Replacing Bolts On ROPS With a Hitch Pin????

[AGTtactical]

Hi gents,

I have an L6060 ROPS. Right now I have to fold the ROPS down to fit it in my temporary barn. Has anyone replaced the factory bolts with pins so you don't have to bolt and unbolt these every time you use it? The factory bolts measure 15.5 mm diameter over the threads...(0.6125"), and 16mm (roughly 5/8") on the non-threaded part of the bolt (0.6285"). A 5/8" hitch pin is 0.625"...that would work pretty well, but I'd have to drill the threads out of the welded nut on the ROPS that the bolt bolts into. That's easily done, but before I permanently do that, I'm wondering what you all have done?

Not sure why they didn't use pins to begin with...bolts are time consuming if you do it often. Maybe they use bolts instead of pins to prevent rattling? Anyone else using pins?

A metric 15mm hitch pin would slide in without drilling, but I can't find one. Not sure I want to use a 1/2" as it may not be strong enough...I know its only an 1/8" difference, but I'd sure hate to have it fail if my wife rolled the tractor. When my new barn is done in a year or two, I won't have to fold it anymore. Below is the factory bolt.

View attachment 585093

 

[Diggin It]

Mine are pins very similar to that.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Looks like you already have a pin if you leave off the nut.......

Unless your ROP has the nut welded to the bar.

Also hitch pins and such are available in grade 8 if you look hard enough.

 

[AGTtactical]

"Looks like you already have a pin if you leave off the nut...." Good grief...master of the obvious. Yes, as I mentioned previously, the nut is welded to the bar...you have bolt it in place, and its a tight fit, i.e. you can't screw it in using your fingers.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I would buy a small vice grip for each side. If you clamp it onto and leave it on the end with the flats you can easily and quickly unscrew the bolts. The wrench is always there. I then wouldn't bother with the clip pin as the weight of the vice grip will keep the pin from turning out. One you have your new barn built then you can return everything to stock and in the meantime the integrity of the ROPS stays as it was designed. I personally don't think that drilling out the nut and using a hitch pin will hurt the integrity of the ROPS but this way there is no possible future issues.

 

[Diggin It]

Have you checked with a local orange dealer to see if they have a retrofit?

 

[WranglerX]

Keep in mind that pins not only come in different diameters and lengths the also come in different "grades" same as bolt grades (#5 & #8).... If you are taking bolts out, I would not consider anything less that a pin same grade as removed bolt....Or just go Grade 8 and not look back....

Also consider if tractor is metric that 10.9 metric bolt is pretty much equivalent to SAE grade 8, and a 8.8 metric is equivalent to SAE grade 5...

Also by modding to take bolts out and replacing with pins you are absolving the manufacturer of tractor of any liability issues if there is a failure of ROPS and you have modified the ROPS to be in some way different from that as manufacturer designed and will stand behind...

Dale

 

[jeff9366]

I believe the ROPS are made in Kubota plants in Georgia, not Japan.

The factory bolt is 5/8" X 16 threads per inch (fine thread). 5/8" bolts are easy to find but are usually 12 tpi, (coarse thread). If you find a 5/8" X 16 tpi thread bolt in your local hardware store it will almost certainly be Grade 8.

5/8" X 16 tpi bolts are always available on eBay.



I replaced the two factory ROPS hinge bolts with 9/16" X 4" clevis pins.

LINK: Clevis Pin Universal 9/16 x 4 Low Carbon Steel Zinc Clear (8 Pieces) | eBay

These are perfect length. Hairpin clip goes in hole #2.

In diameter, four of eight pieces fit perfectly after being lubed, the other four pieces needed a bit of filing to remove burrs over the pin holes and a little flap wheel polishing to even out the zinc coating before they would slip through with just hand pressure.





After you hit your garage header a couple times, plus a few tree branches, the ROPS will vary a few 1,000s, so the pin holes do not line up.

On the front of the ROPS there is a lesser diameter welded on nut on each side, which I am sure is there so one can insert a bolt as a stop, to line up the ROPS pin holes again. I have yet to figure out exactly what hex bolt should become the stop, but I am working on it. As stops will seldom be moved I will lube with anti-seize compound rather than anything else.

Also, eventually you will want to adjust pinch bolts. Toss the used traditional cotter pins. Replace with ring cotters or readily available spring-steel key circles. I use the latter.

 

[jeff9366]

Also replacing bolts with pins you are absolving the manufacturer of tractor of any liberality issues if there is a failure of ROPS and you have modified the ROPS to be in some way different from that as manufacturer designed and will stand behind...

Absolutely true.

However, if you quit erecting the ROPS because inserting the two Kubota bolts at brow level is such a pain, you may get crushed in a tractor rollover.

I'll take pins and the ROPS up.

The RK tractors by TYM I have browsed at Rural King have clevis pins, not bolts, as the ROPS pivot.

 

[AGTtactical]

Keep in mind that pins not only come in different diameters and lengths the also come in different "grades" same as bolt grades (#5 & #8).... If you are taking bolts out, I would not consider anything less that a pin same grade as removed bolt....Or just go Grade 8 and not look back....Also consider if tractor is metric that 10.9 metric bolt is pretty much equivalent to SAE grade 8, and a 8.8 metric is equivalent to SAE grade 5...
Also by modding to take bolts out and replacing with pins you are absolving the manufacturer of tractor of any liberality issues if there is a failure of ROPS and you have modified the ROPS to be in some way different from that as manufacturer designed and will stand behind...Dale

I just knew someone would have to pipe in with the whole manufacturer's liability thing...as if we all didn't know that. Same for the grade of steel, and smaller pin diameter, ruining the warranty...what else have I missed? Since I apparently need to be very specific, I'm trying to replace the factory bolt with a pin of similar length, diameter, strength, and grade so that I can actually fold and unfold my ROPS daily, instead of operating it without the ROPS at all.

