Repainting the 135
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streamin
Gold Member
Paint and body has been my profession for over 20 years, I'd be glad to answer any questions.They make a small sprayer that comes with a glass cup that will spray an area of lets say a tailgate on a truck, you can buy the quality paint to use with it.2 or 3 of those should do the job, no guns or compressor.
Spray can paint allows moisture to penetrate it over time, you will be sorry when your stripping it off again to do it right.
Spray can paint allows moisture to penetrate it over time, you will be sorry when your stripping it off again to do it right.
2manyrocks
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Streamin, I just got done painting the frame on a Cub Cadet while I had it torn down. A friend who restores them said I should have just bought automotive paint for ease of application and durablity versus the tractor store paint I bought for about $30.00 gallon.
So what do you suggest about painting one of these Yanmars--say the hood and fenders are Yanmar red and the body is black?
Would you steam clean it--how would you handle the prep work with all these irregular surfaces?
Then what kind of paint would you suggest and how to apply it?
So what do you suggest about painting one of these Yanmars--say the hood and fenders are Yanmar red and the body is black?
Would you steam clean it--how would you handle the prep work with all these irregular surfaces?
Then what kind of paint would you suggest and how to apply it?
mark777
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Not to challenge your experience Steamin...but IMHO the YM135 like all the smaller Yanmars has considerable sheet metal that's one color, wheels and grille another color and finally the engine, transmission, rear end and frame all another color.
The small (1 pint) glass guns with propellant would, at minimum, be a race to keep the chemistry from flashing too fast. Even using a decent acrylic automotive finish with slow reducers and catalyst...a painter would be chasing his tail due to insufficient material, coverage and judging flash times between coats (passes). I don't see how a good painter could achieve satisfactory results with BC/CC Urethane's either.
I have to say the gun you've describe, I've used for graphics, ghost flames and Logos...and worked excellent for projects no bigger than motorcycle tanks, side covers and fenders. I've finished those same projects with my SATA for the clears.
In this instance, an inexpensive gravity fed gun (like HF sells) or a step up to an HVLP gravity fed gun...like Lowes or Home Depot's Ingersoll or Cobalt $100. guns will give a novice a very good chance at a successful first attempt.
Having said all this, one will still need to barrow, beg or rent a small compressor.
Just my 2 cents,
Mark
The small (1 pint) glass guns with propellant would, at minimum, be a race to keep the chemistry from flashing too fast. Even using a decent acrylic automotive finish with slow reducers and catalyst...a painter would be chasing his tail due to insufficient material, coverage and judging flash times between coats (passes). I don't see how a good painter could achieve satisfactory results with BC/CC Urethane's either.
I have to say the gun you've describe, I've used for graphics, ghost flames and Logos...and worked excellent for projects no bigger than motorcycle tanks, side covers and fenders. I've finished those same projects with my SATA for the clears.
In this instance, an inexpensive gravity fed gun (like HF sells) or a step up to an HVLP gravity fed gun...like Lowes or Home Depot's Ingersoll or Cobalt $100. guns will give a novice a very good chance at a successful first attempt.
Having said all this, one will still need to barrow, beg or rent a small compressor.
Just my 2 cents,
Mark
FL_Jerry
Silver Member
Mark, do those HVLP guns require a special compressor or will a 30 gal
regular old compressor work?
regular old compressor work?
mark777
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Jerry, No, no special equipment or compressors are necessary.
The newer line of gravity fed HVLP guns, ranging in prices from $139. to $500+. require less than half the pressures that were necessary for the older siphon fed guns (or = 11.4 CFM @ 29 PSI at the gun tip).
The two most significant improvements with the HVLP guns are (1-) the transfer efficiency I.E. two quarts of unreduced, uncatalyzed paint will cover 50%-70% more than a siphon gun...(or a siphon gun will use a gallon+ of the same material) and (2) the decrease in atomized volatile organic compounds (over-spray). You can, quite literally, paint twice as much....or buy half as much paint. And if you've purchase any of the high line paint materials and related chemistry, that is a big difference in money saved.
Mark
The newer line of gravity fed HVLP guns, ranging in prices from $139. to $500+. require less than half the pressures that were necessary for the older siphon fed guns (or = 11.4 CFM @ 29 PSI at the gun tip).
The two most significant improvements with the HVLP guns are (1-) the transfer efficiency I.E. two quarts of unreduced, uncatalyzed paint will cover 50%-70% more than a siphon gun...(or a siphon gun will use a gallon+ of the same material) and (2) the decrease in atomized volatile organic compounds (over-spray). You can, quite literally, paint twice as much....or buy half as much paint. And if you've purchase any of the high line paint materials and related chemistry, that is a big difference in money saved.
Mark
2manyrocks
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How would you get a typical tractor ready to paint and what paint would you use?
jimmer2880
Platinum Member
Using a gravity HVLP, I (rather, a buddy of mine) painted a 6.5x10 utility trailer I built with a small 2-tank compressor like this one:
Heavy-Duty 2-1/2 Max HP 4 Gallon Side Stack Electric Hand Carry Compressor
It wasn't the best, but did the job. It's just not what I would use if I painted every day.
Heavy-Duty 2-1/2 Max HP 4 Gallon Side Stack Electric Hand Carry Compressor
It wasn't the best, but did the job. It's just not what I would use if I painted every day.
mark777
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2manyrocks said:
Well, LOL, Like Steamin or Whiskey, a hundred different journeyman painters will do it a hundred different ways. Ultimately, and I think the majority of experienced painters would agree, It's about working clean and ever conscious of the two most common based chemicals that have no prejudice when it comes to destroying $30. or $900. a gallon paint. Petroleum AND Silicone based products like WD40, Power Blaster, Power Booster, Sta-bil, Armour All, Car Polish, Wax, engine, hydraulic and gear oils, and even french fries or KFC can, and DO become airborne contaminants that will ruin your top coat in the first or second gun pass.
After years of production, industrial and custom painting you adopt a specific discipline about getting ready. This is what I do...and certainly NOT the only way to do it:
*Remove all attachments/implements and any ancillary items like fender handles, indicator lamp assemblies, hood and grille bright-work (emblems) and FEL is so equipped. Pressure wash everything...everywhere and at some distance from your painting area (shop, booth, lean-to or shed).
*Using a strong solution of 50% laundry detergent and water in a 1+ gallon container and a good clean (or new) large parts brush, brush everything with copious amounts of the cleaning solution. Garden hose rinse, and repeat until your satisfied that ALL the diesel, gas, grease and dirt are thoroughly dissolved and gone.
*Power wash....again, and let dry.
*Once in the shop, remove** all the sheet metal, battery, wheels once the tractor is jacked up - level and supported with jack stands.
(**One can...and often does mask everything with tape and paper, but IMO it takes less time to do so and the results are not nearly as good when items are removed, tagged and bagged and reassembled.)
To condense the rest of the story, a good "How To" book on basic body work and paint preparation will give any beginner the necessary mental tools (and confidence) to finish the paint work.
I have used everything from TSC's (Valspar) BPS paints and their "Restoration Series" paints all the way up to the high end DuPont or PPG Base Coat-Clear Coat (BC/CC) Urethane's. The more you spend on the paint and related chemicals...the better and longer the completed job will last.
Apologize for the long winded response.
Mark
