repair tool recommendations please

[Robert_in_NY]

I have a rather large collection of hand tools and can do almost any repair in the field or in the shop but there are some tools I either don't have or need better quality versions of. My main thought right now is dealing with broken bolts, grease fittings and such. So I am wondering who makes quality tools for dealing with these situations? I had some nuts stripped on the discbine and they were recessed and I had to use a 1/2" cold chisel to split them but would have prefered a 1/4". So I am curious about new sets of chisels, tap and die sets and extractors for stripped/broken bolts and nuts. Also, I have found I definitely need a new set of drill bits for steel, the existing bits I have are a mixed match set and are in need of replacing. I don't want any of the junk items that break just looking at metal though as I have no use for it. Thanks for any suggestions as to brands or places to purchase.

 

[workinallthetime]

broken bolt extraction is going to be a heated debate on here. i spent years as a mechanic removing broken exhaust studs from gm 454 engines in large trucks. if you can find them rigid makes a easy out that is fluted so it does not apply outward pressure on the fastener when driven into the pilot hole you drill. They work great but bolt extraction is as much luck as it is skill. i have tried every can of penitrating oil i could get my hands on, nothing beats GM heat riser penitrant, the stuff is toxic and made to work on rusty bolts.
drill bits, i have everything from cheep stanly's to diamond tips used to remove broken drill bits and taps. its best to learn the feel, know when to use heat and how much heat, go slow and be precise in your movements.

 

[RickB]

Mayhew makes or has made punches and chisels for most if not all the 'tool truck' brands. You can usually buy Mayhew for 1/2-2/3 the cost of Matco or SnapOn. The square fluted extractors are my preference and all premium brands perform the same, including those sold by NAPA. Left handed drill bits are the most valuable extraction tool I own.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Thanks guys, I will look to add your suggestions to my shop. I have a broken lug bolt in a NH running gear that I need to remove and am thinking of trying to weld a nut to that first and try that way since its easily accesible. If not it may be a great time to try the left hand drill bits and square fluted extractors.

 

[Baby Grand]

Thanks guys, I will look to add your suggestions to my shop. I have a broken lug bolt in a NH running gear that I need to remove and am thinking of trying to weld a nut to that first and try that way since its easily accesible. If not it may be a great time to try the left hand drill bits and square fluted extractors.

Caution - no arc welding across a bearing - don't want to tack your rolling elements or together! If you can separate the hub from the axle, that would be best. If not, attaching the ground directly to the stud would be riskier, but safer than nothing.

 

[Sackett2]

nothing beats GM heat riser penitrant, the stuff is toxic and made to work on rusty bolts.

Agreed; 100%

 

[Soundguy]

I've used fluted and spiral extractors.. right now having good luck with a set of mac's square profile fluted extractors.. as with anything.. not cheap, but they work pretty decent.. don't seem to expand the bolts and dig in real good with that square profile. havn't broke any.. yet.

have some spiral ones that work ok.. just hit or miss with them.

I run 2 sets of tap and dies. a sea and metric set I colelcted at flea markets.. and yard sales.. good old american tool names, and I also have a faily comprehensive set of taps and dies from thecheap store. i use those in places i don't want my good tools on,, like chasing gritty sand/dirt out of threaded castings on tractors.. etc. chinese chase can do that fine... and not wear out my gooduns. Have a less complete set of midgrade hansens.. they have been fine for the smaller bolt and machine thread sizes.

chissles? good ones.. buy older ones.. again.. while i do usually have some chinese difts and punches and chissles, for dirt work.. they are not as tempered, mushroom more, and chip more thangood older ones.

soundguy

 

[jimmysisson]

It takes more buying trips, but except for drill bits and smaller wrenches, a set of something contains quite a few sizes you never use. Sometimes sets are put on sale, and singles rarely are, but I sure have taps, Allen wrenches, and punches that look brand new. There's always that one time, though....
Jim

 

