Roll Cage Tie In Suggestions

[tinman565]

Its simple. If you run the tubing THRU the box....it will be less likely to bend, rip, or tear (way stronger as you now have BOTH sides holding the tube). Your way will work, but you are not gaining much strength by welding an inner piece to the SAME SIDE as the piece your putting over it. Your way can still tear or shear from that single side. You asked for a strength suggestion...and numerous people have told you how to make it super strong. You are obviously set with your idea. It will work...and probably be fine. What we are telling you is that of a few different ways to make this stronger, your way is not the number one choice for strength by people who do this stuff everyday. Go with your idea....your gonna anyway. Move on to the next part of the project, and get it done.

 

[Shield Arc]

What about using some gussets like this? After I drew it, I remembered you may not be able to use the top one. Maybe just a gusset on the bottom, and the two sides? Using gussets is an easy way to pick up more weld volume.

 

[Artisan]

What about using some gussets like this? After I drew it, I remembered you may not be able to use the top one. Maybe just a gusset on the bottom, and the two sides? Using gussets is an easy way to pick up more weld volume.

Can't do it on the top because the Anchor touches the bottom of the ROPS.
Possible 2 on a 45 at the bottom would tie it in, that's thinking outside the box!
I just walked out there and laid out the exact Center to Center of the short
tubes on on the Anchor itself and if I were to thru drill it, it'll start to daylight
on the rear side due to the radiused end, plus I used 1/2" x .25" flat bar to
make the radius so it would be difficult to drill less a mill w/ one plunge cut.
I appreciate the ideas...almost sounds like tinman is annoyed, certainly not
my intensions...I appreciate the input... and I will think it to death. :scratchchin:

 

[handirifle]

I don't think I am sure that you understand, what I am really meaning, because if you meant to say what I am really understanding you to mean, we wouldn't even be having this conversation. That sound about right?:laughing:

Seems like I've had this conversation before.

 

[rambler]

FWIW;

Prior to posting this post I thought about drilling one side and both sides.
I decided against it for this reason. I am taking a VERY strong member
and making it REALLY week by drilling all those holes! Now I stick my
tube in it and expect it to take up all the slack.

I'm a simple dirt farmer, but seems in any construction, there is a weak link.

If yousurface mount the tube to the square beam, that will be the weak area.

If you drill through and weld both sides, it will appear stronger, but actually you'll have about the same ring of melted metal in about the same place, sowon't be much different?

If you drill through and only well the far side, couple small tack welds on the inner tube wall, then the pipe wil be at max strength and the anchor point and the flex point will be 2 different points, probably strongest.

Adding gussets as mentioned to either design will boost the strength greatly, placing the shear & flex farther away from any flush connection.

Designing a roll cage implies a lot of liability that it actually works if/when needed - without any real testing for a one-off deal. I would guess that is why you got so many questions on how it's really working.

This whole deal is going to be clamped to the existing roll bar at the back ofthe tractor, and then something will extend down from your square bar to make front A-frame cage?

--->Paul

 

[Artisan]

Paul look at post #12 in this thread, it is a rough drawing
of what I think I will do. Thanx for the input!

 

[Shield Arc]

Personally I'd go with the gussets. But I'm real new to this welding fabrication thingie bob.
The reason I'd go with gussets is because of the HAZ on such thin material, I'd use no thicker than 1/4-inch thick plate for the gussets, and skip weld them also, this will spread the HAZ out more.
Like I said, the HAZ is my biggest concern!

 

[Artisan]

HAZ = ?

 

[tinman565]

Haz = Heat affected zone (keep welding in the same general area, and it actually starts getting WEAKER) thats why I recommended not doing it that way with the thickness of material your dealing with.

And I'm not annoyed....but he mentioned gussets in his first or second post...now you say he's thinking outside the box ? Point being, that gussets were mentioned long ago...but your stuck on your idea...and cant/wont absorb suggestions unless they deal with your tube inside a tube weld design.

 

[jim_wilson]

How strong does it have to be for .120 wall tube?
Only thing I can think of is drill holes and insert the round tubes through the box tube, and weld both sides. Or use gussets to pick up more weld volume on the one side.

That's one of the typical methods recommended for building a rollcage in an automobile. If you are attaching a round rollcage tube to say a square tube section of the frame - drill two holes the same diameter of the tube - insert the tube thru the holes - and then weld the round tube - on both sides of where it goes thru the square tube section of the frame.

If you just weld the round tube on top of the other square tube - you risk it shearing off - or punching thru if it gets hit with a big enough load.

Where the round tube comes out and extends down - reinforce with gussets to prevent sideways bending forces from shearing the tube off at the weld joint.