Ripping a treated 4x4

[Junkman]

There is no need for flashing in that location. It will cause more problems than it will resolve. I will say that step flashing to some is easier, but where flashing is needed, a long strip of 14 gauge aluminum properly installed would be preferential. My experiences with the thin step flashing has been disastrous on my home. Everyone has their own preferred methods, and it isn't for me to say that they are wrong. When I had a professional roofer do the repair, he showed me how to properly flash the roof to the wall so it will never become a problem again. After the flashing was installed under the siding, the bottom of the flashing was sealed with a silicone on the bottom edge and had ice and water shield installed over the top of the roof edge and that ice and water shield was extended out about 24" from the wall. Then the shingles were replaced. After he did this repair for me, it was the first time in 20+ years that I didn't get any dripping water in the garage with a ice dam at the eaves from a leaking dormer.

 

[Slamfire]

I think I liked the copper best of all. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[have_blue]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My question is, how does one go about ripping a treated 4x4 on a 45 degree angle?
/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif )</font>

Rotate the sole plate on your circurlar saw to 45*, rip 1 side, then turn it 180* amd rip the other side. If you have a little bit of a web left, the sawzall will make short work of it.

You may be able to clamp a short piece of angle iron to the edge of your sole plate to make it nest precisely on the corner of the 4x4, and track real accurate.

Regardless, of how you do it, make sure your wife is there helping you keep the 4x4 steady. Make sure y'all wear a dust masks or bandanas. That treated stuff is really nasty.

 

[hitekcountry]

Richard

If you don’t mind I’ll toss in another idea on how to deal with this issue.

Remove the rafter that sits against the wall and cut back the sheeting to that second rafter and treat that edge the same as the opposite outside edge. That leaves a space of about a foot between that roof and the wall.

Easy to do, costs you nothing, can’t trap water so no possibility of dry rot, and I think it will look better than any of the other solutions.

Fred

 

[beenthere]

hitekcountry
I like your idea too (even better than mine) as it gives some more space between the roof and the wall.
Lots of room to dry out from what little moisture will get there.

 

[BX23Seattle]

Sounds like you have other options but just an FYI, most circular saw have a cutouts slots in the bottom plate where you can slide in a fence for making long rip cuts. Both my Skill saw brand (worm drive) and regular Dewalt have this feature. The rip fence can be purchased at the big box stores for about $10

 

[hitekcountry]

Beenthere

Actually I got the idea from you, I just expanded on it.

Fred

 

[woodlot]

Wow, that flashing job is...well...lets just say "not to code." Others have given you good advice on flashing but I think one thing was not mentioned and that is your gas line running up the wall and behind your flashing. That is going to be a problem area. In order to get a proper flashing job done that line will need to be relocated. There is no way that I can for-see to proberly flash that seam with the line as it presently sits. Also, if you decide to procede with the gas line as is, do not let aluminum flashing touch that copper gas line. You will end up with galvonic corrosion and possibly degrate the line. I agree that flashing is not needed here. Leaving the sheeting and joist back from the siding is a good option, don't trap water, you could even install drip edge to prevent water from getting to your sheeting. Unfortunitly you will probibly still need to flash the joint where your beam connects to the house.

 

[woodlot]

Rich, For some strange reason your project has intreged me. Probibly because your so close to a real good job. You just need a few tweeks. I've got questions for you, what do you use this area for? Do you really sit out there in the rain?

My idea is to transform this area from a "covered porch" to a "pergola." I'd rip the sheeting off and install lattice-work. Then plant climbing plants, vines, hanging potted plants, etc. You'll end up with a nice shaded natural area and you won't have a care in the world about rain. I'd trim the vines back from the house yearly, but that's probibly optional. I'm not sure if you used PT lumber for your rafters, but the way the tails are exposed like that I'm hoping you did. If you didn't you've got another issue to deal with no matter what you choose to do. Good luck!

 

[Richard]

Boy, a number of comments while I was gone.

Fred, VERY interesting idea. I see the logic and will show the idea to the wife. It could fix a number of issues. (sigh) I just spoke to the wife on removing the first rafter and got the big thumbs down. Personally, I like the idea. I’m going to review it again with her later.

Woodlot.. I’m not sure if it’s obvious or not, but the flashing is just sitting there with a single nail tacked into it to keep it from blowing around. It’s not attached to the wall/roof in ANY way/shape/fashion other than a single nail to hold it. If you knew that and still maintain it’s not to code, I’d like to know/understand what I’m doing wrong with it.

As far as the gas line, you are the first one to notice that and that’s something I’d not thought of at all. It IS a gas line (propane) that goes up to the fireplace we have in the master bedroom.

Woodlot II: Do we sit out there in the rain: Answer is yes. The wife has actually taken the dogs out with her during a light rain and taken a nap while laying down on the chaise.

One reason I want it to be a solid roof is so I can get on top of it to keep my gutters clean. We use to have a retractable “sheet” we used. Kinda funny, she had a cotton tarp and had bright idea of painting UGL drylock on both sides of it to waterproof it. She also installed grommets so we (I) could hang it. During this mistake, I kept telling her “why are we putting all this work into this when you KNOW we’re just going to redo it and put a roof there”. She maintained “this might work, we have the materials, let’s give it a try”

Well, a year later, the cotton material was ripping, was rotting where it was holding some water and in general, was a BAD idea. She wanted me to keep the tarp “for future use just in case” (I tossed it into dumpster figuring I’ll react to “future use” when the time came)

Rafters are in fact PT lumber. Plywood is B/C exterior that is painted on the underside to match house.

I’ve attached sort of an after picture to give an idea of what’s going on under it today. We're going to end up with some lights under it and a fan.