RS1400 Tiller. Where do I buy the wheel bearing for a tailwheel?

[California]

Yanmar RS1400 Tiller. The decal on it shows it's for YM2000.

One of the 'training wheels' on the back has a crunchy sound and didn't turn smoothly.

I took off the outer bearing cover and pried on the glued-in rubber seal protecting the wheel bearing. But discovered the rubber was a thin layer glued to a metal inner cap, which I had damaged. With everything glued solid this hub assembly is obviously not intended to be opened up but rather, replaced as a unit.

I packed it with grease and replaced the outer cap. It doesn't resist turning now but it still sounds crunchy. I suspect there are bearing race fragments in there.

Is anyone scrapping one of these tillers, or is this little hub assembly still available? A part # would be appreciated if someone has the manual.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

And - why use the training wheels? Because I'm running this tiller behind the YM186D, 15 PTO hp, instead of the YM240 (YM2000) that has the intended 20 PTO hp. I need to avoid burying the tiller clear to its tine axle which stalls the smaller tractor.

 

[California]

An old photo from the first time I tried the RS1400 with the YM186D.

I learned something here. The half-forks down to the tail wheels should be on the outer side, not the inner side as shown here. I swapped tail wheels to get them conforming to the decal on the tiller. Now they track properly without making those gouges. This is counter-intuitive. The smooth side of the wheel would do less damage to my orchard trees if I got too close.

The important thing I learned is the little YM186D can operate this tiller - so long as it has the optional tail wheels to control depth.

 

[ponytug]

My bet is Frederick's knows.

Did you notice the bearing size? Any numbers? A "sealed" bearing (-RS) usually has rubber over steel as the design.

A lot of agricultural bearing designs use integrated seals (RS, or better), or an exterior seal, but for things like tillers and cultivators that are rotating in dirt, once the seal goes, the bearing is usually toast as well, and the whole thing is designed to be swapped out as one.

Any chance that you could press the old bearing out?

All the best,

Peter

 

[winston1]

Manual: Box

 

[ponytug]

Manual: Box

That's great! That looks like some 6002 bearings and some seals.

All the best,

Peter

 

[CalG]

You will need to remove the failed bearing in order to replace it.

Do that NOW, and capture the bearing dimensions. Mosey on down to your FLAPS, NAPA is best, and order out a new bearing.

 

[California]

Manual: Box

Thank you Winston!

And everybody, for the good advice.

 

[bmaverick]

Yanmar RS1400 Tiller. The decal on it shows it's for YM2000.

One of the 'training wheels' on the back has a crunchy sound and didn't turn smoothly.

I took off the outer bearing cover and pried on the glued-in rubber seal protecting the wheel bearing. But discovered the rubber was a thin layer glued to a metal inner cap, which I had damaged. With everything glued solid this hub assembly is obviously not intended to be opened up but rather, replaced as a unit.

I packed it with grease and replaced the outer cap. It doesn't resist turning now but it still sounds crunchy. I suspect there are bearing race fragments in there.

Is anyone scrapping one of these tillers, or is this little hub assembly still available? A part # would be appreciated if someone has the manual.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

And - why use the training wheels? Because I'm running this tiller behind the YM186D, 15 PTO hp, instead of the YM240 (YM2000) that has the intended 20 PTO hp. I need to avoid burying the tiller clear to its tine axle which stalls the smaller tractor.

You can look it up in the attached.

The link Winston shared doesn't have the rotary tiller manuals.

Many of them are on TractorForum.com

 

[bmaverick]

and there is a second one,

 

[bmaverick]

'

 

[California]

and there is a second one,

Wow, that second one even has the decals showing alternate tine mounting for flat till, center mound, etc. Thanks! My decals were (barely) legible when I bought the tiller in about 2006 but are gone now.

 

[California]

[photos]

Yep that's the twin to my RS1400. Mine looked more weathered than that when I bought it in about 2006. I had asked for the cheapest one they had. Surprisingly, included for the $200 was a set of new tines. I've never needed to install them. It has always been reliable, I got a bargain.

