Repair/Replace Trailer Floor

   / Repair/Replace Trailer Floor #1  

lakngulf

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2009
Messages
1,086
Location
Lake Martin Alabama
Tractor
Kioti CK30
The floor in my 16 ft trailer has begun to rot. Today the first little 12 inch section fell thru. That board and a few next to it will give way soon. What are the secrets to repairing or replacing these boards? I see channel iron at each end and the boards seem to be inside the iron at both ends. How'd they do that? No bolts that I can find.
 
   / Repair/Replace Trailer Floor #2  
mine is the same way looks like they weld the one strap on after the boards are already mounted. I only replaced one board so i bottomed it out under one end and cut it to be able to drop down and then scooted it under the steel strap. Instead of now having a full 1 1/2" under each end I only have 3/4". If i was going to replace all the boards i would take the cutting wheel or torch and take the hold down strap off one end (the front one on mine looks like the easiest).
 
   / Repair/Replace Trailer Floor #3  
Do a search as there have been threads on decking that explain what you have to do.:)
 
   / Repair/Replace Trailer Floor #4  
Easy job. Look under the trailer for hoses in wires first. Now take your chainsaw or a sawzall and cut each board from left to right somewhere near the center of the trailer. Remove the boards.

Now cut the new board to length and start by installing the first few at an angle and tapping into place with a small sledgehammer. The last two or three boards should be the ones in the center to go in. You will need a 15 inch piece of 2x4, a sledgehammer, and a fat buddy. Place each board in the front channel and stand the 2x4 on end off of the rear axle. Now have your buddy stand on the backside of the deck board with the end near the cap made out of the steel channel. This will bow the deck board. With you swinging a sledge hammer knock the 2x4 out in one motion and it will snap into place.

I do them by myself all the time by hitching the trailer to the truck and using my FEL to do the bowing versus a fat buddy using its down pressure.

Chris
 
   / Repair/Replace Trailer Floor #5  
I thought you did like Chris said for side pieces and then selected the special "pre bent" pieces at Lowes or Home Depot and then after fitting them in soaked them and put weight on them to straighten them out.

Isn't that why all the Lowes and Home Depot I go to have those precurved boards? Or are they for boat builders?
 
   / Repair/Replace Trailer Floor #6  
After all that beating and banging you usually need new lightbulbs.
 
   / Repair/Replace Trailer Floor #8  
   / Repair/Replace Trailer Floor #9  
The way Diamonpilot has suggest sounds like a game plan, I've replaced boards before but only after already having cut the frame at the rear to drop a dove-tail into the trailers, then the boards are miter together and bolted down, I'm wondering if on the last 2 or 3 boards could they not be cut a bit short? to allow easier bowing into place, and then divide the difference, Perhaps bolting these boards down in the middle to keep from moving;)
 
   / Repair/Replace Trailer Floor #10  
The way Diamonpilot has suggest sounds like a game plan, I've replaced boards before but only after already having cut the frame at the rear to drop a dove-tail into the trailers, then the boards are miter together and bolted down, I'm wondering if on the last 2 or 3 boards could they not be cut a bit short? to allow easier bowing into place, and then divide the difference, Perhaps bolting these boards down in the middle to keep from moving;)

I would not cut the center ones shorter. Boards shrink over time.

It's a easy job. I can do a trailer in 30 minutes. You guys are over thinking this.

Chris
 

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