Replacing Head Gasket

MDM · Jun 30, 2006

Hi guys,

The head gasket on my 2210 is starting to go bad. First, let me say this is not a VN rebuild and I got it from a reputable dealer whom I am very happy with. It is in the very early stages as my fluid levels have not changed. There is no water in the oil or vice versa. I just noticed a small trace of water on the side of the block after mowing. I examined it while it was running and I could see a spot on the head gasket where it was spitting some tiny bubbles, again, just trace amounts. The tractor is still running good and no smoke in the exhaust. My problem is I have never tackled this kind of thing before. My father in law is a very good shadetree mech. and he is going to help me out.

I have all of the torque specs from my dealer. I would just take it to him to have it fixed, but he is 3 hrs away. I like to learn new things, so I would rather do it myself anyway. The tractor has never overheated and never runs more than 160 degrees, so I doubt there is any damage to the head. Its probably the original gasket so I guess this is not something out of the ordinary for 25 + year old rubber to go bad.

Any one who has tackled a head gasket before have any advice or special instruction, that would be welcomed.

Thanks,

D Moore

mark777 · Jun 30, 2006

I can only offer that replacing a head gasket is fairly simple IF you get comfortable, relax and enjoy yourself. The whole process provides an excellent opportunity to check your piston tops, end play, cylinder bore, valves, seats seals,push rods and injectors. And if you have high speed air tools or electrics you can use Scotch Brite pads to clean the head and deck well enough to check for hairline cracks.

You will have great results if you work clean, remove all the components and lay them out in the same order for (pre) - reassembly and use a shop vac to clean up gasket debris that falls into your cylinders and passages. Also, if possible, use a bench grinder type wire brush wheel to clean all head bolt, water pump, exhaust and intake bolt threads. The cleaner threads provide a much truer representation upon final torquing sequences. A good steel straight edge and feeler gauge applied to the cylinder head well assist in checking for flatness or warping.

The last, and probably easiest chore will be adjusting your valves

.

Good luck, Mark

MDM · Jun 30, 2006

Mark or anyone else know of a proper torque sequence?

My father in law whom is quite knowledgeable suggested trying some Bar's head gasket repair first since the leak is very minor. Then put a new gasket on after the mowing season is over. This is not what I had in mind at all.

In-laws - the wife gets offended if I don't listen to her dad because he is a god in her eyes. On top of that, he can't believe the torque setting call for 120lbs when every motor he has ever torqued calls for 80 -90lbs. Just a bit of a know it all and that just gets under my skin. I'm just gonna have to tell him how I want to do it and thats the way it is or just borrow his torque wrench and do it myself.

LMTC · Jun 30, 2006

David, it's not difficult, but it is important it be done right. Bars Leak my you-know-what. Only in an absolute emergency. Re: the torque, he apparently has not worked on diesel engines. The compression and heat generated by these little diesel engines can cause serious damage very quickly. I know it's a trip, but if you want to make arrangements with me, we can get it done while you wait, assuming no problems with the head itself.

Perhaps a family-friendly course might involve advising FIL and wife that you have consulted your selling dealer, and his position has been supported by others familiar with these tractors...once you know it's leaking, the head gasket should be replaced as soon as possible. Using it in it's present condition is an invitation to it suddenly blowing out a chunk of the gasket, possibly resulting in sudden and serious problems. And even very minor coolant leakage into a cylinder can cause serious cavitation over time.