Road Improvement Question

[idaguide]

I have a 400 yard driveway that I maintain with my boxblade. (Rearblade and loader in winter...) The boxblade does a great job, but there's something I'm not sure how to do.

It's time to add some rock topping, and since I have a pretty good base I want to add crushed "three-quarter minus" and spread it on top. Moisture and driving on it has always embedded previously, but that was before I was grading it with the tractor.

It's quite clear now that if I put the rock on, the next time I grade the rock will be scraped off and fill the box. I would constantly be redistributing the rock, it seems. The rearblade would have similar problems.

Does anyone have any suggestion as to how I can create a nice crushed surface but also be able to grade without tearing it up? I can't see it.

Thanks,
grae

 

[john_bud]

two choices.

1) Lower the scarifiers and dig out the pot holes and move the new gravel with the box. Lots of work.

2) Tip the box back (lengthen the top link a lot) so the front blade of the box just (just!) touches and the weight of the box is on the back blade. If the box has a fixed position rear blade that's what you need to do. If you have a swinging only rear blade, tip it down some so the front blade digs about 1/2 to 3/4".

Last 2 passes in each direction raise the adjustable side link and make a crown. You have to "drive on the wrong side of the road" to do it right with the link rectracted. If you extend the side link, it is weaker and could break. (ask me how I know that!)

jb

 

[ampsucker]

if 3/4 minus at your local quarry means it includes the fines, then you should be alright. the fines will lock in the larger pieces and you can still get a good pack.

best to do as soon as it's spread the first time is wet it down and pack it good with a roller or some heavy equipment driven over it.

amp

 

[schmism]

Does anyone have any suggestion as to how I can create a nice crushed surface but also be able to grade without tearing it up? I can't see it.

Thanks,
grae

i use my rear blade and always try to move the top 1/2 to 1" of material. this allows me to cut out any potholes or tire ruts. usually its one or two pass(s) pulling the material to the middle down each side. then usually 2 passes down the middle to smooth the material back out, create proper crown.

moving the material this way, with the rear blade, allows good mixing of the top larger rock and fines that are carved up in the process createing a good locking surface that compacts and stays well.

note the process above is how real gravel roads are maintained with a motor grader, and can not be duplicated with either a box blade or driveway "grader" blade.

 

[teg]

With the Box Blade, I extend the top link pretty far. I don't know about the measurements above... I just make sure the front blade will NOT dig in. With a rear blade, a friend of mine just turns the blade backwards and drives forward (using it like the rear blade of the BB). (clear as mud?? ). Is the driver for the gravel going to spread his load on the driveway? Normally, they do a great job spreading it...

 

[idaguide]

Very helpful responses. I really appreciate it. Sounds like my best bet is a combination of the two implements. Pre-gravel with the box, post with the blade.

Thanks.
grae

 

[idaguide]

So when I'm plowing in winter, I usually just drop my rear blade and go. If the fines and the small rock are pretty well locked up by then, do you think most of it will stay in place?

Trying to decide whether to do it now or wait 'til spring.

Thanks again in advance.
grae

 

[browns40]

I suppose if I were doing that job I'd build up my crown & slopes first...
Scarify the heck out of the whole works...
Spread the new material out from "starter piles" along the route over the top of the dug up stuff...
Go over the finished works with the rear angled waaay back til satisfied...

Sounds like a fun project to utilize almost every facet of the box blades capabilities...

I wouldn't hesitate to do it this time of year... get the slopes right & the road compacted and the spring run-off shouldn't be an issue.

Good Luck!

 

[idaguide]

Good thoughts, Browns...
Thanks again!
grae

 

[escavader]

IM ABOUT TO DO THE EXACT SAME PROJECT ,but i have a woods landscape rake,im gonna try to spread it with.Ihave a 5ft homemade dump trailer for my atv,im going to load with the KUBOTA ,tailgate spread the material on,and slope with my rake...ihope.Iwant a real good surface,because ive got a new blower for the bota,and i think it will be easier on it[fewer broken shear bolts]
ALAN

 

[crashz]

In all cases, good compaction will be key. Once shaped and graded the way you want the driveway, rent or hire a contractor to use a vibratory roller to pack in the gravel.

When I took Soil Mechancis in school the rule of thumb for most compaction equipment is that in most cases three passes will bring the material to 90% or more of the lab determined dry unit weight. The moisture content must be within the optimal range, and for a granular material is 7-15%. Compaction depths would vary with equipment used, but for a finished surface, the vibratory smooth drum roller gives the best bang for the buck.

The benefit to compaction with a roller verses anything else is that it will smooth things over so well that the gravel will have a surface similar to asphalt. And once you get a good frost, the rear blade won't do any damage while plowing snow.

 

[fish6942]

To address your concerns about picking up the stones when clearing snow, here's what I do. For the first few (hopefully small) snowfalls I drive over the snow to pack it down. I use the Suburban and drive up and down the driveway moving from side to side with each pass. What I want is for the snow to compact and freeze and make a solid ICE surface. Once I have that then the driveway stones are under the ice and don't get picked up by my ATV plow or snowblower.

We do have a decent hill in the driveway so for that I occasionally spread some sand over that.

 

[bx24d]

cut a 3" or 4" diameter PVC pipe lengthwise and slide it over the blade of your rear blade. The C-shaped pipe clings to the rear blade and I go up and down my 300' gravel driveway without creating more work for myself in the Spring.