RIP or REPair?

Sabooo · Apr 28, 2006

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My challange is that I need it done in chassis, too expensive otherwise. )</font>

I guess this is the heart of the issue - I have no doubt that no matter what I uncover through all of this there are available repairs out there. But sooner or later the cost of the repair is going to outweight the utility of the machine.

I'm a bit hamstrung as I have no way to tow the tractor to the shop. I either need to pay to have it taken in, or find a way to fix it onsite. If there are deep down block issues, I'm not sure I even have the skills (or tools) to find them, let alone fix em.

But for now I'll keep at it and see how far I get.

Birdhunter1 · Apr 28, 2006

Why is it so difficult for you to remove the head on it?

Hib · Apr 28, 2006

Birdhunter, for the life of me I can't remember. This was about 8 years ago.

Sabooo, I had never really worked on an engine untill my TO30 needed some TLC. Bought a repair manual and tore into it. Totally rebuilt engine, rings, cylinders, sleeves, main bearings, clutch and pressure plate. Rebuilt oil pump and govenor. Paid to have crank ground and a rebuilt head othewise did it all myself. Great learning experience. I was working a LOT of hours at the time so didn't work on it only a hour or so now and then, took me 6 months. Didn't need any special tools. Total cost was in the $1400 neighborhood. If you have room to keep her around and a few spare hours, you might think about fixing it yourself /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I'm gonna paint her pretty one of these days.

Sabooo · Apr 29, 2006

BirdHunter - The head is already off - as stated I plan on taking to a machine/engine shop on Monday if time permits.

The whole project comes down to time and money, and how much of both to dump into this project. I have a 60hr+ a week job, 2 kids and a lovely wife that all get time before the tractors do. There's not alot left over each week.

It can stay in the garage bay where it is (Its lived there for 30 years already, a few more wont hurt /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ) I'm coming around to the opinion that since it's already broken its pretty unlikely that a bit of 'on the job training' will make matters too much worse.

So be prepared - lots of newbie tractor mechanic questions likely to be incoming over the next few weeks.

Birdhunter1 · Apr 29, 2006

You really don't have too big of a fix there if you get it to a machine shop and see how bad it is. Most likely that crack can be JB welded over after grinding it out.

As for the water being mixed with you roil I wouldn't worry too much about it, just wipe/clean everything real good, take off you oil pump and run kerosene through it (do not use a parts washer on it) and wipe it all off.
Once you have it all running agin check the oil religiously and change it after maybe 8-20 hours. If it still looks like oil then you're in good shape!

JoeinTX · May 1, 2006

Yeah, I think everyone is pretty much on here. Lot's of people have fixed-up bigger issues with the JB Welds and such and had the machine ticking again for years of service.

You mentioned the $3000 figure. I ask you-can you find a decent replacement for this rig for anything less? I bought an 8N last year for $1000 with not too dissimilar problems money-wise. I did what I was comfortable with (replacing PTO shaft, radiator, carb kit, etc) and then still sent it to the local shop for a motor rebuild. I wound up spending another $1900 on top of the original price, but it's now a fine running little toot and money well spent. Consider the sentimental value on top of that and $3000 to get this little outfit back in field shape is nothing.

Farmwithjunk · May 1, 2006

There isn't much that man has made that can't be RE-made or at least repaired. It's just a matter of cost vs. practicality. Sometimes pratical goes sailing right out the window when a project like this pops up. You'll have to be the judge of "how much is too much"?

I recently sold a tractor (Ford 3000) that's been mine for 34 years. It was worn out, broke down, tired, and all used up. I got about 75% of the tractors "in good shape" value when I sold it. In turn, I then bought a mint 3000 Ford to replace it, spending just $990 more than I sold the old beater for. It needed an engine rebuild, new clutch, hydraulic work, new rubber, new paint, and a laundry list of small items. I figure it would have cost about $3000 to bring the old one back to the standards of its replacement. So, I "saved" over 2 grand that way.

But I no longer have the first new tractor I ever owned. (Yes, it was like watching someone haul off your first born child....)

I'm not a big fan of "patching" engine parts. I'd explore options on getting a rebuilt head if you plan on keeping the old tractor.

And I'd spend a few coins on a gallon of anti-freeze before new winter.

skent · May 1, 2006

The JB weld will work. I have a 1950 Case with the same problem. My Uncle bought it new in 1950, and the first winter he owned it, they had an early freeze and he ended up with a 6 inch crack in the side if the block, a 2 inch crack in the head (similar to yours) and a cracked radiator tank. They used something similar to JB Weld (was not an epoxy though) and it would hold for a few years and need to be re-done. Then I bought the tractor from him in the 1970's, I cleaned it up and used JB weld in all the cracks. It hasn't leaked since, and it's still a working tractor (not a showpiece - yet)