I went all through the tiller today. Drained the inevitable condensation water (couple of ounces) from the bottom of the gear case. Opened and checked the bearing on the far end of the tine axle, that I had replaced in my initial setup. Fluid levels ok. Lubed the driveline expansion joint so now it slides easily, it had been gummed up. Likewise the unlock pins at each end of the driveline, and the tailwheel swivels. All had been gummed up and stiff. It's been a while since I maintained it.

And I tried mounting the tiller with just the YM186D's normal top link instead of the special 'bridge' needed on the YM240 that gets the tiller clear of the tires. This works, after adjusting the depth wheel to lift the 'training wheels' as high as possible. I may not be tilling full depth but the little YM186D (15 PTO hp) is working hard, needs full throttle and still can't hold rpm occasionally, so this is as hard as I want to work it.

Then I went out and did something boneheaded. Tilled blackberry jungle without mowing it first. This got so many canes snarled around the tines and shaft that it took hours to take them out. I'll start another thread here with a photo, titled something like 'Don't Do This!'

 

[Travis_R]

California,

Did you get the bearing changed and where did you get the bearing?

Thanks!
Travis

 

[bmaverick]

California,

Did you get the bearing changed and where did you get the bearing?

Thanks!
Travis

McMaster-Carr, Grainger, Home-Depot, Ace Hardware, NAPA, etc.

If you know the bearing root number, you can look at the types available for various improvements too.

Like stainless, double sealed and lubricated bearing.

 

[careyo63]

Fredricks RS1400 Tail wheel parts.

 

[winston1]

Thinking they are 6002. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=6002+bea...24462e0472&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_4na86fzahe_e

 

[careyo63]

You don't need the wheels I sure didn't. Pic. 1st. pass for the season 2nd with the NTM. RS1400 Tiller. Mothers garden she used a Briggs & stratton walk behind. Yrs Ago last Tiller they had and we had to Dig it out of a back Warehouse. It did have brand new tines! Was told I wouldn't need the wheels and it was true for my use.

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[California]

Thinking they are 6002. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=6002+bearing&adgrpid=1334807680041700&hvadid=83425867000625&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=65935&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83425823147069:loc-190&hydadcr=24663_13770022&mcid=d3577dc9cb203c0280aaee24462e0472&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_4na86fzahe_e

Yes. Mine has the wheels and single-side 'fork' as shown in bmaverick's post #10 above. So there's a pair of these 6002 bearings at each wheel.

I didn't replace the wheel bearings for my recent tilling project. Packing in grease restored smooth rolling. It rolls true. There's something in there that was binding, when it was dry. Now There's just an infrequent momentary crunching sound as it likely rolls over a bearing race fragment or something.

I should replace those bearings but I'm not going to until a quieter time.

 

[bmaverick]

I was in Tractor Supply today. Plenty of bearings to be found. A bit pricey vs online shopping with free delivery.

 

[California]

I was in Tractor Supply today. Plenty of bearings to be found. A bit pricey vs online shopping with free delivery.

Sometimes Ebay has the best prices of all.

I recently got a 'check engine' light on the 2005 Ford Focus. The O'Reilly counter guy scanned the car and found 'excessive voltage at the fuel rail pressure sensor'. I'm an old points&condenser generation mechanic. Never heard of that part.

O'Reilly's price for the sensor was $90+. So I told him I would first try disconnecting the battery to see if that would clear the Check Engine Light.

I studied the project on Youtube and bought the sensor on Ebay for $16.99. Claimed genuine Ford OEM and the sealed plastic bag looked authentic. Maybe counterfeit? At any rate likely the same replica that O'Reilly has for $90. The one I took out had Bosch logo and some text, this replacement had no markings at all.

Installing it took 5 minutes. No more error message. Quality of that part looked excellent, and is likely comparable quality to the replica parts we get for our Yanmars. It pays to comparison-shop!