 

[AGTtactical]

I believe the ROPS are made in Kubota plants in Georgia, not Japan. The factory bolt is 5/8" X 16 threads per inch (fine thread). 5/8" bolts are easy to find but are usually 12 tpi, (coarse thread). If you find a 5/8" X 16 tpi thread bolt in your local hardware store it will almost certainly be Grade 8. 5/8" X 16 tpi bolts are always available on eBay.
I replaced the factory bolts with 9/16" X 4" clevis pins.
LINK: Clevis Pin Universal 9/16 x 4 Low Carbon Steel Zinc Clear (8 Pieces) | eBay
These are a perfect length. Hairpin clip goes in hole #2.
In diameter, 4/8 pieces fit perfectly after being lubed, 4/8 pieces needed a bit of filing to remove burrs over the pin holes and a little flap wheel polishing to even out the zinc coating before they would slip in with just hand pressure.
After you hit your garage header a couple times, plus a few tree branches, the ROPS will vary a few 1,000s, so the pin holes do not line up perfectly.
On the front of the ROPS there is another welded on nut on each side, which I am sure is there so one can insert a bolt as a stop, to line up the ROPS pin holes again. I have yet to figure out exactly what hex bolt should become the stop, but I am working on it. As stops will seldom be moved I will lube with anti-seize compound rather than anything else.

Thank Jeff!...you get it. Really appreciate the info. I take it you mean "5/8" where you are stating "4/8"???

 

[Diggin It]

Is it the threads that are tight or the fit in the holes?

If the threads, can you run a die over them to chase them a bit, maybe make them looser? If it's the fit, are the holes aligned properly? I have trouble with that sometimes even with the pin/slip fit. You might be able to run a drill though that a couple of thousandths oversized. Or run some emery cloth over the pins to take a hair off. I'm not sure anyone else would ever notice either of those methods.

As to the other matter, is the machine still under warranty?

 

[AGTtactical]

Yeah, still warranty Diggin It. I plan on using the bolts when I no longer need to fold it in a year or two, so don't want to drill out the threads...but maybe what you suggest would make the bolts easier to put in and take out. Thank you.

 

[jeff9366]

Thank Jeff!...you get it. Really appreciate the info. I take it you mean "5/8" where you are stating "4/8"???

I purchased a package of eight (8) clevis pins on eBay for $16.24.

Four of the eight (4/8) pins fit perfectly through the welded on nuts after being lubed.

Four of the eight pins needed a little fitting before they would pass through the welded on nuts only with hand pressure.

 

[AGTtactical]

Jeff, thanks very much! That sounds perfect. Wish I could find a Grade 8 or higher, but as you noted, this is likely good enough, and definitely better than not using the ROPS at all, as I've seen so many do. The factory ROPS bolts looks like a rather poor quality steel anyhow...its cast because of that funky head on it.

 

[RickB]

I just knew someone would have to pipe in with the whole manufacturer's liability thing...as if we all didn't know that. Same for the grade of steel, and smaller pin diameter, ruining the warranty...what else have I missed? Since I apparently need to be very specific, I'm trying to replace the factory bolt with a pin of similar length, diameter, strength, and grade so that I can actually fold and unfold my ROPS daily, instead of operating it without the ROPS at all.

I think that is perfectly acceptable. I will say that if it were mine I would drill out the nut or grind it off entirely so as to be able to use a full diameter 5/8 pin and not an undersized 9/16 pin. Half the stars in the Milky Way would have to align in order for you to have any real liability exposure.

 

[fried1765]

Absolutely true.

However, if you quit erecting the ROPS because inserting the two Kubota bolts at brow level is such a pain, you may get crushed in a tractor rollover.

I'll take pins and the ROPS up.

All the RK tractors by TYM I have browsed at Rural King have clevis pins, not bolts, as the ROPS pivot.

From your... browsing.... at RK, do you have an opinion on the overall RK tractor construction?
There is no RK store anywhere near me.

 

[newbury]

Along with "chasing" the threads and lubrication so the bolt turns easier I'd put a nail or something through the hole in head of the nut to give more leverage to turn it.

 

[jeff9366]

Jeff, thanks very much! That sounds perfect. Wish I could find a Grade 8 or higher, but as you noted, this is likely good enough, and definitely better than not using the ROPS at all, as I've seen so many do. The factory ROPS bolts looks like a rather poor quality steel anyhow...its cast because of that funky head on it.

I do not know if you have priced Kubota OEM replacements.

Kubota only sells the ROPS hinge bolt (fine thread) and the ROPS pinch bolt (coarse thread) as a two piece unit at about $45.00. No reason both could not be fine or coarse thread, making them interchangeable. Shame on Kubota.

I paid $45 once, thinking they were metric.
Then I went to my local Ace Hardware and discovered both bolts are inch standard.
Then I found the 9/16" clevis on eBay for $2.03 !

 

[AGTtactical]

I think that is perfectly acceptable. I will say that if it were mine I would drill out the nut or grind it off entirely so as to be able to use a full diameter 5/8 pin and not an undersized 9/16 pin. Half the stars in the Milky Way would have to align in order for you to have any real liability exposure.

Yeah, I thought of doing that, except that I wouldn't be able to use the bolts in the future...a better grade steel 9/16 would likely easily compensate for the 1/16th difference.