Reversing Rear Tires

[RoyJackson]

I actually posted this in an older thread in the New Holland forum (as a response), but it's much more applicable to Deere owners.

Here's an example of what you can expect before and after reversing (or swapping side to side) rear tires. This is mostly directed for folks who want to install tire chains (which is why I did it), but also those who want a bit more spacing for stability. This is applicable to turfs, but you should see similar results with R-4 tires). The tires are 41-14-20 turfs.
The first pic is of my 4400 (actually on the dealer's lot right after I bought it) with those rear turfs in factory stock position. Not much clearance for chains, eh?
The second and third pictures are what you can expect after reversing those rear tires (this is, of course, on a Deere 4400. You'll get the same results on 4200, 4210, 4300, 4310 and 4410 tractors...other Deere models and other brands may have different results but I expect very similar results with the 3120, 3320, 3520 and 3720).

Well, now I'm ready for that snow storm...

 

[AKfish]

Good info, Roy. My old JD 970 had turfs on it, too. With chains, I actually think they were better on ice and snow than my R4's.

I believe the "sipes" (sp?) or all those small slits in the tread were the reason that the traction was better.

AKfish

 

[defed]

it looks to me like you have a slightly greater increase then i have on my 4300 w/ R4's. in narrow, it looks like your turfs are closer than my R4's where and when reversed the space looks about the same as mine. either an illusion or a slight difference on the dish of your rims?

i might have gained 1" per wheel (if that), but it's enough for chains. i went for the 2 link ladders....man are those heavy.

 

[RoyJackson]

it looks to me like you have a slightly greater increase then i have on my 4300 w/ R4's. in narrow, it looks like your turfs are closer than my R4's where and when reversed the space looks about the same as mine. either an illusion or a slight difference on the dish of your rims?

i might have gained 1" per wheel (if that), but it's enough for chains. i went for the 2 link ladders....man are those heavy.

I got at least 1.5" per side. I'd guess the offset on the wheels used for turfs is a bit greater then those used for R-4 tires. I'm pretty sure wheels used for R-4's are wider then wheels used for R-3's.

I know about the weight of those 2-Link chains! Arrabil brought his over when he helped me swap my tires around. His drive is paved and pretty steep so he has 2-link chains front and back.
I went with 4-link ladders (as you see in the pictures) since my drive is pretty level. The 4-link chains are pretty heavy too (I'll estimate 70 lbs each).

 

[JHTFarmer]

Looks better with or without chains when you have the wheels like that, much more stable in appearance

 

[RADIUM]

Nice job Roy, I always have my tractors wheels dished out as far as possible stability being the number one thing in mind. Do you think you're going to keep it that way? Or just for the winter months with the chains? I think most dealers should give the customer an option to dish the wheels out from factory standards, especially before they load them makes life easy when installing chains or mowing on hills take care

 

[defed]

i leave mine out all the time. i did it for stability, but seeing as i only gained 2 inches overall, not sure it did much. but the chains fit better and they aren't wider than my loader bucket, so it's good enough.

i also turned my fronts out to see what difference it made. they gain alot more width, and are wider than the rears AND the loader bucket (and my 59 blower when i get it fixed up).

 

[dcyrilc]

i leave mine out all the time. i did it for stability, but seeing as i only gained 2 inches overall, not sure it did much. but the chains fit better and they aren't wider than my loader bucket, so it's good enough.

i also turned my fronts out to see what difference it made. they gain alot more width, and are wider than the rears AND the loader bucket (and my 59 blower when i get it fixed up).

I've never seen much point in widening the front. With the pivoting front axle there is no increase to stability.

 

[crusty 1]

I've never seen much point in widening the front. With the pivoting front axle there is no increase to stability.

Hey Cyril,very good talking with you the other evening!Your picture of the duals installed on your tractor begs an answer"got grease?":laughing::laughingave

 

[RoyJackson]

Nice job Roy, I always have my tractors wheels dished out as far as possible stability being the number one thing in mind. Do you think you're going to keep it that way?

Yep, they'll stay reversed. The only thing I was concerned about was enough clearance to check the air pressure (with the valve stems inside), but that turned out to be no problem.
Also, my lawn is sloped, so I want that added stability.

