Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #1  

reasley

Silver Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
109
Note that this procedure was done on a 2000 4300 Compact Utility Tractor, but should be generalizable to many other contemporary John Deere models.

Tools needed: Hydraulic press; 10 mm socket for hub bolts, seal installer, depth gauge, brass brush to remove old sealing material from mating surfaces, Allen wrench/socket for axle drain plug, flat-faced chisel, hammer; razor knife, large external snap ring pliers, torque wrench.

Parts needed: Seals, John Deere Sealant (TY6304; this is Permatex 515), axle fluid, solvent, wheel bearing grease.


Instructions:


1. Pressure wash wheels and hubs thoroughly.


2. Lift tractor wheels off ground, place jack stands under axle.


3. Remove wheels.


4. Run razor knife along groove where flanges meet to break paint/sealer bond.


5. Remove 10 mm hub bolts.


6. Carefully break loose hub assembly by alternately tapping recesses at 3 & 9 o'clock positions.


7. When the assembly has protruded approximately 1/4", you should be able to wiggle by hand and remove -- careful -- it is heavy, probably 30 pounds?


8. Put hub assembly gear-side-up in hydraulic press, with hub free to be expelled.


9. Remove snap ring.


10. Carefully press hub shaft, first through inner bearing, then gear. When gear is free, everything should drop out at that point.


11. Remove inner bearing, gear, and large spacer. Pick up hub assembly and place on workbench, flange side down. Set hub/shaft assembly aside.


12. Carefully tap out outer bearing from assembly (note that it will probably drop out after initial movement).


13. Remove old seal.


14. With brass wire brush, remove old sealer/rust/etc. from both mating flanges (on hub assembly and on axle assembly on tractor).


15. Separate new two-piece seal and set aside inner part.


16. With solvent, prepare outer edge of outer seal and receiving surface on hub assembly for sealer.


17. wipe a thin coat of sealer on outer hub seal outer surface.


18. Using JD seal installer, install outer seal to a depth of 0.060" (see picture on "Installation Instructions" that come with seal.


19. (Optional; I did this) Using wheel bearing grease, form a 1/4" of grease around outer seal at inner edge. Also, coat inner surface of seal with grease.


20. Clean hub/shaft and lay on workbench, shaft side up.


21. Carefully lay hub housing on top of hub, with shaft coming through opening. Center housing on top of hub.


22. (Optional: I did this) Using wheel bearing grease, liberally coat "inside" of outer seal from inside of housing. [In other words, housing is laying on hub, and the shaft is protruding through the housing.] Also, coat "mating surface of "inner seal" with wheel bearing grease.


23. Press inner seal on to shaft mating surface until "seated" with outer seal.


24. Lubricate both mating surfaces (shaft and bearing) and then install outer bearing.


25. Center and place spacer on top of outer bearing. Lubricate mating surface of spacer.


26. Lubricate mating surface of gear. Carefully place gear on shaft, ensuring that its outer bearing surface mates with spacer. Press just enough to start gear's descent onto shaft, but enough that a portion of shaft is protruding for inner bearing.


27. Lubricate mating surface of inner bearing. Carefully press on inner bearing until just enough clearance is provided for snap ring to seat. [Note that this will be an iterative process -- you should press and check several times to make certain that you don't "overshoot" the snap ring clearance.]


28. Install snap ring.


29. Form bead of sealer at the inner part of the "L" on the flange. Let sit for 1-2 minutes.


30. Install hub assembly on axle assembly. [ The assembly may simply slide on automatically, but more likely, you will have to push, or lightly tap, around its circumference until it begins to seat. When it is seated enough for the bolts to be started, "draw it in" until it meets the other mating surface.


31. Torque these bolts to 22 - 27 foot pounds, beginning at bottom-most bolt and then alternating around that bolt until you end at the top.


32. Install wheel.


33. Refill axle with oil (4.1 quarts capacity). I intentionally under-fill, then drive to get it "settled," then re-check and top off.


Richard Easley

Waco, Texas
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #2  
Nice write-up Richard as usual:thumbsup:
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #3  
Yeah, great write up. Only pictures would make it better for the less imaginative like me :)

Could the pressing part be done with a monster vise? does it take a great deal of pressure to remove and seat the seals?

