
Gold Member
The best implement for renovating a lawn... your check book...!
I spent 2 years doing my lawn, weekends of picking stones, raking, levelling, filling low spots, etc.... It is still not perfect but is better than most.
My brother, on the other hand, got in a contractor who pulled up with 2 trucks full of equipment and a bunch of guys. They tilled, levelled, seeded and rolled, job was done in less than 2 days..... and after 1 year, his lawn is amazing...
my 2c......
I spent 2 years doing my lawn, weekends of picking stones, raking, levelling, filling low spots, etc.... It is still not perfect but is better than most.
My brother, on the other hand, got in a contractor who pulled up with 2 trucks full of equipment and a bunch of guys. They tilled, levelled, seeded and rolled, job was done in less than 2 days..... and after 1 year, his lawn is amazing...
my 2c......
jeffinsgf
Veteran Member
hilden31 said:
A pulverizer is going to completely destroy whatever turf you already have. It is going to be a "rip it out and start over" solution. An aerator works to improve the turf that already exists. The pulverizer is an example of a poor investment, in my opinion. If you need something like that, rent it. Why buy an implement that you should only need one time?
The OP did say renovate but he did also say "completely redo" as well so it is easy to see why the majority of use gave the ideas we did. I would second the recommendation for the aerator, definitely worth owning one. I am not completely sure the topdresser is such a great idea, even though I would love to have one. From any reseach I have done, you are gonna spend at least a $1000 for a cheap one and guess what you get to use it once or twice a year (depending on time) like the aerator. Now if you are gonna hire your topdressing services, you can probably make some good money doing it and may be worth it. I look forward to hearing some recommendations on a topdresser.
It really depends on how fast you want all the problems fixed. Aerating should give you fairly quick results but likely 3 years to see full benefit and topdressing with compost & sand will solve some nutritional issues and fill in low spots, but it will take time. If you "completely redo" it by tilling it up, you can address all the issues at one time. Thats not say the issues won't arise again. You should still aerate when there is compaction and spreading the compost can definately reduce the need for other fertilization. That is really nice with fert prices now. Oh yeah, make sure to get a soil test.
It really depends on how fast you want all the problems fixed. Aerating should give you fairly quick results but likely 3 years to see full benefit and topdressing with compost & sand will solve some nutritional issues and fill in low spots, but it will take time. If you "completely redo" it by tilling it up, you can address all the issues at one time. Thats not say the issues won't arise again. You should still aerate when there is compaction and spreading the compost can definately reduce the need for other fertilization. That is really nice with fert prices now. Oh yeah, make sure to get a soil test.
jeffinsgf said:
jeffinsgf
Veteran Member
hilden31 said:
I bought a used one off eBay and rebuilt it. It is an original Turfco Mete-R-Matic tow behind model. I ended up with an 8000 dollar spreader for about 1500 in purchase price and repairs. However, not everyone is into rebuilding junk equipment. If I were buying a new unit today, it would probably be an Earth & Turf MultiSpread 200 Earth & Turf - America's Compact Topdresser Company
For an aerator to use on your own lawn, you just can't beat the deal going on right now from Turf-Aire on the Pro-Aire: PRO-AIRE Core Aerator If I didn't already have a Turfco, I would jump on that 36" unit for $449. I paid more than double that for a 42".
getindirty
Member
nice reply Jeff,
Now in our internet age and instant credit who wants to wait years for it to be right? Just rip it up and start over. Plant the type and variety of grass that you want and enjoy all of your hard work as it grows.
Just kidding. Fill in the low spots. Use a good weed killer <55 degree soil temp and get a good pre em herbicide. Wait 2 wks the over seed 5 lb per 1000 sq ft min. 10 lb per 1000 sq ft for new areas. Fertilize at the same time you seed. Dont forget the water. Seed and fert $100 for 10,000 sq ft over seed.
Equipment. Loader tractor for filling in low areas. Box blade, or rear blade for grading new dirt. Don't cut when you are close to grade. Try the rear blade facing backwards or the box blade tipped up. Drag a piece of chain link fence to make it purdy. A bradcast spreader for seed and fert is cheap but won't work on a tractor. A roller with no water for seed to soil contact. This is the poor mans way out.
Renting a overseeder is +$200 for a day and you could plant 2-3 acres a day if all is ready. A power rake you can prep 2-3 acres for a new lawn in a day if there is not to much debris.
Now in our internet age and instant credit who wants to wait years for it to be right? Just rip it up and start over. Plant the type and variety of grass that you want and enjoy all of your hard work as it grows.
Just kidding. Fill in the low spots. Use a good weed killer <55 degree soil temp and get a good pre em herbicide. Wait 2 wks the over seed 5 lb per 1000 sq ft min. 10 lb per 1000 sq ft for new areas. Fertilize at the same time you seed. Dont forget the water. Seed and fert $100 for 10,000 sq ft over seed.
Equipment. Loader tractor for filling in low areas. Box blade, or rear blade for grading new dirt. Don't cut when you are close to grade. Try the rear blade facing backwards or the box blade tipped up. Drag a piece of chain link fence to make it purdy. A bradcast spreader for seed and fert is cheap but won't work on a tractor. A roller with no water for seed to soil contact. This is the poor mans way out.
Renting a overseeder is +$200 for a day and you could plant 2-3 acres a day if all is ready. A power rake you can prep 2-3 acres for a new lawn in a day if there is not to much debris.
