Loader Replacing Tilt cylinder rod

[DieselBound]

I blew out one of my tilt cylinder rods on my NX's KL6010 loader: I won't go into how it happened, but, suffice it to say, it was something that I shouldn't have been doing! The rod is broken (it bent and then broke), in which case there's the top piece of the rod broken off inside the cylinder.

Since Kioti lists the rods separately (part numbers for every piece of the cylinders) I'm contemplating repairing it myself rather than buying a complete new cylinder.

Has anyone went this route?

I suspect that I should disassemble first to look for signs of other damaged parts.

 

[LouNY]

I would be worried that the piston would have tweaked the cylinder when the rod bent enough to break.
I broke one on an Oliver with a loader when the bucket caught and stopped the tractor (fortunately it was a run away).

 

[DieselBound]

Lou, yes, good point. I might not be able to visually detect any deformity. Maybe defer to a shop? I'm getting a price quote on an entire cylinder and will look to weigh the options.

 

[DieselBound]

For posterity, here's a picture of the carnage:

 

[SGreene]

Bummer Diesel. Anytime I break a cylinder rod I always check the bore. As LouNY stated you're looking for deformation. You can shine a light down the bore and look for distortion but a bore micrometer is a better route to go. At a minimum you'll want to repack the piston. Have fun getting the nut off! A good machine shop should be able to make you another rod for much cheaper than what a Kioti replacement will be. In fact, a whole new cylinder from a local machine shop will be cheaper than Kioti.

 

[DieselBound]

Yeah, I suppose a generic cylinder might be another option. With that in mind, can anyone tell me what the specs are on these cylinders? (I'm still waiting on a price quote from Kioti; I recall shelling out about $700 for a new boom cylinder for my B7800 after it blew out a seal [over 7 years ago] and I didn't have time to wait to have it repaired; I subsequently got the blown out one repaired for $200 [still have it as a spare and will probably never need to use it!])

Glad it's not one of the boom cylinders.

A side question: Can I bypass the cylinder (connect up the hoses) so that I can use the tractor without worry over spewing hydraulic fluid? I'd like to be able to do a bit of PTO work.

 

[rback33]

As long as you don't hit the lever you can use the tractor as is.... you just have to deal with it being flopped out.

 

[DieselBound]

"flopped out," yeah, that's an apt description! The grapple is just dangling.

In order to get specs on the cylinder (retracted spec) I'd have to be able to operate the good side (and bypass the broken side).

 

[LouNY]

As a side note, I'm still using the rods out of my cylinders for raw material for projects and bits and pieces.
Mine was very good quality steel.
Good luck getting repaired for a decent price.

 

[rback33]

"flopped out," yeah, that's an apt description! The grapple is just dangling.

In order to get specs on the cylinder (retracted spec) I'd have to be able to operate the good side (and bypass the broken side).

I think I would pull the good cylinder off and use it for reference and then use a strap to hold the grapple where you want it. This will leak some oil, but you have to break the lines loose anyway on the bad cylinder. Get a helper and do it all manually and you have a shot at draining the oil into a bucket. I work for a loader manufacturer that used to supply Kioti. I know you are in a tough spot on the best way to fix it. When this happens it's often about as cheap to buy a cylinder. After you buy the rod AND seal kit that will be ruined taking the cylinder apart to repair it... If you are paying the dealer... you may as well buy the whole cylinder once labor is tacked on. If you can repair it yourself, I would buy the parts. My experience has also been that these companies are really proud of their parts.... the markup is nuts.