Root Grapple

[HCJtractor]

IslandTractor's pictures say it all! That is pretty typical of what a grapple can do. Only thing he doesn't show is it's digging ability (like digging out that stump) Try doing all those things with anything else. Since following his advice several year ago, I could not be more happy. One note, if you are concerned about the "light duty" label, you can (or at least could when Markham was in business) get the same grapple but with 1/2 steel. I also had them add some more spacers to make the gaps smaller between tines. This beefs it up a little without adding too much weight. My tractor is 70 horse so I wanted al little more strength. Oh, get a 48" not anything wider. I think that is important.

 

[HCJtractor]

Steve

Your right on the price - they are by far theta cheapest and the products look good. Only downside is that they don't ship to Canada which surprises me when you consider the costs that people are paying for similar equipment here but it's easy enough to arrange and there's no duty.

Many thanks for advice and recommendation (going with the 60" grapple and a Stump Grapple)

Dunmovin

just curious as why you think you need both? I think the stump grapple would be good if you plan to transplant lots of plants or small trees, and for digging holes for planting, but if you are just using it for clearing and ripping up trees and undergrowth, I think the root grapple will work fine for that. You could save some money and not have to switch out implements. I would also say the 48" is better for digging, and will carry debris just as good as the 60" and for less money. Compare it to a shovel, when you dig, you use a standard shovel not a wide snow shovel. The narrow shovel penetrates better and is more precise, and allows the limited power of a tractor (as compared to a skid steer) to focus all the pressure on a smaller area. Also having only one hydraulic thumb on top simplifies things but is plenty to hold things in place, which is all it is used for. A wider grapple, while it may be great for scooping up and carrying debris, is not as good for digging as a narrower one, and that function is what I spend most of my time doing with a grapple. And for carryin debris, it works just fine. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[steve0413]

just curious as why you think you need both? I think the stump grapple would be good if you plan to transplant lots of plants or small trees, and for digging holes for planting, but if you are just using it for clearing and ripping up trees and undergrowth, I think the root grapple will work fine for that. You could save some money and not have to switch out implements. I would also say the 48" is better for digging, and will carry debris just as good as the 60" and for less money. Compare it to a shovel, when you dig, you use a standard shovel not a wide snow shovel. The narrow shovel penetrates better and is more precise, and allows the limited power of a tractor (as compared to a skid steer) to focus all the pressure on a smaller area. Also having only one hydraulic thumb on top simplifies things but is plenty to hold things in place, which is all it is used for. A wider grapple, while it may be great for scooping up and carrying debris, is not as good for digging as a narrower one, and that function is what I spend most of my time doing with a grapple. And for carryin debris, it works just fine. Just my 2 cents worth.

Even though I have the 60", I agree on the 48" being as good or better in some applications. In my case, the only times I'm glad I have the 60" is when I'm clearing areas with lots of vines and briar thickets. That extra width makes for a wider path and less scratching and tangling in the tractor. You'll be happy with either. Whoever said it was their favorite implement, I totally agree. They are also great for tending a burning brush pile. You can keep the pile nicely stacked without accidentally pushing dirt onto your fire like often happens while using a bucket.

 

[HCJtractor]

I would also advise if you use the grapple like I do (wading into thickets, pushing up trees, etc) to consider building a better grill guard for the front of your tractor. I have the standard Kubota guard but it offers no protection for that stray limp that will want to find a pathway to the grill area. I damaged the front of my tractor several times, bent the hood, damaged the headlights, and bent the grill assembly, before I finally made a guard from bar grating and angle iron. The problem is that grapples are so much fun to use that I get carried away pushing stuff down!

 

[Dunmovin]

I would also advise if you use the grapple like I do (wading into thickets, pushing up trees, etc) to consider building a better grill guard for the front of your tractor. I have the standard Kubota guard but it offers no protection for that stray limp that will want to find a pathway to the grill area. I damaged the front of my tractor several times, bent the hood, damaged the headlights, and bent the grill assembly, before I finally made a guard from bar grating and angle iron. The problem is that grapples are so much fun to use that I get carried away pushing stuff down!

The idea of a 48" does make a lot of sense so appreciate everyones advice. Quuick question - has anyone have experience with the Marshall Tree Saw (amazing piece of equipment for clearing smaller trees). Also to clear bush what's the best option flail, rotary or bush hog?

Thanks

Dunmovin

 

[IslandTractor]

Also to clear bush what's the best option flail, rotary or bush hog?

Specifically for clearing brush I would choose a brush hog (= bush hog, slasher, rotary). That is the lowest maintenance option. A flail will also work so long as it is a rough cut and not set up for finish mowing. The flail will leave a nicer cut but for backing into thick brush I'd rather have a brush hog.

Don't even think of using a finish mower for this task if that is what you meant by rotary cutter (in general, even though they are technically rotary cutters, people assume rotary = brush hog unless you specify finish rotary cutter)