OP
Dataway
Gold Member
The wheels on your model are probably stronger than one of mine right now 
Replacing a 1715 rear rim
- Thread starter Dataway
- Start date
- Views: 9441
OP
Dataway
Gold Member
The 1715 rear wheel/tire replacement project is under way. Pics below show how I am cutting the center out of the old wheel and welding it to the new rim.
1. Drill a hole in the old tire and drain the fill (valve stem rusted shut), not much was in it, most had leaked out.
2. Cut the tire off with a sawzall
3. Bring the old wheel in, lay it on the shop floor and measure from the floor to the bottom of the hub, then cut a metal spacer to those measurements.
4. Cut the old hub center out of the old wheel, I used an air cutoff tool
5. Test fit the old center in the new wheel using the previous made spacer to position it for the correct offset.
That's as far as I have gotten.
6. Sand blast the old center
7. Weld to the new rim
8. Paint
9. Mount the tire and fill
Got a this new tire delivered to my door for $213 ... not sure why it went up in one week: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011O2C2NU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$60 cheaper than the next nearest price and I didn't have to pick it up at the freight office one hour away. Rim was about $130. Plan on mounting it myself ... did a quick test with the new rim and it seems doable by hand (and large pry bars).
About two hours from getting the tractor up to getting the center cut out. Beats $600 for a new wheel assembly from New Holland.
1. Drill a hole in the old tire and drain the fill (valve stem rusted shut), not much was in it, most had leaked out.
2. Cut the tire off with a sawzall
3. Bring the old wheel in, lay it on the shop floor and measure from the floor to the bottom of the hub, then cut a metal spacer to those measurements.
4. Cut the old hub center out of the old wheel, I used an air cutoff tool
5. Test fit the old center in the new wheel using the previous made spacer to position it for the correct offset.
That's as far as I have gotten.
6. Sand blast the old center
7. Weld to the new rim
8. Paint
9. Mount the tire and fill
Got a this new tire delivered to my door for $213 ... not sure why it went up in one week: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011O2C2NU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$60 cheaper than the next nearest price and I didn't have to pick it up at the freight office one hour away. Rim was about $130. Plan on mounting it myself ... did a quick test with the new rim and it seems doable by hand (and large pry bars).
About two hours from getting the tractor up to getting the center cut out. Beats $600 for a new wheel assembly from New Holland.
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billybobjimmyjoejack
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2011
- Messages
- 151
- Tractor
- Ford/New Holland 1715
If you use a soapy water solution for lubrication between tire a rim mounting the tires by hand will be easier than mounting them dry.
OP
Dataway
Gold Member
I've got a jug of "Ru-Glide" here ... super slippery .. made for mounting tires .. but needs to dry before putting things under or a lot of load or the rim may spin in the tire.
On that topic ... I hear of a lot of people tearing the valve stem out of their tubes when the tire slips on the rim ... is this common? Is there a way to prevent it? I worry that with a new tire, and a newly painted glossy rim that slippage might be a problem.
On that topic ... I hear of a lot of people tearing the valve stem out of their tubes when the tire slips on the rim ... is this common? Is there a way to prevent it? I worry that with a new tire, and a newly painted glossy rim that slippage might be a problem.
OP
Dataway
Gold Member
OP
Dataway
Gold Member
fried1765
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2015
- Messages
- 10,089
- Tractor
- Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, 8N Ford, Gravely 12 HP "Professional", 48" SCAG Liberty
Wheel finished .... paint will have to harden for a few days before I try to mount the tire.
Looks good from here!
