rip cutting into a stump

[Bedlam]

Would I be right to think that after I cut a tree down, that if I use the chainsaw to cut down into the stump that I should sharpen the chain to a straight across angle?(no angle to it as you do if you are using it to rip lumber from the logs.) As the downward cutting action would be ripping as opposed to crosscut.
Allan

 

[scott_vt]

Would I be right to think that after I cut a tree down, that if I use the chainsaw to cut down into the stump that I should sharpen the chain to a straight across angle?(no angle to it as you do if you are using it to rip lumber from the logs.) As the downward cutting action would be ripping as opposed to crosscut.
Allan

Allan,
Im not sure on what your planning to do by cutting into the end grain, but I dont think you can just arbitrarily change the angle of the teeth on the saw. At times after I have cut a tree down and cut into sections or rounds, I have occassionally cut into the end grain to drive a splitting wedge into the round to split it into pieces. The chainsaw obviously crosscuts much better than cutting into end grain ! There may be special chains that you can buy that have a more conducive angle for end grain.

 

[Bedlam]

What I am doing is, after using the chainsaw to down the tree, (crosscut). I have the stump which I have cut as close to the ground as possible.
I want to then cut downward into it hopefully below grade. This would then be cutting with the grain(rip cut).
When you use the chainsaw to"rip" cut such as with a beam maker or other device to rip logs down to lumber, they sell or you can re-cut the teeth so they are 90 degrees rather than the original angle.
I plan to use an older used chain and grind the teeth , in the machine sharpener to 90 degrees.
Even with a freshly sharpened chain it is slow going when you cut with the grain.
I didn't know if anyone has changed theirs or any other tricks to get the stumps cut to below grade.
Thanks
Allan

 

[neverenough]

http://www.arboristsite.com/ A little more than halfway down the home page is the link to the chainsaw forum. Otherwise, towords the top is a homeowners help forum that might be helpful too.

 

[Egon]

The rock buried in the tree stump will not care which way you have sharpened the saw.

 

[john_bud]

Bedlam,

I do hope you are wearing a helmet and chainsaw pants / boots when you are doing this. It is NOT a safe operation and is likely to severely injure you.

Prepare yourself by reading up on kick back and tip cutting using a chainsaw. Then read the statistics on injuries and fatalities for loggers. If you still want to do this, have someone with several large pressure bandages, a cell phone, first aid experience and a fast car with you.

Good luck and say hello to St. Peter for me!

jb

 

[JimR]

The angle should be set at 5 degrees for ripping a log. I have a few ripping chains in my collection for ripping logs. It is basically the same chain but skip toothed and almost a square cut angle. On a small saw you could use a standard chain. Just cut the angle back to 5 degrees.

 

[turnkey4099]

My method is to dig a trench about 6" deep around the stump, wash the crap off the stump as best I can, start with a sharp chain and cut the stump off so it will be 2-4" under ground level. I can usually do it with just one chain (have to sharpen it afterwards of course) but I have had to use 2 or 3 to get a big stump done. Any deeper than that, you are in for a stump grinder.

Harry K

 

[czechsonofagun]

I do the same thing. Plunge cut in the stump. Also I have and used ripping chain, but for such a short cut you dont need to bother with cutting angles.

Stump cut like that i use to burn liquids in - like gas used for cleaning bearings etc - it helps to disintegrate the stump.

Somebody told me, that after this plunge cut you coudl easily fill it up with black powder and split the stump with explosion. Did not try it - and nto sur if I ever will - you are on your own here. But take lot of pictures if you do

 

[deerhunterf350]

A Stump Grinder seems to be the Quickest, Safest, and most of all ENGINEERED to do this on a repeated basis. Yes it is an expensive piece of equipment to own, but a 2 day Weekend rental wouldn't be to bad and grinding all the stumps that have been cut previously should not be a problem.

From what I have read it sounds like you are wanting to stand over the Stump and "GRIND" the stump out with the Tip of the Blade on the Chainsaw. If this is being done on a very large stump or for a number of small stumps that is going to be very exhausting process, not to mention the Excessive wear on the chainsaw mainly from the vibrating/bouncing of the tip of the blade. And as mentioned earlier, if the saw KICKS BACK or jumps to one side( bye-bye foot) it might be nice to have a fully staffed TRAMA unit located 15 feet from the location.

If it were me, I would stick with what a chainsaw is intened for and a little safer when CROSSCUTTING Lumber. And rent a Grinder for one or more weekends.

 

[Bedlam]

Another idea is this site.
http://www.progressivefarmer.com/farmer/landowner/article/0,24672,1113920,00.html

For getting rid of stumps. I wasn't intending to "grind' the whole stump. I make several crosscuts so that the salt, and now powered milk can get into the stump. Most of my stumps are on real uneven ground, so a grinder would be difficult to maneuver.But still a possibility.
Al

 

[jimmysisson]

I would think the gas/whatever would keep the fungi from attacking the stump, and slow the rotting? No?
How does the salt/powdered milk work? And how well?
Thanks, Jim

 

[JimR]

You could drill holes in it and pour stump rot into it also.

 

[Bedlam]

The milk supposedly makes the fungi get to work faster. According to the article anyway.
I looked up the stump rot chemical, and It would be expensive for me. There are about 100 plus stumps of various sizes.

 

[JimR]

Would a backhoe be easier or maybe TNT (smile)?

 

[deerhunterf350]

It may be a little off the subject but.

From what I have read and heard. The reason stumps take so long to Rot out/Decay enough to be popped out of the Ground. Is that the growing tree is cut down, it tries resprotting and continues "Trying" to grow for 2 or more years after the tree has been cut down.

So What I am trying is Kill the Tree first, in the spring, if it is not standing close to something that can be damaged if the trees should fall during a storm let them stand all summer possibly 2 seasons. Then fall the tree leaving a 4 foot stump, for leverage and try pulling/popping the tap root to remove the Stump.

I found a BroadLeaf herbicide at a Farm supply store , "Lamine 2-4 D" relatively cheap $34.99 for 2.5 gallon, and it has instructions for "Forestry Use". It refers to using a "Tree Injector" and injecting so many ounces below the bark, based on the Size of the Tree Trunk. I put a small Generator on a trailer and drove around to a few "Test" trees and drilled 1/2" holes 3" deep at 12 ,3, 6, 9 o'clock positions downward at an angle, bought a Turkey baster to fill the holes, and I filled the holes with the 2-4 D

I did that May 27th, The trees were in full foliage , after less than 2 months , not any more , not a leaf on any of the Trees. Now I will wait til the winter, fall one of the test trees and try pulling or digging under stump with FEL in moist spring dirt to see if one season is sufficent or if they need to stand longer for the root system to decay for easy stump removal.

All that being said, if your are on a tight time frame and the trees and stumps must be removed fast, this process is out.

 

[Egon]

Just remove a layer of bark from around the tree. It will die. This used to be done in the long ago when clearing land using horses and hand labour.

 

[Bedlam]

Yep. Girdling the tree. I actually remember learning that in like 4 th grade.I wont hint what year though.LOL