 

[YesDeere]

Mr. Roy, thanks for posting this. I was getting ready to put my chains on and was wondering about the clearance. Saw a thread a while ago about swapping. Remember they said that it only gave an inch a side. Wich would be enough. Thanks for saving me a new thread. I don't know if you remember but I got the chains for my old 790. But I have the same size r4s on my 4310. Bring on that snow

 

[Mechanos]

I know it's a different tractor, different wheels/tires, etc. but I was surprised at the amount of width gained when reversing the R1's on my 955. I'm getting ready to mount a 70A (after I go buy it and pick it up) so I want to reverse the wheels. In my instance, it gains me 8.5" total width.

 

[Willl]

I wish. My 790 came with one piece welded wheels.

 

[Mechanos]

Well, just be sure I didn't use the wrong terminology... I swapped sides with the wheels.

 

[Chuck Oppermann]

I have a 3720 with the larger R4s. I swapped sides and even the difference was not much at all. Maybe for some skinny chains it might be enough. I sure wouldn't put chains on it because chains do get sloppy at times. After I got some wheel extenders and put them on one side I noticed the original lug bolts didn't seem long enough. I also noticed that on the side with the swapped wheel, the lug bolts also were not sticking through the hub like the way they are from the factory. Just swapping sides makes the lugs to short. At least on my tractor and I didn't like that.

 

[RoyJackson]

After I got some wheel extenders and put them on one side I noticed the original lug bolts didn't seem long enough. I also noticed that on the side with the swapped wheel, the lug bolts also were not sticking through the hub like the way they are from the factory. Just swapping sides makes the lugs to short. At least on my tractor and I didn't like that.

By "Extenders", do you mean wheel spacers? If that's the case, you should have been supplied with longer studs or bolts (most Deeres I've seen use bolts) or something in the instructions discussing the need for longer bolts or studs.
Also, just by swapping side to side shouldn't have any effect on the length protruding through. (Disregarding any "extenders" or spacers) Those bolts are going through the wheel's hub just as they had before...no change in thickness (again, disregarding any extender or spacer).
You might want to recheck what you did...I think you may not have that wheel installed correctly.

 

[Sumpter]

I reversed mine, but left the valve stems out. Just flipped the inner wheel. Gained about 4 inches total. Didn't notice much difference in stability, but have plenty of room for the chains. Didn't want to take out the plastic fenders.

 

[dwost]

I'm getting ready to do this as to gain some width. I have a couple of dumb questions.

1) What are you guys using to jack and support the rear end to do the swap? All my jack stands are too short. Did you buy the taller ones (expensive) or rig something up to get the both back wheels off the ground?

2) I have a farm jack, (and several auto jacks) what is the best jack point on the back to get both sides off the ground at the same time?

3) what is the weight of the 28" R-4 wheel assembly? Can I do this myself or will I need some help?

TIA for the help!

 

[RoyJackson]

I'm getting ready to do this as to gain some width. I have a couple of dumb questions.

1) What are you guys using to jack and support the rear end to do the swap? All my jack stands are too short. Did you buy the taller ones (expensive) or rig something up to get the both back wheels off the ground?

2) I have a farm jack, (and several auto jacks) what is the best jack point on the back to get both sides off the ground at the same time?

3) what is the weight of the 28" R-4 wheel assembly? Can I do this myself or will I need some help?

TIA for the help!

I use a standard hydraulic floor jack under the drawbar bracket. If your jackstands are too short, put a block of wood under them. Don't use a cinderblock (they can shatter).
You only jack enough for those tires to clear (maybe 1/4").
It's best to do this on a concrete floor. If you do it on asphalt, you definitely want a block of board under the jack stands.

As far as the weight...if your tires are filled, you definitely want help. Even if not loaded, it's a lot easier (and safer) with two people (one controlling the jack while the other mounts the tires.

 

[dwost]

Cool, thanks Roy for the feedback. That is kinda what I was planning on doing (using blocking) but wanted to check with the experts first! Mine are not filled so I may give it a shot solo first. I'll be doing this in my garage so shouldn't have any issues with it sinking in. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.