Is there a way to save a post? So when I get around to doing mine I don't have to ask again.

JB.
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #4  
Subscribe to the post. I hope I don't need it in the future but you never know. My 4310 is an 04 with 540 hours on it. I check the front axle all the time after all the threads about leaks. So far no problems
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #5  
I guess I'm subscribed by replying? Then I just search my own posts?

JB
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #6  
I guess I'm subscribed by replying? Then I just search my own posts?

JB

Yes. You can also make a folder and add it into that. I have one for my projects and one for favorite threads. basically you check the box next to the post (all in your control panel) and add them to whatever folder you want.
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #7  
Thanks, after 6 years I still don't know my way around the control panel :eek:

The odd thing is mine stopped leaking, not a drop ?

JB.
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Yeah, great write up. Only pictures would make it better for the less imaginative like me :)

Could the pressing part be done with a monster vise? does it take a great deal of pressure to remove and seat the seals?

Is there a way to save a post? So when I get around to doing mine I don't have to ask again.

JB.

Good morning, JB --

The press is not needed for the seals -- those are easy; the press is needed to remove/replace the inner (next to the tractor) bearing and the gear. No way one could do it with any size vice *without* the risk of "canting" the bearing while installing, removing. If you ever have to do it, spend the $100 on the Harbor Freight press on sale, and you will find that you will use it for many other tasks, too . . .

Richard Easley
Waco, Texas
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #9  
Nice write up! I am sure I will have to come back to this one day.
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #10  
Yeah I'm still just watching mine. The right side was getting a little wet, but now is dry.

JB
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #11  
Thank you so much for taking the time to write a detailed, step by step and simple list. I have a 3720, and after 2 hrs of searching, I was finally able to take off my hub without destroying it with a gear puller,lol....
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #12  
My front end leaks, but it is the seals at the top of the "knuckle". The part that turns when you crank the steering wheel. Bought a new seal then never got around to it. Took the tractor to the dealer for another problem, asked them to do the seal while they had it. Seems that they power washed everything, then decided that it wasn't leaking anymore so left it. Next time I got on a sidehill it started to leak again. That was 3000hrs ago.....Still only leaks when the tractor is on an angle....
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #13  
Richard,

Thanks for the nice write-up. I have an 04 JD 4310 MFWD with 1,295 hours on it. I was ripping with one shank about 20" in the ground and after about five hours of pulling, I started noticing oil coming out around the hub onto the right front wheel. Along with replacing the seals, do you replace the bearings during this process?

Randy
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #14  
Rangeo
:welcome: to TBN

I'd first just loosen the fill plug a bit so that it can vent, as I suspect you just built up some pressure from the heat and forced the oil out the seals.
That is what I did, and don't get any, or very little, leakage onto the front hub.
Some members have made a vent tube, but I just leave the plug/dip stick a bit loose.
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #15  
Really appreciate all the info and experience with the leak problems on front wheels. The very reason I joined as I only have a leak in the spring when the weather warms here in MN. Thanks to Richard for the detailed info and replacing seals.
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #16  
Maybe I will do this and add some photos, mine is leaking pretty good!
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #17  
ok so how do I get pictures, I have mine torn all the way down. just want to know hidden steps I may need to do
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #18  
After three more years mine started to leak again. This time from the final seal. Checked the book which told me to get the drive type from the stamping on the axle. No stamping....BUT they have two different shaped gear covers soooo I decided that I have the one with the lock nut and tapered bearings instead of the snap ring and ball bearings.
Jd price on the seal is $45 and it is not in stock in Canada. Canada Bearing sells the seal for $14 and I can get it in two days....
Tonight I pulled the assembly and found that I have a snap ring and what looks like roller bearings instead of ball.
Tomorrow I will go and find a press....then I will be able to measure the seal I have.
I also would like a simple way to post pictures...
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #19  
If pics are on your computer, then just click on "go advanced" instead of "post quick reply". Scroll down and you will see "Manage attachments", so click that.

A window will pop open and you click "add" and then "browse" your computer for the pic you want to post. Then click "upload" and the pic will be attached to your post. Takes longer to write it than to do it. :D
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #20  
I used a three finger puller and it worked great.

My seal was only a single piece.

Stubut
 

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