Replacing starter and ignition coils on PT422

JackRobin · Dec 16, 2004

( Thanks again. Yes this is tight. I had to remove the battery last night. I have a lot of bolts out right now. I am going to adjust the valve backlash and clean the cooling fins while I have it apart.

Bob Rip )

Hi Bob,

How did the repair go? Any problems?

Regards,

Jack Gawecki
Robin America, Inc.
Technical Support Dept.
800-277-6246

BobRip · Dec 16, 2004

Good news, everything is working, coils and starter are replaced. Biggest problem was access. I had to remove the following items to get the access.
Battery
Muffler
Fuel Tank
Fuel tank support bracket
Fuel pump
Engine mount bolts (not bolts on the engine, but the bolts between the power trac body and the frame or mount that the engine sits on and the front pump is bolted to.

Front hydraulic pump
Back Hydraulic pump, but I could probably have left it in place
Engine front cowling
directional control cylinder that centers the hydraulic pump arm which controls the vehicle speed.
Two side engine cylinder baffles (sheet metal pieces) - Most of the above was done to be able to move the engine towards the fuel pump side to be able to remove these pieces.
It also took two feeler guage sets to set the coil gap, one on each side.
I recommend that you remove all of the above items up front instead of doing what I did and remove a part and try again.
The engine ran a little rough at first, but I think their was air in the fuel line.
Rough guess on total time 16 hours. You might want to try an electric heater, rather that do this. I think I would if I had to do it all over again.
Jack, thanks for asking and thanks for the parts, and thanks for calling me at home.

Bob Rip

ontheweb · Dec 16, 2004

( You might want to try an electric heater, rather that do this. I think I would if I had to do it all over again.
)

Man, that sounds ugly /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif ... and you sugar coated it for us by leaving out the parts of the story about getting hydro-fluid everywhere from disassembling all that stuff. UGggh! Not a fun job, but hopefully pays off for you in the long run.

Ontheweb

BobRip · Dec 17, 2004

I did not have to disconnect any hydraulics. I just unbolted the pumps from their support brackets. I am sorry for making it sound nastier than it was.

Bob Ripley

MuncyBob · Dec 17, 2004

16 hours!! I hope mine has the newer ones on it, have not thought about looking while in the garage, but so far cold start problems been very minor...just takes 2 turns of the key rather than 1 like in the summer.

johara1 · Dec 17, 2004

the first time i pulled the engine on the 422 was about a hour and a half.raise it up with a hoist slide a piece of plywood on the pt and let the engine back down.work right on the pt.
after reading about the fires i found to pull the engine and clean it out,change the oil and hyd. filter while it was in up in the air was easy and only takes about 3 hrs.in the fall before the plow and chains goes on /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

MossRoad · Dec 18, 2004

Good to hear from you again. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

BobRip · Dec 19, 2004

Did you pull the engine with the mounting plate on it?

Bob Rip

johara1 · Dec 20, 2004

no, 1, remove muffler 2,unbolt rear pumps from the mount and remove the bolts from the engine to the mount 3,remove gas tank 3, remove two allen bolts from front pump, mark where hydro back is, so you can get it close when you put it back together, now un bolt it. 4, remove the 4 bolts that hold the engine to the mounting plate(if you stand on the left reach under the right side of the engine, reverse for the left side. 4,remove battery cables and slide engine to the rear,now the front pump will can be pulled the front and to the side.5,unplug the wires to the starter and carb. i made a little spreader to hook the chain to the engine lift brackets, that way they don't bend.
i may have forgot a few things but that covers the main stuff and it's cold up there,i hope i don't see it till spring. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif