Can anyone advise how to go about replacing this fuel line on a Jinma 284? I'm not too mechanically inclined so I could benefit from pretty explicit feedback!
Thanks in advance
Super helpful - I'll get some photos asap to help diagnose further!I'm not familiar with Jinma, but I'm guessing you cannot simply order one from them or you would do that....
One problem I have with changing what you have is we we don't know what that connection to the fuel tank really looks like. We know what it resembles....from what we can see it looks like it is probably an inverted flare nut holding a flared connection to the fuel tank. That wouldn't be simple if it were a standard US imperial standard thread, and is complicated because what you have is probably to some metric standard. Or even to a manufacturer's own standard.
There are several different threads and types of flare that it could be. It could be a compression collar or a formed flare. It can be a single or double flare. For a flare to work, it has to be exact, surgically clean, symmetrical, and it has to match the existing flare in the fuel tank exactly. Add to that the probability that it is made to a metric flare standard and now it is unlikely to be a flare you will automatically find at your local auto parts store. There there are many flares and flare threads, all different....and we don't know which one you have.
If you have a local hydraulic shop, you might take that photo you posted to them and see if they have an idea. But if they do, they will want the old fuel line in hand before they do anything.
I've got a simple idea that might work. It involves hoping that both ends of the fuel line are identical, and if so then we keep the existing flare and metal tube on both ends, but replace that poor quality central rubber portion. Removing the old rubber and then sliding a better quality rubber or silicone fuel line over the metal tube and securing the replacement with a pair of small hose clamps on each end. For this to have any chance of working, the other end where the fuel line screws into the fuel filter needs to look pretty close to being like the end in your photo.
So since you said you wanted explicit feedback, step 1 is to take a picture of the other end of the fuel line and post it here.
While you are doing that photo take notice if the fuel line gets exposed to a engine heat in normal operation, how long it is, and approximently how far the other end is below the tank end. (Vertical distance).
BTW, we are concerned about vertical distance because the fuel line should always be decending as it travels between the fuel tank and the fuel filter. Otherwise it can trap an air bubble and shut off the flow.
Good luck,
rScotty
Thank you for the suggestion!Agree with rScotty..... Just cut off and replace cracked rubber portion if both ends have enough steel tube to clamp to...And for clamps use quality Fuel Injection style, lot better than "worm" style clamps...
View attachment 722246
Super helpful - I'll get some photos asap to help diagnose further!
And just to clarify, the new rubber portion will have to be a larger diameter if we're intending it to go OVER the top of the existing tube, correct? In other words, the rubber line will now serve as the "female" and the metal tube will become the "male" ... am I following correctly?I'm not familiar with Jinma, but I'm guessing you cannot simply order one from them or you would do that....
One problem I have with changing what you have is we we don't know what that connection to the fuel tank really looks like. We know what it resembles....from what we can see it looks like it is probably an inverted flare nut holding a flared connection to the fuel tank. That wouldn't be simple if it were a standard US imperial standard thread, and is complicated because what you have is probably to some metric standard. Or even to a manufacturer's own standard.
There are several different threads and types of flare that it could be. It could be a compression collar or a formed flare. It can be a single or double flare. For a flare to work, it has to be exact, surgically clean, symmetrical, and it has to match the existing flare in the fuel tank exactly. Add to that the probability that it is made to a metric flare standard and now it is unlikely to be a flare you will automatically find at your local auto parts store. There there are many flares and flare threads, all different....and we don't know which one you have.
If you have a local hydraulic shop, you might take that photo you posted to them and see if they have an idea. But if they do, they will want the old fuel line in hand before they do anything.
I've got a simple idea that might work. It involves hoping that both ends of the fuel line are identical, and if so then we keep the existing flare and metal tube on both ends, but replace that poor quality central rubber portion. Removing the old rubber and then sliding a better quality rubber or silicone fuel line over the metal tube and securing the replacement with a pair of small hose clamps on each end. For this to have any chance of working, the other end where the fuel line screws into the fuel filter needs to look pretty close to being like the end in your photo.
So since you said you wanted explicit feedback, step 1 is to take a picture of the other end of the fuel line and post it here.
While you are doing that photo take notice if the fuel line gets exposed to a engine heat in normal operation, how long it is, and approximently how far the other end is below the tank end. (Vertical distance).
BTW, we are concerned about vertical distance because the fuel line should always be decending as it travels between the fuel tank and the fuel filter. Otherwise it can trap an air bubble and shut off the flow.
Good luck,
rScotty
And just to clarify, the new rubber portion will have to be a larger diameter if we're intending it to go OVER the top of the existing tube, correct? In other words, the rubber line will now serve as the "female" and the metal tube will become the "male" ... am I following correctly?