Resealing stabilizer cylinder, nick in rod. Fix, ignore, replace?

[Carl_NH]

I had a rock roll into the left stabilizer years ago - used file and 1200 grit to get it smooth, put some JB weld in the small depression (sesame seed size) and sanded smooth again. This worked but the seal was damaged so leaks a little bit - leaves a spot on the floor over a week - should replace the seals but it's not that bad at this point.

I'd say if its not leaking don't mess with it.

 

[joea99]

I had a rock roll into the left stabilizer years ago - used file and 1200 grit to get it smooth, put some JB weld in the small depression (sesame seed size) and sanded smooth again. This worked but the seal was damaged so leaks a little bit - leaves a spot on the floor over a week - should replace the seals but it's not that bad at this point.

I'd say if its not leaking don't mess with it.

I was thinking a bit of JB Weld, but have reservations about how it would hold, over time, under hot oil and heavy usage.

Not so much it would not last, but that it might break free and float about in the hydraulics, eventually to cause mischief in a valve or some such.

Brazing is a bit of a bold step, for me. The heat would likely have bad effects on the chrome plating. But I have seen a number of these ads for the "miracle metal" for low temperature (simple torch) that might work. Stop to think, some forms of silver solder might work too.

FYI, yes, I have been working with hydraulic fluid and solvents this morning.

 

[Alan W.]

I was thinking a bit of JB Weld, but have reservations about how it would hold, over time, under hot oil and heavy usage.

Not so much it would not last, but that it might break free and float about in the hydraulics, eventually to cause mischief in a valve or some such.

Brazing is a bit of a bold step, for me. The heat would likely have bad effects on the chrome plating. But I have seen a number of these ads for the "miracle metal" for low temperature (simple torch) that might work. Stop to think, some forms of silver solder might work too.

FYI, yes, I have been working with hydraulic fluid and solvents this morning.

We never brazed a rod. I think it would mess with the plating.

 

[wdchyd]

TIG weld, get in and get out of the puddle and it won’t hurt the chrome. Fussy file and polish, good to go.
Anything beyond this repair requires a new hyd rod fabricated, easily done with the right equipment.

 

[joea99]

TIG weld with 309SS wire, get in and get out of the puddle and it won’t hurt the chrome. Fussy file and polish, good to go.
Anything beyond this repair requires a new hyd rod fabricated, easily done with the right equipment.

I do have a multi purpose welder, but have not tried the TIG setup yet. Have not done TIG in 40 years.
I'd have to find a shop to do the rod fabrication or get one from Kubota. Several hundred, but imagine a shop would not be much cheaper.

 

[wdchyd]

Easy Peezy

 

[wdchyd]

After polish
Not the same rod as above, but you get the idea

 

[joea99]

Easy Peezy

How do you deal with oil contamination of the nick?

I'd probably want to practice on used a scrap rod, but have no source for them.

 

[5030]

Put in new (flexible) seals and forget about it. Small defects in a hard chrome cylinder rod are like a pimple. The more you pick at a pimple, the worse it gets.

 

[wdchyd]

How do you deal with oil contamination of the nick?

I'd probably want to practice on used a scrap rod, but have no source for them.

No contamination issue, go right over it. I did three more rods this afternoon.
I have lots of scrap rods, too bad you are so far away.