Retaining wall ideas

TimberXX · Feb 15, 2005

hey guys looks like a good project. i just graduated as a civil engineer and took a course in retaining wall design. geogrid is a great material and i suggest it, just be sure it would work for your soil. the ties will move, and they will also stain no matter if they are pressure treated or not. I would take a sample of the soil to the to the dealer of the brick. This would tell you how far into the slope you have to dig. the type of soil also would tell you what kind of footer you would need under the wall (whether you tier it or not) and the most important thing is drainage! run perforated PVC behind the wall. The saturated soil weighs much more than dry soil which could cause failure.

Varmintmist · Feb 16, 2005

The country manor stone (CMS) is interesting. One of the dealers is about 9 miles away in Worthington. I might have to take a ride over.

I like the patio, very nice.

I wonder how the CMS would look next to flagstone, PA bluestone? I have already gotten a load and will be getting another as soon as the BIL starts doing his odd jobs in the spring. He is removing a old overgrown garden that has flagged walks and sitting areas. Guess who is going to pull the flags and get rid of them for free for him /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Just because I'm a nice guy. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Only real problem is, no machine time to pull and load. All grunt labor.

The walk at and under the back deck will be flags. If I have enough I would like to flag the front walk and the steps up the bank.

BTW, this is not a weekend thing, I figure that I will have a year into this on and off. With the wall, walks and just getting some grass growing. Not to mention the garden, food plots, war on invasive plants, culling trees, firewood, work, boy scouts, girl scouts, soccer, t-ball, honeydos...................... I think I am going to go take a nap, I'm tired just looking at this /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

JimR · Feb 16, 2005

How about large rocks with a mix of low type flowering vegetation of different colors? There would be no maintanance required once it is all done. You might have to water it once in a blue moon if the weather was really dry. I plan on doing this to a slope in my backyard this year if I can find the time.

caylor · Feb 16, 2005

Ambitious project! I like those kind. I think you are getting the idea that railroad ties are not the way to go. I know they are cheap, but I agree they will rot out well before pressure treated lumber, not to mention that the ties are treated with all kinds of nasty chemicals that leach into the soil much easier than the chemicals used in the pressure treated timber.

Another idea is what about good ol' fashioned concrete? I know you can get various rock patterns actually formed into the wall, and stain the concrete to look like whatever type of rock appeals to you.

tomnky · Feb 16, 2005

A poured wall with faux stone veneer would look good.

TimberXX · Feb 16, 2005

while a poured wall would work, the foundation would have to be designed by a person with a soil mechanics background. I dont know how strict the building coded are out there. I know that if it hurts or worse kills anyone whenever you could be responsible. You would save with the geotech fabric (mesh) also be sure you use the right fabric for your soil! there are many different types that each excel it different soil.

RobertN · Feb 16, 2005

Ah, Boy Scouts... I am just transitioning from Webelos den leader to asst Scoutmaster. My son bridged over last month.

That patio has Arizona pink flagstone in it. It is really pretty. Also, what is not seen is at the back of the pation is a second retaining wall. The front lower wall and upper back wall are connected on both sides by wall that transitions from and exterior wal to an interior wall.

Most wall blocks are made to reach 3' with minor layouts. Most states require the wall be engineered if it exceeds 4' in height. All of the block walls require a footing, usually 6-12" deep of compacted AB or 3/4" crush. Behind the wall at the bottom a drain line is needed. 1' back from the wall should be filled with compacted 3/4 crush rock. Typically in a 2-3' high wall, the first block is at least 1/2 buried and sometimes completely buried as part of the foundation.

The biggest thing with these wall, is getting the foundation and inital course level level level(or at least very straight on grade if you do want it to slope). If the foundation is level, the rest goes easy. If not, the whole wall will be a pain. This is the case no matter which brand or style of block might be used.

The patio in the picture is 15x15. We spent over a day with a transit doing prep work and making sure where everything was going to be. That prep work made all the difference in the world...

rdln · Feb 16, 2005

Interlocking steel seawall for that nautical look.

Mark4510 · Feb 16, 2005

"The biggest thing with these wall, is getting the foundation and inital course level level level(or at least very straight on grade if you do want it to slope). If the foundation is level, the rest goes easy. If not, the whole wall will be a pain. This is the case no matter which brand or style of block might be used."

I set up a 5' high by 100' wall and if there was one lesson I learned it would be just what Robert says. Get the base course done correctly and the rest is just effort.

Robert, Nice job. Is that patio job in the development just off of 50 in Cameron park near the soccer field and skate park?

Mark