roof trusses

[wroughtn_harv]

Miss Glenda just read our exchange. She wants me to be sure and let you know just how much I've enjoyed this place and to properly thank you.

I think I just did. But if I didn't, consider it done now. Thanx/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

The speed square gives you the bottom and top cuts via numbers. A five at the top is a five at the bottom.

I just cut some plates for a built in place open beam cedar trusses. The general contractor told me they were number five plumb cuts and that's all I needed from him.

BTW I have probably six or seven speed squares between the truck and the shop. They are evenly divided between six and twelve inch. I also have about half of them with the inside corner beveled for using with steel where you have a bead to keep it from fitting flush.

Stanley also makes a nice square for angle cutting. It has a floating arm that's held in place with a screw. You find your angle you prefer and then tighten it down and use it for all your cuts. If you hold it on one side it's the top cut and when you turn it around it's the seat cut. That one was invaluable when I stick built those pavilions out of large cedar.

Another thing is you'll see carpenters carry the small speed square in their pouch on their belt. And when they have to do a cut on a two by they will make their mark and then use the speed square as a guide for their circular saw. A perfect ninety degree cut every time.

I think the most important tool to making things is to always keep in mind that the difference between me and a professional is practice. I can do that.

 

[mikim]

A couple of points here - just my opinion 'course

1. the bigger speed squares are better when using for marking off angles. There is too much room for error with the smaller ones - get the biggest you can find to use when laying off - and use the small one in your pouch for handy checks
2. on the same point actually, since a framing square is bigger yet - it's even better for laying off - and you can get little round screw clamp thingys for clamping on the framing square for multiple markings (always the case)
3. Very few framing squares are "square" never use one for checking the square of anything. There is a little trick for finding a square square - but it's better just to assume that the one you're using isn't.
4. I've never found a speed square that wasn't square

I use a speed square for a saw guide and checking "square" and a framing square for laying off - either rafter cuts or stairs or whatever - Grandpa taught me how to use a framing square before there were speed squares and I guess I just prefer that - can't help but remember those sessions with him every time I'm carpentering

1 real pearl from him -- when using power tools on a job site - always set the things down on the ground between uses --- can't fall off and get broken from there!

mike

 

[Bird]

Hmm, I didn't even think about that, but naturally, my brothers and I all have (and use) the speed squares. Instead of the angles, I was thinking of the question in terms of where to put the vertical supports (or whatever you call them). I guess it just seems so simple when you've done a few that you forget how to tell anyone else how it's done./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif Another thing I've heard of people having trouble cutting out is stair stringers. That's another one that I don't think I could tell anyone how to do (could show them), but never could see how anyone would have a problem with it.

 

[MDNick]

One other thing not mentioned about truss building. If you are having to pull a permit, most likely you can not build your own trusses. They have to be built by a certified builder. As I understand it, you can stick build, or buy certified trusses. Now if you do not have to build to code, then making your own can be much cheaper. That is if you have the time. With the cost of lumber, your time off sets the cost benefit awfully quick for a $70 truss.

I was told less than $100 for a 30' scissor truss for my garage. Also need a 30' floor truss or engineered beam. About $43 for it (engineered I beam). I will be getting the final plan together in the next few weeks for a 30x40 2 story garage from 84 lumber. 2nd story will be workshop and storage. My house does not have a basement, so I am massively starved for storage space. 1472 sf house, 2400 sf garage. The way FATHER nature intended. We won't discuss what mother nature may have had in mind.

Nick

 

[rationalizer]

Nick,

I'm in the process of building my own barn (see the thread on "building a barn - how big?) and I am planning on building my own gambrel trusses - based on plans from "barnplans.com" (They are mentioned in several other threads). As you commented - I ran into an issue with my inspector here. He is very finicky. He asked for an engineer to sign them off so I'm getting the engineered truss calcs from Barnplans and hoping that will make him happy... I calculate that the trusses will cost about $65 each for a 32' clearspan gambrel truss. I'm not counting the nailer, compressor, and chop saw I need to get...but I need those anyway. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif Based on what I've seen - you really have to WANT to build them yourself to make it pay.

Bill

 

[MDNick]

Rationalizer,

For the gambrel truss, once you get it by the building inspector, it is MUCH cheaper to build it yourself. My quote from 84 lumber for a gambrel truss, 26' span was $450. Yes, that is correct, $450. If I could have gotten my own trusses past the inspector, I would have done it. Not much of an option here. You are NOT building your own truss. So while your inspector is finicky, at least they allow you to DIY. My original plan was a gambrel roof. But for a 36'x26', 84 lumber wanted $8500 or so for JUST THE TRUSSES. Sorry, no can do.

I wish you luck in your project right now. When I start mine in the next month or 2 I'll only be wishing myself luck, I'll need all I can get.

Nick

 

[rationalizer]

Nick,
I haven't gotten them approved yet... If I can't build my own I've got some alternative ways to get a gambrel roofline. There are two truss companies within 5 miles of my house (and more in the area) so I'm confident that I can do better then $450... Yikes. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Bill

 

[Anonymous Poster]

When the inspector says he wants an engineer to sign the plans he probably means he wants to see a signature and license # and not an engineered truss from plans. Here in Michigan most localities that follow the state building code are really tough about that. I would get a confirmation from the inspector that he will approve the truss plans before I put any more resources into the truss building. I have had my differences with inspectors but it's always easier in the long run to see it their way.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I may be the odd duck here (not a rare role for me, actually). /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif I happen to really like building trade inspectors. I've had good experiences wih them over the years. Maybe it's in my approach. I make it a point to seek them out early on and invite them out to show them what I'm planning on doing or wanting to accomplish and ask their input. Around here they are typically very experienced in their various areas of expertise, usually having worked in the field for decades.

My goal is two-fold. I genuinely want their advice and counsel. I can't count the number of times they've offered suggestions that improved my project. Most times it also saved me time, effort or money if not all three. I also want to befriend them and involve them in "our" project. It's much harder for an inspector to find a problem when he's been co-opted into the project and been a part of it from the beginning. I've never failed to pass an inspection first time through. One time there was a small problem (wrong gauge ground wire in meter box) and the inspector changed it himself then passed it. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[wroughtn_harv]

Morning Gary,

Sometimes it's the odd duck that gets the job done. I've always had good luck with the inspectors. I suspect it's been because I understand that the rules are there from experience but they are a place to start towards a better product.

The few times I've had problems have been with those that really wouldn't or couldn't think outside of the box. Or the previous contractors or homeowner had so pissed them off there was a problem before I got there.