replacing manure spreader floor

Eric_Phillips · May 9, 2011

I have an old New Holland 220 Manure Spreader. The serial number is 1048. I finally got it attached to the tractor and turned it one. The chains basically peeled up the floor boards. Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated.

I assume the floor chains need to come off. It looks like if you bend a link backwards they come unhooked. Any tricks to do that?

The flooring looks like it is held down with roofing nails. But the supports are angle iron so I can't believe they were actually nailed. How are these supposed to be fastened?

What wood to use? It looks like 1" thick tongue and groove boards.

beenthere · May 9, 2011

Treated radius edge deck boards bolted down should work well.

Also, can put down thicker decking but I'd go with the RED.

And sounds like you have the "trick" to un-linking the bed chains.

texas42 · May 9, 2011

I rebuilt a spreader like that years ago.
Get all the slack you can in the chains by backing the adjusters on the front axle the chain rides on. Then by using a small come-a-long you can bent the chain were you can drive one link out of the other.
As far as floorboards I think 1" inch toungue and groved was it - I used pressure treated when I refloored the spreader.
I think the original floor is put down with self-tapping flat head screws like a Tec screw that will tap its own hole into metal.
I used carriage bolts and dilled the holes on my rebuild. just draw then down tight enough to get a little countersink so the cross slats won't rub them hard.

Snaker · May 10, 2011

texas42 said:
I rebuilt a spreader like that years ago.
Get all the slack you can in the chains by backing the adjusters on the front axle the chain rides on. Then by using a small come-a-long you can bent the chain were you can drive one link out of the other.
As far as floorboards I think 1" inch toungue and groved was it - I used pressure treated when I refloored the spreader.
I think the original floor is put down with self-tapping flat head screws like a Tec screw that will tap its own hole into metal.
I used carriage bolts and dilled the holes on my rebuild. just draw then down tight enough to get a little countersink so the cross slats won't rub them hard.

Thats the ticket with those chain links. There is a handheld "vise" that you can get at farm supply places. I have one and haven't had much luck with it. I have used a angle grinder to open up the gap slightly on uncooperative links.

Eric_Phillips · May 12, 2011

Is tongue and groove decking essential? I was looking at Lowes and they didn't have tongue and groove pressure treated decking. I could try a real lumber store.

Thanks for the info on fasteners. The angle iron supports look pretty bad. Once I get the decking off I will see if self tapping crews or carriage bolts will work best. Might be replacing the supports. The mechanics on this spreader are good but the whole bed is very rotted.

texas42 · May 12, 2011

I don't think tongue and groove decking is essential, it would be nice but not essential. As regular pressure treated boards dry out you will have a little gap but not enough to bother although you might get some liquid leakage down on the supports which could make them rust faster.
I think I used 1" x 6"

crash325 · May 13, 2011

My spreader needs just a Little work. :laughing: Once your done with yours, :thumbsup: would you like to work on mine??

Eric_Phillips · May 13, 2011

crash325 said:
My spreader needs just a Little work. :laughing: Once your done with yours, :thumbsup: would you like to work on mine??

You wheels are in better shape than what I started with. :laughing: The rest is a bit of a toss up. Mine has metal sides except for the very bottom. Not sure why there is one bottom wood rail on the sides. It looks like you have lost some structural integrity on the left side. I fear when I start tearing into mine that the rust might give way. Good luck with yours.