Road Building

   / Road Building #11  
Dave, looks like things are shaping up. The best advice I can give about road building is the dryer you can keep it the better road you will have and the less stone you will have to put on it in years to come. Make sure you take care of any wet spots and keep it graded so you don't have any water laying on it after a rain. A little water makes a big mess and any place that there is water will make the road soft and cause problems and potholes.
 
   / Road Building #12  
davemhughes said:
Lots of rain here today.....very muddy.....did manage to rough blade and chainsaw my way the entire 2500 ft

Looks like work...I mean fun. Nice job.
 
   / Road Building
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Well for now I just need something to drive on to get back there and start clearing the build site and get those thorny locus tress cut out and the land bush hogged. I called an excavator service and they were suposed to show up last week. The one thing I truely beleive is anytime they say they will be there on a given date and time is that the will not be there. So I will do as much as I can myself.

I plan on doing this in phases......the county guys are going to build my entry (1st 50ft) that ties into the county gravel road. The tube I have in there now they will take out (not to county code) and they will pick up the 24in x 24ft metal culvert (I paid $345.00 for the tube) I ordered and deliver it then use their case backhoe to set it the way they want plus bring in dirt and several loads of rock.......its a good deal as it free except for the tube purchase. Plus the excavator service wanted $1200 to just do this part....I did not know the county would do it for free.......I love it when your government actually does something for you.

I am going to lay as much of the wood chips as I can down as a base....it worked well n the slope....it is hard to see but the slope use to to be at a very steep angle. The chips gave good traction and I can get all of them I want for free.....the county has a Huge pile of them and I know it will take my 18ft trailer a while to carry enough but I figure if I haul a few loads ever week eventually I will have that part done. Then in the spring I will get a 60T load of rock every payday ($400 delivered)......by fall it should be covered.

Then get the well drilled and cased. The really bad news is the electric company(@*%#@$#)....I fall just inside a different electric company's area and not the larger power company. The larger one Westar Energy puts in $16,000 worth of power poles free of charge if you build your home total electric. Thats more than enough power poles. But.....DS&O rural co-op charges you $4.00 a ft for power if you use poles and $7.00 a ft if you trench and lay them underground. I have to pay them $300 just to come look and give a firm price on power. So big money to get power back there. I am exploring alternate power options but in the end they got me and I will pay.
 
   / Road Building #14  
The wood chips only work short time.
Next year they'll be half decomposed and create a slicky layer that doesnt drain water. It'll be a mess by then...
 
   / Road Building #15  
Bury your electrical, with 2500ft of overhead powerlines and a good ice storm will mean you won't get service restored till the multy households do.
 
   / Road Building #16  
Dave,

You've gotten some good advise here. Remember - water is the enemy of a solid road. I would like to add one other suggestion. Get some geotextile fabric for your road. It is relatively cheap and will do wonders for keeping soft spots and pot holes away. Near st. Louis we can get Mirafi 500X (which is 12.5' x 420') for $260 per roll. I have found it to be money well spent. Keeps the rock from getting lost into your subbase, spreads those heavy loads so you don't get rutting, and allows you to get by with less rock.

KEG
 
   / Road Building #17  
davemhughes said:
Well for now I just need something to drive on to get back there and start clearing the build site and get those thorny locus tress cut out and the land bush hogged. I called an excavator service and they were suposed to show up last week. The one thing I truely beleive is anytime they say they will be there on a given date and time is that the will not be there. So I will do as much as I can myself.

I have had some experience with locust trees. If I could get english walnuts to grow 1/10 as good as locust trees do I would be a very happy camper. I have tried cutting them down. out of the stump that I have left when I have done that 4 more grow back. I have pulled them out of the ground and got as many roots as I can then in the spring I only have a few dozen new ones. I have had some luck with spraying a poison on them and then when they die pulling them and the roots attatched out of the ground. That way is working sort of. I have gotten from a forest of them around my workshop to just three or 4 and I am going to try to get them this spring.
 
   / Road Building #18  
Using fabric ontop of your subgrade and under your stone is fine. Just remember that its not magic carpet. You still need to get your subgrade and drainage prepared properly. Also don't skimp on the stone just because you have laid down fabric. If there isn't enough stone on the fabric it will just pull and wrinkle when the heavy trucks run on it to spread your stone..
 

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