[Robert_in_NY]

It takes more buying trips, but except for drill bits and smaller wrenches, a set of something contains quite a few sizes you never use. Sometimes sets are put on sale, and singles rarely are, but I sure have taps, Allen wrenches, and punches that look brand new. There's always that one time, though....
Jim

I agree that with sets you may never use some of the items but usually the set has a better price then buying everything individually. Plus, sets usually have a storage package to help keep them orgainized. I have found I use almost all of my tools as I work on cars/trucks, tractors (new and old, 20hp to 100hp), motorcycles, bikes, atvs ..... so I do end up using a lot of different sizes and its nice having the proper tool when I need it.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I've used fluted and spiral extractors.. right now having good luck with a set of mac's square profile fluted extractors.. as with anything.. not cheap, but they work pretty decent.. don't seem to expand the bolts and dig in real good with that square profile. havn't broke any.. yet.

have some spiral ones that work ok.. just hit or miss with them.

I run 2 sets of tap and dies. a sea and metric set I colelcted at flea markets.. and yard sales.. good old american tool names, and I also have a faily comprehensive set of taps and dies from thecheap store. i use those in places i don't want my good tools on,, like chasing gritty sand/dirt out of threaded castings on tractors.. etc. chinese chase can do that fine... and not wear out my gooduns. Have a less complete set of midgrade hansens.. they have been fine for the smaller bolt and machine thread sizes.

chissles? good ones.. buy older ones.. again.. while i do usually have some chinese difts and punches and chissles, for dirt work.. they are not as tempered, mushroom more, and chip more thangood older ones.

soundguy

Thanks, thats a good idea about a set of cheap taps for rough work and a good set for the jobs that matter. I grew up with cheap tools, my dad set me up with a set of cheap basic tools at a young age to get me going as a kid. They worked good till I got older. I need good, reliable tools now and I don't mind paying for quality since when I need a tool I need it and I need it to do its job without breaking or causing more work. As my farm operation expands so does my need for tools.

I have a cheap set of drifts and chisels that have got me by but I have found in the last year or two that they are lacking and teh chisels are not good for what I want to do. They work to help drive a nut loose but I won't use them to split a nut. I can probably get by with just a good 1/4" one in addition to my half inch one.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Caution - no arc welding across a bearing - don't want to tack your rolling elements or together! If you can separate the hub from the axle, that would be best. If not, attaching the ground directly to the stud would be riskier, but safer than nothing.

I have planned to use my mig if possible and attach the ground to the back side of the bolt as it just sticks past. I've never done this before but my only concern would be possible heat near the bearing but again, its on a cast hub and I can't imagine it will mess up the bearing but if it does I will know better in the future :laughing:

 

[Soundguy]

can't be much worse than cutting a race out of a hub with a torch and starting a grease fire..

soundguy

 

[aebsmithcreek]

can't reccomend for most of the items but for drill bits i like champion, we drill quite a bit of stainless and had a hard time getting bits that cut good, we tried champion several years ago and have been with them ever since. for softer stuff the dewalts with the pilot tip always serves us well and we get good life out of both, i'm still usin my original set of champions and they get used often.

earl.

 

[Ford tractor]

broken bolt extraction is going to be a heated debate on here. i spent years as a mechanic removing broken exhaust studs from gm 454 engines in large trucks. if you can find them rigid makes a easy out that is fluted so it does not apply outward pressure on the fastener when driven into the pilot hole you drill. They work great but bolt extraction is as much luck as it is skill. i have tried every can of penitrating oil i could get my hands on, nothing beats GM heat riser penetrant, the stuff is toxic and made to work on rusty bolts.
drill bits, i have everything from cheep stanly's to diamond tips used to remove broken drill bits and taps. its best to learn the feel, know when to use heat and how much heat, go slow and be precise in your movements.

I'll agree with that! The GM Heat Riser Penetrant is the best I've used. Not cheap, but you don't need a lot.