Rod vs Rail pallet forks - pros and cons.

[Dan69GTX]

I'm in the process of building a set of pallet forks. There are two types that I'm aware of - "Rod" and "Rail". Typically with the Rod style the forks are attached to the frame via a rod upon which they can rotate and "float" when placed on the ground (as you tilt the frame down they will not tilt down with the frame - they will "hang" there on the rod). The "Rail" style are attached by two rails - one on top and one on bottom. Typically the top is notched to help prevent the forks from sliding sideways. The fork is typically attached to the top and bottom rail so you can press down with the forks and they will not move away from the frame as the "rod" style would.

Which style do you have. Do you like/dislike that style. And of course the WHY.

I will use your answers to help decide which is best for me.

Attached are pics of the "Rod" and "Rail" style.

Thanks!
Dan

 

[MrJimi]

I would say both designs are good because they are both used in commercial applications and my Case pallet forks are the rod style and rated very heavy and just in case your looking, mine are for sale with a skid steer mount for a Case skid steer, pictures in my gallery just send me a PM and I will fill you in
Jim

 

[Mith]

If you are just planning on moving pallets with them then the rod type would probably be the best.

I use mine for moving logs and other non-standard uses, I went with the rail type, so I could drag stuff back towards me with them, and force them down under things, and use the down pressure of the loader to sqush things down with them (works grat on compacting brush piles). Works well for me.

 

[gordon21]

If you use the pallett forks occasionally OR use them on rough ground, get the rod type. As you see, the forks will lay flat on the ground as the carrier frame will pivot.

If you plan to use them daily or only on a flat hard surface, then the bar type would be better.

Occasional users need the "help" of the bar. Think of the first time you used a backhoe FEL or similar device with hydraulics. Your motions will be jerky and you will be doing a lot of correcting.

Do NOT overbuy. Heavy duty pallett forks look great, but hurt you if they take away half of your lifting capacity. My little 790 does wonders with the FEL. However, my WR Long forks are heavy and cut into my lifting capacity. Those same set of forks would be plenty strong enough if installed on a tractor with 2-3 times the HP.

Your capacity to lift heavy palletts out of the back of a truck bed is HIGHER than the ability to lift the same pallet from the ground up that high if your hydraulics are small like mine.

For example: I was able to lift my Jinma woodchipper in its shipping crate up a couple inches from the bed of my pickup. It weighed about 880# according to the shipping invoice. I then backed up slowly and ever so gently lowered it to the ground. There is no way I could have lifted it from ground level up more than few inches before the hydraulics would quit. I think my tractor is rated for something like 800# out front, but that does NOT include the FEL bucket or the forks. The 350# of fork weight gets deducted from your total lifting capacity. I now mentally plan on maximum forklift loads of 500# or less if it needs to be lifted more than a foot off the ground.

 

[kennyd]

Hey Dan,
I made a cross between the two, you can view the pics HERE

 

[radman1]

My vote is by far the rail style. I have both the rod and rail style. I use the rod style only when I have too. The only advantages to the swinging rod style is they are a little easier to get out of pallets since the tips have more freedom to move and they are easier to slide in and out. Everything else is advantage to the rail style. You can push/pull with the rail style. The rod style is just too loose and mobile.

 

[Dan69GTX]

MrJimi

Thanks for the offer, but I already bought the forks this past weekend at an auction, now I just need to make the frame for them. The are old and off of something (how's that for an accurate description).

Gordon21,
Thanks for the advice. I realized that when I got my forks - part of it by mistake. There were 2 sets of forks at the auction - I ended up getting the lighter duty set that were old, rusted and ugly. I helped the guy load the other set and two of us could barely lift it in the truck. Mine have got to be half the weight. I thought about those large ones reducing the lift capacity and ended up being glad I got the ones I did. I will be making a QA for my Kubota L3130 - so what I have should be easily strong enough for my lift capacity. Now if it were going on my old Case DC....well....lets just say it was designed to be a manue bucket!


Kennyd - I saw your link when I was researching bucket forks (which I just made - see the end of this post)
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/102060-forks-my-fel-6.html

Why did you make it a bar and a rail? Can you allow the forks to pivot if you want? They look nice!

Thanks!
Dan

 

[kennyd]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/102060-forks-my-fel-6.html

Why did you make it a bar and a rail? Can you allow the forks to pivot if you want? They look nice!

Thanks!
Dan

I have no idea! Other than I had the bar, and it just seemed like it was easy to get the forks on/off. And yes, if you slide the forks on the bar without engaging the bottom "tab" then they will pivot.
The carrier frames that hold the forks for real are SUPER heavy, so I knew I wanted to make my own carrier. As it is the 42" forks weight allot!

 

[Dan69GTX]

Kennyd,

Thanks. I really like that idea - it would give the best of both worlds! Now to start the design and dig through the scrap metal pile.

Dan

 

[dfkrug]

Do NOT overbuy. Heavy duty pallett forks look great, but hurt you if they take away half of your lifting capacity. My little 790 does wonders with the FEL. However, my WR Long forks are heavy and cut into my lifting capacity. Those same set of forks would be plenty strong enough if installed on a tractor with 2-3 times the HP.

Your capacity to lift heavy palletts out of the back of a truck bed is HIGHER than the ability to lift the same pallet from the ground up that high if your hydraulics are small like mine.

Yes, those Long pallet fork frames are heavy. Some of those are 500-600#,
which takes a HUGE bite out of lifting capacity. That is why I custom-built
a fixed-width (non-adjustable) fork frame that weighs only about 200#,
but allows me to lift 1200# no problem. My fork spacing is a good
compromise that has rarely been a problem.

As for lifting force, that is a function of loader geometry and I think you
will find that lifting force is highest at ground level and lowest at max height.
The moment arm between loader cylinder pivot and boom is greatest
at the lowest FEL position.