roof shingle question

[bellweather]

The bozos who installed my roof left way too much shingle hanging over the eve, making it very difficult to clean gutters. I want to trim back the shingles a bit but am unsure of the best approach. I am considering using my Skill saw with an abrasive blade. I assume cutting by hand with some kind of a knife will be way too laborious. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

[Highbeam]

Why not add to the fascia board. I have this problem where the roofers expected the gutter guys to put in a 2x4" fascia board. The gutter guys mounted the gutters directly to the ends of the trusses, nice eh? I can't get my big paws in there to clean it so I go the easy route. Pop off the downspout and wash everything down the gutter to the opening.

Your shingle ends will look bad if you cut them, and that last row will be short. This is a very visible part of your house and I wouldn't risk a hack job.

The worst part about roofing is cutting the shingles. I cut them most of the way through with a box knife and then bend them until they snap. This is very difficult to do after installation.

 

[mathey]

I have the same problem on my barn roof, only I'm the bozo in this case...I read that you can trim them with a circular saw with the blade in backwards...I'm guessing an abrasive blade or a fine tooth plywood blade would have the same effect. The trick is to cut them without snagging and ripping.

 

[Freds]

They really aren't all that hard to trim with a hook blade in your utility knife. Just strike a line and have at it. I've trimmed hundreds of feet that way when I used to do architectural sheet metal for a roofing co.
I would be afraid the base of a circ saw would be hard to guide over the layers of shingles, knock some of the grit off and be more trouble than it's worth, not to mention gunking up the blade with tar. Of course, on the positive side it IS a power tool. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[bellweather]

snapping a line and using a hook blade sounds promising, or perhaps scoring and snapping. I wasn't too keen on using the circ saw for the reasons mentioned elsewhere. I can't thicker the facia board...I mean I can, but that would be way too much work for this buckaroo, though it sounds like it would work. thanks for the advice guys

 

[HammerFour]

I actually used tin snips on the shingles that were on my roof that had been installed to far out. They seemed to work fine.

 

[ns_in_tex]

What do you consider way too much?
I would think you might want/need, maybe 3/4" to keep water from getting behind the gutter, if it is like some.

 

[surfran]

I clean my gutters with my leaf blower so no need to get the hands in ever. Of course I do have a ranch with a 4/12 pitch so walking along is easy. It would probably be much more difficult on a ladder and more of a mess but still could be done with proper eye protection and suit up.

It's the slickest easiest way to get it done and it only takes few minutes when walking on the roof /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Might eliminate the need to cut the shingles at all /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Steve_Miller]

Is it possible to post a picture of what you are describing as this may help with an answer to your question? Like some have mentioned that they left them that way for a reason.

Steve

 

[bellweather]

I'll snap a picture. I am aware of the need for some overhang so as to keep water from getting under the shingles and behind the facia, however the new roof overhangs a good 2" beyond the previous roof. Even if I can trim off 1", it will facilitate cleaning the gutters. Using a leaf blower might work in the fall, but in the spring we get so much sludge from the trees and it stays wet. I actually scoop out buckets of the junk. When I'm done, I hose it all clean. It's a twice a year ritual.

 

[johnday]

bell; Use a hookblade from underneath and use the dripedge as your guide. As far as water getting under the shingles, I don't think thats an issue. The drip edge should have installed directly on the roof sheathing, then a 3' wide strip of icegaurd,[self adhereing bituminous strip] is placed over that, then the shingles. If you can get water between the sheathing and that strip, you've got a bigger problem. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

johndays helpful hint #1; Dont trim the roofing in the heat of the day. They'll be soft, and all you'll do is make a mess of them. Wait until the cool of the evening. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[bellweather]

Thanks for the suggestion. Over the weekend I trimmed one side of the garage (30') using a pair of shears...it was slow-going and required a lot of effort. I've got those dimension shingles and in some places it's 3 layers thick. I'm still considering the circ saw option. I'll try the hook blade first, just to see how well it works.

 

[johnday]

bell; Glad to help! Know what you mean about the dimensional shingles. Another thing about them, they make bad roofers look good!! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Don't think I'd have any other kind. LOL /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Tom_H]

I roofed all 3 of my buildings myself with dimensional shingles. The tar cuts more easily when warm and soft, but it also will rip and tear easily then too. As I have hot summer days but cold summer nights, the shingles could only be scored in the morning, BUT they would then snap a crisp line. I let the ends run wild on one of my out buildings. A friend who is a contractor told me to wait until it was cold and use the circular saw with abrasive or plywood blade to trim the end. I never got around to it, but this came from a guy I'd match against Tom Silva any day.

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The bozos who installed my roof left way too much shingle hanging over the eve, making it very difficult to clean gutters. I want to trim back the shingles a bit but am unsure of the best approach. I am considering using my Skill saw with an abrasive blade. I assume cutting by hand with some kind of a knife will be way too laborious. Any thoughts? Thanks )</font>
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They should have used drip edge.