Roll Over Box Blade.

[BufordBoone]

I'm about to purchase a box blade. EA has a good video and I've researched the floating tailgate feature, don't think I need it.

I have seen people post about "rollover box blades". I tried the search function and came up with lots of stuff that is not related.

If anyone can post simple explanation about the different type of box blades, I'd certainly be appreciative.

These are the ones I know of:

Box Blade (scarifiers indivually and manually moved)
Floating (lockable) tailgate Box Blade
Rollover Box Blade

I am also aware of the hydraulically operated scarfiers. Think that would be the way to go if I made my living with a box blade but the cost is higher than I think would be advantageous to me in current situation.

Hope you all have a great weekend.

 

[jeff9366]

Rollover Box Blades have three positions, locked by a large pawl, moved my a large lever.

1. Pulling dirt.

2. Scarifiers Only

3. Smoothing dirt and pushing dirt

Your cannot use scarifiers and pulling dirt together.

I REALLY LIKE my 60" Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade.

I do not believe there is any means to attach hydraulics to a ROBB.

Three Point Hitch may have hydraulic Top Link and Lifting Rod control, but that is not part of ROBB.

I purchased my ROBB new-old-stock via eBay after watching for a year for just the right one.


ROBB VENDERS/MAKERS: Bush Hog, Dirt Dog, Cammond



MORE: Rollover Box Blade - Google Search

 

[BufordBoone]

Thanks, Jeff. That is very helpful in making a decision.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Something to have in the back of your mind, the ROBB is what use to be used commercially until the units with the hydraulic actuated rippers became available. Also the tractors that did this type (box blading) work were not as large or as heavy as the machines of today's professionals.

I happen to have 3 different Gannon ROBBS. A 36" unit used behind a garden tractor. A 65" unit behind my 5000lb tractor and an 81" unit that I use behind my 75hp 12,000lb tractor.

My recommendation for you would be to get either a 72" or an 84" unit if you can find one. I believe that Rhino may still have an 84". A&B use to have them, but I believe that they have discontinued them. A&Bs were much heavier, more like the Gannon's were.

 

[BufordBoone]

Thanks, Brian. FYI, I'm working thru analyzing the hydraulics we discussed, hope to be ready to order soon.

 

[bcp]

One minor disadvantage of the fixed rear blade is that you can't cut in a concave situation, like a hillside you want to dig into, or the back end of a cut. It just rides on the rear blade.

As in the dark red line:



Bruce

 

[BufordBoone]

BCP, that's not something I would have thought of. Thanks.

 

[prichard]

One minor disadvantage of the fixed rear blade is that you can't cut in a concave situation, like a hillside you want to dig into, or the back end of a cut. It just rides on the rear blade.

As in the dark red line:

View attachment 553705

Bruce

Just shorten the top link so front blade is below rear blade.

 

[bcp]

Just shorten the top link so front blade is below rear blade.

It won't shorten enough. Fully shortened, it might lower the front blade 3/4 inch below the rear. Not enough. It changes where on the slope it cuts, or not, a little bit.

Bruce

 

[jeff9366]

I am pretty sure all the B series have two pin holes in Lifting Rod stirrups, which change height of Lower Link lift.

(Higher Hole = Higher Lift) ((Higher Hole is the "normal" position.))

I use the lower Lifting Rod pin hole for deeper cuts with my ROBB occasionally when I want to drag dirt up a slope. I use the lower Lifting Rod pin hole with my tool bar Cultivator as normal position in order to get it into the dirt deep enough.

Heavier tractors have 3-4 Lifting Rod stirrup adjustment holes.

See photos.