ROPS Options?

[uppermich]

Took a look at your drawing. You'd be happier sawcutting farther back and put in a slope rather than a step. Also should allow a bit more for a margin of safety (dirt of the tires, snow, etc.) but either way, your garage door may need to be replaced with a taller model to take up that few inches on the bottom.


Pat

 

[gerard]

If you're having a problem squeezing the rops together have you ried either a decent sized pipe clamp or a farm jack? The farm jack would work pretty well if you got the one with the upper arm that acts as a clamp. They go for about $45 and go to 48inches wide/high

 

[Harv]

Gerard, Pat -
Thanks for the suggestions, but let me point out that the problem has been resolved by enlarging the door opening and bracing the door itself to give more vertical clearance. In case you missed it, this was all explained in my subsequent post called First Kodak Moments.

Gerard -
It wasn't squeezing that was required, but spreading. A simple car jack got the job done, but since the side bars are tapered (see the attachment on my recent post to this thread), the spreading had to be done in increments as the top section was raised/lowered.

Also, the amount of force required tells me that this kind of flexing just plain ain't a good idea. Introducing metal fatigue to that particular part of the tractor seems more than a little counter-productive.

My ROPS problems have been solved to my satisfaction now, but I hope my experience and this thread serve to save someone a headache in the future.

 

[glennmac]

Harv,

If we have a dozen years of higher education between us, you didn't graduate. I have nine.

Glenn

 

[Harv]

Glenn -

<font color=blue>If we have a dozen years of higher education between us, you didn't graduate. I have nine.</font color=blue>

Either that or it only took me a third as long.

Okay, so the total is 14 years -- it just makes my point about our reading ability all the worse. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif